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hawkati

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1 hour ago, oggy411 said:

Never owned an R1. I’m finding that it’s an itch I need to scratch and vids like this aren’t helping. 

i honestly had never even ridden one before this. The one journey i've done so far makes it promising. Hoping to get it mot'd very soon & will give a road rash report. 

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Interesting vid. You sound as though you could do Jackanory with that voice. What a peaceful part of the world you live in, just the sound of hooves and birdsong. 
#hidinginplainsight

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50 minutes ago, oggy411 said:

I’m looking for a near minter. I can probably afford a later one (crossplane) but I’d rather have a stunning earlier model than a later one needing work at the same money. What are the issues to look for? 

Nothing I could mention apart from the obvious electrical gremlins from an unloved example. Think they need valve check at 25k. I put a hyper pro rear suspension unit, fork refresh, dynojet to match the yoshi can and Gilles rear sets. Sold it to my mate for £1500 on mates rates. He made a good turn on it when he sold it. Bought it as a lightly crashed example, crashed it again but it was tough as old boots.

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56 minutes ago, oggy411 said:

Interesting vid. You sound as though you could do Jackanory with that voice. What a peaceful part of the world you live in, just the sound of hooves and birdsong. 
#hidinginplainsight

Not in vid - hulking great C17's rattling my roof tiles.

Love em!

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2 hours ago, oggy411 said:

I’m looking for a near minter. I can probably afford a later one (crossplane) but I’d rather have a stunning earlier model than a later one needing work at the same money. What are the issues to look for? 

The big white connector behind the LHS fairing panel is prone to giving trouble and just about everything on the bike seems to run through it, RHS switchgear can occasionally go if the killswitch has seen a lot of use, there's a coolant pipe behind the headers that's a bitch to get at that can rust through but that's pretty much all the issues I know of with the earlier R1's, The compression adjusters at the bottom of the forks can seize rendering them useless. Other than that use the PB set up guide from yonks ago and then tweak it to your liking (if you're feeling fancy K-Tech fork and rear shock springs are a worthwhile upgrade) Plenty of parts are interchangeable across the earlier bikes since they all use the same engine and frame combination with only minor tweaks here and there for user friendliness/better manners. I recommend spending a wee while nosing around over on www.YamahaR.co.uk to give you a good idea of most problems that folk have had. 

Edited by Supercoolnothing
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13 hours ago, oggy411 said:

I’m looking for a near minter. I can probably afford a later one (crossplane) but I’d rather have a stunning earlier model than a later one needing work at the same money. What are the issues to look for? 

Gearboxes and cracked liners, everything else is as per similar period sports bike (chav bodges, wiring connectors and seized bolts 😉)

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24 minutes ago, srad34 said:

Gearboxes and cracked liners, everything else is as per similar period sports bike (chav bodges, wiring connectors and seized bolts 😉)

Jaysus.....cracked liners? What causes that kind of fukkery?

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9 minutes ago, hawkati said:

Jaysus.....cracked liners? What causes that kind of fukkery?

It’s a known issue on the 4XV, 5JJ and 5EB R6 engines but it’s not as common as you think, but known issue in the R1 community innit. Not sure if it’s due to thrashing from cold or general wear and tear on these…hot starting issues and smoking when hot are an indicator…

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On 2/24/2024 at 8:58 AM, srad34 said:

It’s a known issue on the 4XV, 5JJ and 5EB R6 engines but it’s not as common as you think, but known issue in the R1 community innit. Not sure if it’s due to thrashing from cold or general wear and tear on these…hot starting issues and smoking when hot are an indicator…

Kates r6 is a 4XV . Everyone who enquired about it asked about liners , but hand on heart it's absolutely fine .

Wonder how many actually failed and under what circumstances. 

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11 minutes ago, cuban pete said:

Kates r6 is a 4XV . Everyone who enquired about it asked about liners , but hand on heart it's absolutely fine .

Wonder how many actually failed and under what circumstances. 

The R6 is a 5EB, 4XV is the R1. I have seen a fair few 5EB’s over the years usually end of life trackbikes or random low milers, less R1’s but they are usually in for gearboxes…

Edited by srad34
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Lots and lots of 5EB R6 liners went. Or will do soon. Probably more a track and club race thing. To the point that you can legally use a 5SL motor with most clubs as there are no 5EB bits left hardly.

Never heard of any R1 4xv liners going but the gearboxes do not like quickshifters. 3rd gear most common to go. Cost me 2nd in the Derby Phoenix Thunderbike Championship many moons ago :rolleyes: :( Fucking thing!!! :eusa_wall:

 

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18 hours ago, hawkati said:

Updatingness...

 

I think I might have a set of RHS R1 switchgear kicking around in the garage, if memory serves me right the wee locator pin on the inside is broken so it moves on the bar (which is why I bought a replacement set when my starter button stopped working instead of using that one). If you want I'll send it to you and you can see if that's why your bike's not firing off the button. 

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2 hours ago, srad34 said:

The R6 is a 5EB, 4XV is the R1. I have seen a fair few 5EB’s over the years usually end of life trackbikes or random low milers, less R1’s but they are usually in for gearboxes…

Ah . Never did understand yamaha designations 🤣

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5 hours ago, Supercoolnothing said:

I think I might have a set of RHS R1 switchgear kicking around in the garage, if memory serves me right the wee locator pin on the inside is broken so it moves on the bar (which is why I bought a replacement set when my starter button stopped working instead of using that one). If you want I'll send it to you and you can see if that's why your bike's not firing off the button. 

Hiya - that's genuinely appreciated. I swapped the r/h switchgear a while ago because I had no headlights, starter button or front brake light - all were bolloxed so it had to go. A long long search in far too many boxes found a replacement so that solved the headlights but the starter button issue remains. If it was just that I'd not give a fuck and I'd just lift the seat and plier the starter solenoid but now the fuel pump is awol as well whereas previously it was behaving. My head is thinking fuse on starter solenoid which may well act like a break in the killswitch circuit and cancel the pump as well. All other fuses are fine but I'd not checked ss fuse in the rush to pack everything away as rain stopped play.

I'll have a look tomorrow evening, otherwise Sunday is the next proper chance to go at it.

Meanwhile I did a bit of knacked fairing bits spraying. Chrome & b l a c k combo, and I've just got some vinyl paper so hoping to create some CR LDC goodness at work tomorrow when noone is looking...

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Today's rained out, I'm doing nightshifts and going straight to recording tomorrow so a bit of a wash out apart from some painting and applying of stikkorz. Kit parts would be proud. 

20240229_131813

 

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Two steps forwards, stagger sideways,  fall over, repeat...

Solved fuel pump issue - replacement starter assembly box wasn't firing pump relay so back on with the original. Much yay, but it would only run for a few seconds which allegedly is a sidestand disconnected issue- it contains a diode so you can't just unplug. Wierd, because it was fine before.

All was revealed- smoke from under tailpiece = stealth alarm well hidden until it decided to short out. Now gotta work out how to remove without killing the bike completely 

20240304_141148

 

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9 minutes ago, hawkati said:

Two steps forwards, stagger sideways,  fall over, repeat...

Solved fuel pump issue - replacement starter assembly box wasn't firing pump relay so back on with the original. Much yay, but it would only run for a few seconds which allegedly is a sidestand disconnected issue- it contains a diode so you can't just unplug. Wierd, because it was fine before.

All was revealed- smoke from under tailpiece = stealth alarm well hidden until it decided to short out. Now gotta work out how to remove without killing the bike completely 

20240304_141148

 

Yeah, had a meta alarm on mine and when I’d finished removing it neutral light refused to come on ever again. I would point blank never buy an older bike with an alarm fitted. Sorry for discovering your bike has the equivalent of metaclymidia.

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Fucking alarms :eusa_wall:

What used to amaze me was even on bikes with a pre fitted plug in the loom for an alarm, dealers somehow still managed to make a kunt of fitting them :lol: 

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On 2/29/2024 at 1:20 PM, hawkati said:

Today's rained out, I'm doing nightshifts and going straight to recording tomorrow so a bit of a wash out apart from some painting and applying of stikkorz. Kit parts would be proud. 

20240229_131813

 

'Silver Dream Racer', eh... You are David Essex, and I claim my '£5 off' Woolworths voucher.

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Yeah, nah - burnt out, stinks to hell and now I have the deep joy of sorting out which wires (they're all black) are connected to the kill switch & pump. Once reconnected I can rip the other wires out - indicators, tilt switches,  other bollocks.

20240304_163821

 

 

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Well,after an 18hour migraine onslaught a walk in the woods helped clear my head,then this gave me another headache 

So thus far & no further. Sorted front brakes instead. 

20240305_170428(0)

I've got some braided hoses that ought to fit - they've got to be betterer than 23 year old rubber doubries, right?

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The single thing, I appreciate about living down here is being able to work on bikes or cars that don't know what a Northern Winter is.

Near all the Transit tutorials I see on YouTube start with a fella saying: Roit now..  But any job under the car or around the engine sometimes,   will start with a liberal fast forwarded work out with a wire brush, followed by half a can of penetrant and the inevitable broken bolt, Applied heat,  angle grinder or hacksaw.  Or how to refurbish a brake caliper that's been on a coral reef for 2 years.  I've never given a brake caliper more than a basic clean in my life!

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1 hour ago, Johnno said:

The single thing, I appreciate about living down here is being able to work on bikes or cars that don't know what a Northern Winter is.

 

Can I have an "Amen Brother"?

Growing up in a summer rainfall region high up on the African Plateau, we had a 1974 MK3 Cortina 1.6, followed by a 1980, or 1981 Golf 1.3. neither car had a spot of corrosion on them, as solid as they day they were built.

Every old car I worked on was the same, regardless of age, or level of neglect.

Similarly, my first bike was a 17 year old Honda that had never seen love in its life. Underneath the muck and neglect, every fastener was as it left the factory.

The first time I lay under a car here in the UK was the 11 year old 1989 Fiesta I'd bought as a runaround before I had a job.

I was shocked at the state of stuff in there, but just assumed it was because of the age. When I bought my Mondeo six months later, a 2 or 3 year old car, it wasn't much better!

I've despised working on cars ever since.

The state of my current Focus just fills me with despair.😕

Now that I spend most days lying underneath trucks and vans, my first course of action is usually wire brush, then penetrant spray.

There has to be an alternative to raw salt in winter time.

Edited by jaycee
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2 minutes ago, jaycee said:

Can I have an "Amen Brother"?

I wasn't trying to be a smart arse.  I am as fascinated by the Northern Winter as much as anyone in Europe who wants to see the desert.

Europeans come here and one thing they remark about is wow, so many old cars.   To us an old car is like 50 year old, they're talking 2012!  

I waste hours watching shit about Alaska etc.  Timmy from Truck House Life has started that PowerStroke diesel in all kinds of what I thought was cold weather.  I'd think jeeez  Timmy I'd start the Honda generator and connect the block heater!

Then parked outside his friends house in Cold Foot, was it? Aptly named town.   It was minus 54 or some incomprehensive to me number and she won't go.  Tries everything,  eventually a friend comes by with a tilt trailer and he uses his winch to get his truck on.  The plastic near the hook for the winch cable is cracking.  The WIRES are disintegrating. If you take a shot every time he says: Not turning truck off again this trip you'll be on the floor in 15 minutes.

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Where I live the roads are covered in shite 4 months a year minimum. If I, or anyone else needs to work on my car or bikes, they get a good clean up first. 

The R1 looks shiney, but that's just the bodywork which is so good I'm shelving it for when I sell it. Alternative panels are going on so it'll be a charity tart.

Typical of what's underneath were the pathetic shite wanky blue anodised allen bolts holding the undertray. Six of them, three seized and already rounded off because they're Wensleydale. I filed them off and removed the undertray & tailpiece to get to the shite alarm. 

By late April this bike will be loving the heat of the portimao trip whether it likes it or not, and that'll set it up just fine for ldc.

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the old saying - if you can't beat them, arrange to have them beaten. Getting a sparky mate to have a go at safely removing the alarm and reconnecting, because despite everything i still quite like the bike and don't want to blow it up. @johnnymack63 would be quite right to assume from previous vids that i've passed that stage already....

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