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How To Change Your Own Tyres


gsxr renegade

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I can see that the lever has adjustable heights, cant see if the bead spade is adjustable tho, if it is then I think it would do the trick..

The lever pivot is adjustable for different heights and the spade bit is hinged, so I suppose that so long as it isn't miles away from directly above where the tyre meets the wheel it should work OK. Might give it a go. There's a few on there and you'll certainly get change out of £30 for one if it's 2nd hand.

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The lever pivot is adjustable for different heights and the spade bit is hinged, so I suppose that so long as it isn't miles away from directly above where the tyre meets the wheel it should work OK. Might give it a go. There's a few on there and you'll certainly get change out of £30 for one if it's 2nd hand.

30 quid is only a session down the pub, so no much to lose..

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This is all FTMFW, am currently making up a bead breaker and getting tyre levers and rim protectors myself.

One thing - the tutorial doesnt mention balancing... Isnt there a dot on the tyre that you align with the valve, or opposite the valve or summat? I believe that doing this accounts for most of the balancing requirements?

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This is all FTMFW, am currently making up a bead breaker and getting tyre levers and rim protectors myself.

One thing - the tutorial doesnt mention balancing... Isnt there a dot on the tyre that you align with the valve, or opposite the valve or summat? I believe that doing this accounts for most of the balancing requirements?

Yep. There should be a visible coloured dot on the tyre which supposedly marks the heavy point on the tyre. If you're worried about balancing (I'm not on this bike as i only use it for commuting) then you're supposed to line this dot up with the valve stem when fitting to make balancing easier.

I've previously balanced my tyres using a broom as the axle and balancing it on 2 chairs in the dining room with the sprocket and cush drive etc all fitted back to the wheel. With the valve stem at 3 o clock, let go of the wheel and see what happens (The vavle stem should rotate round to 6 o clock).

Attach weights to the wheel at what is now the 12 o clock position. Reset the valve to 3 o clock and repeat the process again until the valve stem stays at 3 o clock when you let go of the wheel, and your wheel/tyre should be balanced.

As a check, position the valve stem at a different point and give the wheel a light push. Note where the valve stem settles, then give it another gentle push. If the valve stem settles in a different position then you're good to go!

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^^^ as said, line the dot up to the valve stem( though i was always led to understand that the dot marks the lightest part of the tyre and not the heaviest), no voodoo is involved in getting the balance, plenty how to vids on the tube to show you...

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From Dunlop's website;

All Dunlop street tyres should be installed with the yellow balance dot at the valve. Wheels may be balanced with spoke nipple weights, lead wire or self-adhesive rim weights. Please consult the motorcycle manufacturer for approved wheel weights.

Doing the balancing itself doesnt worry me, I used to balance the rotating parts of large industrial clutches and brakes years ago - it was just the position of that dot that needed confirming for me.

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Most tyres are well balanced these days, if you leave the weights on your wheel it generally stays balanced. If it doesn't you'll feel like you are riding a jackhammer at a spot somewhere between about 60-90mph.

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