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Sump problems


jimbob

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Can anyone help!? I need advice on how to sort out cross threads in the sump on my Zephry750. The plug thread seems fine so i am assuming the problem is with the drain hole.

Thanks in advance, Jimbob.

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Got the same issue with a mates TL1000S. Would be interested to hear of anyone who has a reliable, oil tight and secure fix. New sump is not an option with vertically split cases....

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Weld the sump plug in, drill a hole and use a self-tapper!!! :eusa_dance:

Only kidding helicoil it as stated above!!

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You gotta remove the sump anyways--i'd be inclined to take it to an engineering firm and see about getting an insert put in.Just for the reason it's going to be repeatedly screwed in and out and will be a pain if it gets dislodged at anypoint.I know helicoils are strong and reliable-maybe im just paranoid!!!checkit out anyhows :eusa_whistle:

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You gotta remove the sump anyways--i'd be inclined to take it to an engineering firm and see about getting an insert put in.Just for the reason it's going to be repeatedly screwed in and out and will be a pain if it gets dislodged at anypoint.I know helicoils are strong and reliable-maybe im just paranoid!!!checkit out anyhows :lol:

I just had the sump on my bandit done with an insert, I have had trouble with helicoils in the past (my JMC swingarm uses them for the axle clamp) and had them replaced with timeserts - they are machined so they don't pull out like helicoils can.

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New sump is not an option with vertically split cases....

Which means I cannot remove the sump to get an insert fitted outside of the garage at home. Is it viable to fit an insert as a DIY job?

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Dunno about Timserts, but outing in a helicoil is doable without removing the sump. Personally I would be a bit concerned about swarf getting into the sump, but I suppose you could always chuck a gallon of cheap oil through the engine (without running it) to wash any swarf out of the sump. Anything else should be caught by the oil pickup strainer and oil filter.

Just what I was thinking. The motor has not been run for some years now, so I was planning on doing a full recommission job before putting the plugs back in and allowing it to fire.

Cheers Z.

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I'd have a look at Keysert, they're better as a permanent repair as timeserts like a blind hole to get a solid fix. Keyserts have self cutting, woodruff key like, locking devices, that self install when you put a bolt down them.

Link

Link should be self explanatory whwn you see pics.

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I'd have a look at Keysert, they're better as a permanent repair as timeserts like a blind hole to get a solid fix. Keyserts have self cutting, woodruff key like, locking devices, that self install when you put a bolt down them.

Link

Link should be self explanatory whwn you see pics.

And have the cachet of being recommended by an endurance team mechanic. Cool. :eusa_dance:

Thanks for the link, will explore it and let you know what the outcome is.

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I dont like the idea of hammering the locking tags down....asking for a hamfisted fool (such as me) to punch right through an ally sump.... Depends I suppose on the force required.

Sending a bolt of the right pitch down it allows the tabs to be set slowly!! If you've not got a suitable bolt. washer over the sump bolt to protect the sealing washer should see you right.

edit - would recommend setting it with Locktite hydralic sealant. And I'm not one of the monkeys, calling me a mechanic implies that I like rendering serviceable parts useless. Sadly I'm more involved with comissioning spares and the like. Mechanics have big hammers hidden in draws marked 'Precision Implements' and respond to problems with the sort of finesse that Zalalwe obviously feels at home with

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Dunno about Timserts, but outing in a helicoil is doable without removing the sump. Personally I would be a bit concerned about swarf getting into the sump, but I suppose you could always chuck a gallon of cheap oil through the engine (without running it) to wash any swarf out of the sump. Anything else should be caught by the oil pickup strainer and oil filter.

dump the oil, remove filler cap and get someone to blow an airline in the filler as you wind the helicoil tap in. coat the tap with some fresh grease first to catch the worst of it, and then flush it through afterwards

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Helicoil it?

Oh no no no no ,

A proper thread insert thingy. If you're up north, call moto and aero engineer , John McGrath in Kendal on 01539 722 569, tell him Mark Jackson reccomeded him and he'll sort you out for less than a night on the beer.

Mark

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If you need to use the bike before getting it sorted properly you could try one of these

Wow, it's an oil spillometre ................can you lock wire it ?

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How long do you reckon that will last??

Could be perm fix just replace it every couple of months :eusa_whistle:

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