Hendo Posted July 7, 2009 Report Share Posted July 7, 2009 Ive posted this up on the KTM forum aswell but Im asking you lot aswell as Im only expecting a load of numpty answers on there (if any)... Im going to do some home servicing on my bike. According to my bikes manual, my bike should have 10w/50 fully synthetic. I rang Triple D KTM who service my bike and they said they always put in 10w/40 semi synthetic. I need to buy some oil for it, so which one do I choose? Its done 11,000miles and the oil gets changed approx every 2500miles. Im thinking of just sticking 10w/40 in as thats what Ive used in my other bikes in the past (and its cheaper). Cheers guys Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomfoolery Posted July 7, 2009 Report Share Posted July 7, 2009 I always use cheap stuff of the right grade according to the manual (20/50 for the BM) and change both oil and filter bang on the quoted mileage (12k). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted July 7, 2009 Report Share Posted July 7, 2009 I'm no expert, but the most critical time for en engines oil to be working properly is when it's cold, and that the 10w part fo your multigrade spec, so both of your oils should be within similar standards at that part of the scale. The 50 or 40 bit is how thick they remain at the hotter end of their scale, once your engine's warmed up and you're getting a wriggle on. I honestly don't know which'd be better for your bike under these circumstances, and in big singles oil tends to be given a hard time too, so i'll leave that bit of the answer for somebody who knows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fran9r Posted July 7, 2009 Report Share Posted July 7, 2009 It's not worth the bother, bang in the right spec in. If KTM thought 10/40 was alright, they would spec that. They will appreciate the inconvenience of stocking another grade. The fact your dealer puts the wrong grade in says more about the dealer than anything. Edit to add -why is cold more critical? Engine damage can occur at any temperature with the wrong products in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hendo Posted July 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2009 Cheers guys. I guess Im going to have to fork out for the more expensive stuff from now on. The fact your dealer puts the wrong grade in says more about the dealer than anything. They really are a shit hot dealer, and know their beans, they are supermoto/offroad/big single biased and I have no reason not to trust them and will continue to use them (even although its a 100mile around trip). I appreciate your concern though. Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted July 7, 2009 Report Share Posted July 7, 2009 Not that I've measured it myself or anything, but something like 90% of engine wear happens when the engine's cold. Also, if you look at viscosity tables etc, the difference of a 10w over a 20w oil is pretty big when it's cold, where as the difference between a 40 and a 50 oil when it's warm is relatively slim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fran9r Posted July 7, 2009 Report Share Posted July 7, 2009 I think it's more to do with not having a big demand for 20/50, so it will be expensive for them. 10/40 delivered in a 205 litre drum and cheap as chips. Big margin. Yes engines wear more when they are cold...but I'd suggest those stats are measured with the right oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
originalracingsnake Posted July 7, 2009 Report Share Posted July 7, 2009 Why on earth is it being thrown out at 2.5k miles? That is madness and no advantage can be had by doing it, unless you happen to sell motor oils..... Fully synth will out last semi under the same operating conditions. If your rides are all short and lairy, and under extreme heat or cold, then I might be able to understand, but surely a modern oil, in a modern motor should last longer than 2.5k miles? Put in fully synth and change it at the specced intervals....... Spend the £40 you save on beer. Oh and 10W/40 is fine, check the manual for the rated viscosity under various ambient temps and times of years and you will see that 10W/50 has a wider operating range than 10W/40, but in the UK, it is rare to get VERY cold and VERY hot temps whilst the same oil is in the motor. Edited to add the viscosity bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hendo Posted July 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2009 Why on earth is it being thrown out at 2.5k miles... Its meant to be changed every 3000miles according to the manual, but I always get in done around 2500miles and get the valve clearences done for peace of mind. Highly strung motor these ya know lol . Right, Ive whittled it down to 10w50 semi or 10w/40 semi now...lol Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
originalracingsnake Posted July 7, 2009 Report Share Posted July 7, 2009 Its meant to be changed every 3000miles according to the manual, Right, Ive whittled it down to 10w50 semi or 10w/40 semi now...lol Andy Feckin ell! That must mean spending a huge amount on oil. I wince every time I bin 5 litres of fully synth, and the intervals on my K5 1000 are much longer than 3k! 10W/40 Semi will be fine. In fact, I'm nursing a semi right now. That is another story though. <shouts to wife> "Coming dear..............." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hendo Posted July 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2009 In fact, I'm nursing a semi right now... Oi! Not on my thread... Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jollygiant Posted July 7, 2009 Report Share Posted July 7, 2009 Halfrauds Semi-synth 10-40w For the last 50 kazillion years and never had a prob with any boike due oil probs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastfreddybikes Posted July 7, 2009 Report Share Posted July 7, 2009 if you are anything like me (paranoid gibbering worrier of the highest order) Stick with recommended oil of the manufacturer. Its worth the small tent pole smug in satisfaction you have done the right thing. Screw the kids dental work its only what your ktm deserves. Dont listen to the tight fisted oil molesterers out there ktm know best. The end.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted July 8, 2009 Report Share Posted July 8, 2009 I'd have to say that listening to advice from people who are relating things to multi cylinder engines when you're asking about a big single is perhaps not the best idea. The fact is that big singles need regular oil changes and will reward those who ignore it with some really nasty problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
intra Posted July 8, 2009 Report Share Posted July 8, 2009 I'd have to say that listening to advice from people who are relating things to multi cylinder engines when you're asking about a big single is perhaps not the best idea. The fact is that big singles need regular oil changes and will reward those who ignore it with some really nasty problems. +1 Treat a supermoto engine like a UJM-4 and it isn't going to last long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
originalracingsnake Posted July 8, 2009 Report Share Posted July 8, 2009 I'd have to say that listening to advice from people who are relating things to multi cylinder engines when you're asking about a big single is perhaps not the best idea. The fact is that big singles need regular oil changes and will reward those who ignore it with some really nasty problems. Did not spot it was a 625 single until I read the teeny tiny sig..... My CCM Rotax used to have oil every 3k too. Oil advice remains the same regardless of the fact I ride a GSX-R. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roadracer Posted July 8, 2009 Report Share Posted July 8, 2009 The warm viscosity grade will also be affected by ambient temperature, if your engine gets hot regularly or you ride in ambient temps above 30o celcius i wouldnt put 40 grade oil, stick with 50. 40 will be absolutely fine in everyday use in cooler temps, especially a good quality engine oil. Edited to add.... the amount of miles on the bike also affects oil choice, 11,000 miles may start to use a bit of oil(getting past the rings, etc) so i'd definitely put 10W50 even in cold temps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hendo Posted July 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2009 Ahh well. Threw caution to the wind and got myself some castrol 10w/40 semi synthetic. First time I have changed the oil on a dry sump system (oil in frame, bleeding the system etc). It seemed to go really well, well it didnt sieze in the 20miles I did According to the manual it is supposed to have around 2.0 litres in the whole system. I managed to get about 1.75litres out when I drained it . It never read being low on oil though. Anyhoo thanks for the help people. Expect a numpty question on valve clearences in the next couple of weeks as they are next on the list.... Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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