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Running total loss - battery endurance.


Damnthistinleg

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Giving serious thought to running the ZXR as total loss so I can get rid of the 30kg lorry alternator and simplify the wiring harness and ditch all the reg/rec shizzle.

On the basis of using a standard battery, say something like 10Ah in Li-ion form, has anyone had any practical experience of battery endurance from a full charge on a track/race bike doing 5 or 6 sessions a day?

If not, does anyone have a best guess of what the average running current of an ECU (probably Ignitech) and twin coils is likely to be at track pace so I can calculate it?

Ta in advance.

 

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1 hour ago, 2moto said:

Just stick it on charge between sessions, no worries. 10ah will easily do that. 

That's the easy answer but I'd like to run without charging if possible. I rarely bother with warmers these days so it would make life easier in a corner of a paddock or at somewhere like Cadwell.

I'm also of the the mind that 10Ah is likely more than enough but just wondered if anyone else was doing it with no issues before I make the harness up.

I'd be surprised if the ignition runs at more than an amp or two when running but obviously starting the engine is a consideration, albeit quite likely a fair bit less than running if it's only one short prod per session.

 

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Buy 3 batteries. 2 sessions per battery and use a Noco booster for when you start it up. Track days are expensive, batteries are cheap. When a battery goes off, they go off very quickly. Once they drop to about 10v you are in going to get misfires and it will eventually just cough splutter and stop. When I was using total loss I always put it on charge after 3 sessions, but that was on a 2 stroke. The worst I got was 2 and a bit sessions, best was a full 4 sessions.

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1 hour ago, bignige said:

I know 30k is mentioned but what will be the real weight saving?

It's also the loss of the parasitic drain of the alternator so weight and power bonus

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6 hours ago, bignige said:

I know 30k is mentioned but what will be the real weight saving?

The 30kg was a bit of a joke about KHI and how they used to do things. ;)

In fairness to Kawasaki, at least all the heavy shite they used to put on their sports bikes is easy to remove and/or replace. After getting all the crap off, I'm basically left with a very simple engine, gearbox and frame that is a fair bit lighter and more slender than even the SRAD that sits next to it.

 

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As others have said, put an anderson plug on it and run a slave for starting/warm up.   Li-ion batteries are great for this, but don't give any warning they're going flat due to the battery protection circuits.  they run absolutely fine, then drop below 10v and they shut down, where as an AGM battery will misfire as the volts drop, and give you enough warning to get back to the pits.

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Thank you for the information. I've been thinking about doing this on, my soon to be, '94 VFR track bike.

Edited by Tumz
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