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Blackbird oil pan and sealant


Nick.

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I'm currently in the process of replacing a rotted oil return line on a 98 blackbird, which entails removing the sump. (Pipe is chrome and runs from clutch crankcase lower into sump). Rather than use a gasket for the oil pan, Honda just use sealant from the factory...!  This is a nuisance.

What's the general consensus in sealant application in this situation, please?

I've got the pricey and recommended Threebond 1207b, and have basically put a narrow bead on the cleaned up sump mating face, then used a gloved finger to 'spread' it on the width of the mating face before offering it up to the lower crankcase and fighting the new oil pipe in.  

Looking at youtube videos, people seem to put thick beads on their mating faces when using any RTV and slap them together, but I am obviously concerned that this method would result in significant excess squeezing out and blocking strainers/oilways etc.  

Any wisdom about the correct way is greatly appreciated... thanks.

 

Edited by Nick.
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I think you have the right idea.

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I like to make sure everything is stupidly clean and also that nothing has warped. Triumph triple sumps/pans have an annoying habit of warping. As far as bead size and coverage goes, if it squeezes out of the joint in a big blob when the joint is done up then it’s too much. Last thing you want is a blob of goop inside your engine.

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17 hours ago, Nick. said:

I've got the pricey and recommended Threebond 1207b, and have basically put a narrow bead on the cleaned up sump mating face, then used a gloved finger to 'spread' it on the width of the mating face before offering it up to the lower crankcase and fighting the new oil pipe in.  

Basically this.  TB1207 is great stuff in my experience and less is more, IYSWIM as long as there's enough.

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When we built getrag transmissions we put the pan sealant on with a roller, you only need a tiny amount, look at most gaskets and they’re maybe 2mm thick or less and get compressed:

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