Suzuki TLR

[Gixxerthou]

Joe V's Airbox and Base Plate Modifications

AIRBOX

I have broken down the air box modification into 2 sections, the lid, and the

base plate. Below are listed the steps to modify the lid:

1. Remove the air box lid

2. Turn the lid upside down

3. You will see the 2 air intake valves. These will be removed.

4. Slide the actuator rods out of the flappers (indicated in lid-1 jpeg)

5. Turn the lid over and locate the intake air control valve actuators

(indicated in lid-2 jpeg)

6. Turn the actuators and remove from the air box lid .

7. Take one of the vacuum lines that run to the actuators and form a loop to the

"t" fitting in the vacuum line.

8. Now all that is left to do to the lid is to seal the holes left by the vacuum

actuators. On the bike that I have done, I use fiberglass disks, washers really,

with gasket maker, and place one disk on the inside of the opening and one disk

on the outside of the opening and secure with a 1/4" bolt and self-locking nut.

It is important to seal these openings.

BASEPLATE

Ok guys here are the directions for the modification of the base plate. It is

very simple to do. You will require a rotary tool with a cutting bit.

1. Remove the air filter (illustrated in figure 1)

2. Remove the base plate by removing the screws (indicated in figure-2)

3. Cut away the material outlines in yellow in figures 3 and 4. Be careful not

to cut the towers that the filter bolts to. Also if you turn the base plate up

side down you will see that there is a lip that seals to the bottom of the base

plate, be careful not to cut this.

4. Reinstall the base plate and filter. Reinstall the air box lid. Check the TPS

adjustment. Re-map to +5 +10 +5 and you are done. You should now be able to

reach red line in 6th gear

As I indicated in my first letter, this modification has been done by others, it

is nothing new or exciting. It does however work! It is my belief that most

people underestimate the effect that ram air has on a bike. Once again, a fellow

I know who is employed by Yosh and the fellow running the dyno at the sportbike

rally, both indicated that ram air can increase hp by 10%. I tend to believe

this as the end result has to be greater than the 2 or 3 hp claimed by some.

Running with the air box lid off only produces hp in the mid range and detracts

from the top end. This modification along with the re-map produces healthy

increases in the mid range as well as on the top end. Good luck.

Joe

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Okay, I went through Joe's procedure and took some pictures along the way. Hope this helps you all understand it even better. I haven't remapped my bike yet, but plan too. It seems to be running great without it for now, but I'm sure I could see an improvement in HP when I do.

Greg

The first step is to remove the airbox lid and take off the flappers and valve actuators.

The next phase is to plug the actuator holes. I sandwiched the hole in the lid with two washers, a bolt and locking nut. Also, using some sealant to ensure it's airtight.

[Gixxerthou]

continued:

The pictures below show the airbox without the baseplate. As you can see the holes where the ram air enters are evident. I modified the baseplate to open these holes up. Joe's instructions are modifying the baseplate even more and removing the "wings" remaining on the plate, with the exception of the screw holes. I don't know there is an obvious benefit to doing this as the ram air will not enter through there anyway. If you study the picture, you'll see what I mean.

The next set of pictures show the airbox with the modified baseplate and filter installed. It also shows you the lid installed again. Of course the remaining step was to loop the hose at the T piece.

End

Copyright The Thumperzone 2008

[Erskimo]

i had a TL-R once, made it better than a 998R , looking back it would have been cheaper to get the 998R....anyway, if you want a bit more OOOMMPh & you have a full system on, there is a black wire comming out of the ECU (27 if i remember) it will let the engine over rev 1000 rpm , TL-Rs tachos are a little on the over read side

[DougW]

Cycle world did a proper test on the TLR airbox with pressure transducer in the airbox and a proper 150 mph ish wind source and concluded that the TLR airbox with ram air definitely worked, it didn't actually raise the pressure in the box much above atmospheric but it did stop the pronounced pressure drop they saw with the lid off. Somewhere I have the article but its in "Deep Tidy" as the mrs DougW got hold of it

So IMO if you want top end speed, lid on. Don`t go much above 100, lid off.

[DougW]

Standard Reg/Regulator is crap. Rubbish "Shunt" type and runs really hot.

Mine let battery go flat after prolonged slow riding during "The ride to the wall". 

All connections checked and no sign of corrosion. 

After battery fully charged only getting 13.9 V at tick over , dropping to 13.5 at 5000 RPM. Mates low mileage TLR exactly same.

Electrex world reg/regulator fitted, 14.4 volt at tickover and 5000 RPM, drops to 14.38 with brake lights on.

 

[TLRS]

Wouldn't a used, recent mosfet r/r from a recent bike do the same? That said, I just stuck on an brand spanking new Electrex too

[DougW]

On 08/10/2016 at 4:28 PM, TLRS said:

Wouldn't a used, recent mosfet r/r from a recent bike do the same? That said, I just stuck on an brand spanking new Electrex too

Yes it would. 

Having looked at the price of a replacement ECU and clockset, I went for the Electrex world one as a safe option. And I got the unusual chance to buy something British that`s hopefully top quality.

Also wiring the new regulator direct to battery (30A fuse as close to battery as possible) as suggested in some other forums, original wires probably just about up to the job but any corrosion in the original connectors and its problem time again.