Suzuki TLS/TLR

[Gixxerthou]

Tools you need:-Socket set, Pliers, Screwdrivers, Hammer, Locktite,Jizer or Gunk,Insulating tape, fresh coolant.

Parts required:-Mechanical seal, Impeller driveshaft oil seal, Ceramic impeller seal, Clutch casing gasket

If you ever find your bike is leaving coolant or oil stains on the floor when its parked up this item is for you.

If you look into your fairing on the right hand side whilst sat on the bike you'll see your coolant reservoir. If you notice that the level is decreasing slowly over time it's a good bet that the mechanical seal in your clutch casing has failed. Other signs of this failure are a small stain down the front of your clutch cover casing from a tiny hole. This is called the 'Tell-tale' hole and is an indicator of failure of your mechanical seal and oil seal on your water pump drive shaft.

Taking off the right hand fairing will help but is not essential for the TLS. TLR owners will have to remove the right hand plastic.

Remove the reservoir cap, radiator cap and the lower drain plug from the water pump housing and drain the coolant from the reservoir into a bucket for disposal. Undo the banjo bolt holding the coolant pipe on and free it from the pump housing. Then undo the water pump cover and remove it gently, taking care not to damage the rubber seal underneath (I didn't have to replace mine). Removal of the clutch inspection cover isn't essential, I just wanted a nosey around first.

Undo the bolt on the impeller face and remove it.

Remove the clutch casing by undoing all the surrounding bolts, lay them out somewhere safe in the same pattern as they were removed if your forgetful as they are varying lengths.

Remove the oil seal from the back of the clutch casing after giving the casing a good degreasing with your chosen fluid. Discard the seal it as you will be replacing this part.

With the oil seal removed get an appropriately sized socket, drop it into the orafice and using a hammer tap out the mechanical seal from behind. make sure the clutch cover is on something nice and soft (I used a towel) and there is enough room for the mechanical seal to drop out the other side underneath. Bin the mechanical seal.

The replacement seal parts are shown above. The Ceramic seal fits into the back of the impeller. There is also a small rubber seal that fits onto the back of the impeller fixing bolt (Not shown).

Put Locktite or similar product around the new mechanical seal. Seat it squarely into the orafice.

Place the clutch casing on a flat soft surface to avoid damaging it. Using a 22mm socket place on mechanical seal gently tap it home. Use a rag and wipe off any Locktite that's smeared anywhere. Turn the casing over and push the new oil seal into place.

To prevent any leakages from your clutch casing always fit a new gasket.

With the new seals installed in the clutch casing and impeller, get some insulating tape and wrap around the top of the water pump drive shaft 2 or 3 times. Leave a little of the tape loose at the top so you can pull it off once the casing is back in place. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT as failing to do so may damage your new seals when refitting. See below.

With the new gasket on the locating dowels, gently fit the clutch casing back on.

Remove the tape from the end of the drive shaft and refit the impeller (Don't forget the small rubber seal for the bolt).

Tighten the clutch casing bolts in a cross diagonal manner until there all tight, but don't overdo it.

Replace the water pump housing and clutch inspection cover (If removed). Loosen the drain plugs in the housing. Re-attach the coolant pipe, and, using a funnel, refill the radiator. Tighten the bottom drain bolt in the pump housing when the coolant starts to escape and then the top one when the air as escaped. Fill the radiator and coolant reservoir right up and refit the radiator cap.

Before fixing the plastic back on I recommend starting the bike up and to leave it running for a while if all seems fine. Leave to cool down and top up the coolant reservoir until all the air is out of the system. When the bike is cool, run your finger over the tell tale hole and check for coolant or oil. I recommend inserting a cotton bud inside it and checking the end. If you have only a very slight leak on the seal the heat from the engine will normally evaporate any escaping liquid, so be very rigorous before refitting all the plastic and tightening it all up.

Copyright The Thumperzone 2008