Pro bolt engine kit

[agressor]

Hey Guys, wnat to buy pro bolt engine kit but don't know what material I should choose.

Race spec bolts but what should I go; aluminium or stainless steel?

 

Regards

Tom

[Superdunc]

Stainless.

[dansp1]

Aluminuim, cheaper and a good weight saving 

[bignige]

I like their polished stainless just waiting for the next voucher code. 

😁

[agressor]

Lady from Pro-bolt told me that stainless is more durable than aluminium. However steel is more expensive that why Im asking.

[dansp1]

only really a problem if you ride on salted roads

[Superdunc]

And the alloy heads round off after the tightening sequences. For the negligible weight saving over reliability  I'd go stainless every time. 

[dansp1]

i have never rounded them off, you are only talking  titchy torque settings and they are 50% lighter saved about half a kilo doing all the engine cases on the sp!

[agressor]

Damn, I see not an easy choice

[hawkati]

24 minutes ago, agressor said:

Damn, I see not an easy choice

Buy stainless,  have a poo before you ride. 😛

[agressor]

58 minutes ago, hawkati said:

Buy stainless,  have a poo before you ride. 😛

Some serious advices starting to come...

[marvin]

What's the forum opinion on Ti engine bolt kits? 

[agressor]

10 minutes ago, marvin said:

What's the forum opinion on Ti engine bolt kits? 

I guess Ti is best possible option, high strength and low weight.

[dansp1]

Use ti where you need the strength if you want to, but if you’re looking for weight savings alloy is lighter and cheaper 

If it’s about aesthetics please yourself, it’s your bike 

[Mark/Foggy]

Don't buy cap heads of anything if you can avoid it. Allen keys wear out the socket quickly because the fit is usually poor and there is always a temptation to used ball end drivers which will fuck them for fun.. Better to invest in 1/4 drive sockets that go down to tiny sizes and a corresponding torque wrench if you can afford it. Also Stainless cap heads start to look manky after a few years if you use steel tools in them, they start to rust a little inside the sockets. you can get around this by using Stainless steel keys to stop the corrosion propogation.

Flanged hex Ti for the win everytime with me. Save the  original fasteners that you replace in sealed bags with a little wd40 in them and replace the Ti with factory when you sell the bike. Also, don't buy from Probolt, people like RaceTi spend less on marketing and usually work out cheaper.

Just to add, in the Endurance world I think that it's common that some of the engine case bolts have been more successful than many of the riders, they have been on so many more bikes. Also, if they fall off, they are less annoying, because you never see them again. They don't end up in your pit box crying about how close they were to immortality.

[bignige]

It's the convenience of Probolt for their specific bike kits. 

Stainless /titanium if it's a keeper. 

👍

[agressor]

Thanks Guys for all answers.

[Evilchicken0]

Clean the originals with a wire brush and paint the heads 

[Mark/Foggy]

This would be particularly good if you know some old fashioned Chavs that you can borrow some exciting nail varnish off. I think that the mutlicoloured appeal would be very '80's.

And I suspect that the aesthetics would be on a par with  a Chav that has had every tool in the universe through it in 30 years.