Fork off

[bignige]

Who do you recommend for fork rebuilds? 

I want to bypass the electronic anti dive on this 1988 gsxr1100j. 

Might need new stanchions too. 

Can I get the sliders back to factory finish? And paint/coat the anti dive units? 

Any one stop suspension specialist you'd recommend? 

Cheers 

[ssray]

Depending on where you are in the country? Near me revs of Halesowen 

[trackdaybob]

47 minutes ago, bignige said:

Who do you recommend for fork rebuilds? 

@Sideshow Pob

[Sideshow Pob]

34 minutes ago, trackdaybob said:

@Sideshow Pob

Hello

[426hemi]

34 minutes ago, ssray said:

Depending on where you are in the country? Near me revs of Halesowen 

I’ve used revs and he does a good job, also used Kais for my 1100 forks and they did a great job as well.

[Jenny Pryde]

It's not electronic and you need   blanking plates to stop oil entering the anti-dive unit.

1.  
2. First, unbolt the short antidive brakelines. Now use the shorter banjo bolt at the antidive unit, to join the brake line to your brake caliper. That was the easy bit. (Obviously you will need to bleed the air out of your brake system, clean up spilt brake fluid, etc.)
3. Now unbolt and remove the antidive units. Put trays under each fork because now the fork oil is going to come flowing out of each fork. Removing the small drain screw on each fork will help at this point. (If you really want to speed up the draining of the fork oil, remove the caps at the top of the forks. But only do one at a time, otherwise you'll lose all fork spring pressure and your bike will end up diving forwards toward the floor... a potential disaster.)
4. Now the fun part: fabrication! Yes folks, it's time to make up a pair of square blanking plates. I used some 1/4" aluminium I had lying around. Place your old antidive unit on the aluminium plate, and trace around the mating surface with a scriber. Now get your hacksaw, files, disc grinder — whatever you want to you use — and cut out and finalise the shape of the blanking plates. Drill the two mounting holes for each blanking plate, using a 6.5mm drill (I'd be lost without my drill press; I couldn't drill a straight hole without it! If you don't have one, go get one; you won't regret it).
5. You must cut a channel in the rear of the blanking plate where it will join the fork, because otherwise the fork oil won't be able to travel through, and you'll lock your front forks solid. And probably burst the fork seals the first bump you hit! (Now that would be messy.) I cut a channel by using a 6mm drill and drilling a row of overlapping holes, as in the pic below. Using the depth gauge on the drill press ensured that I didn't go too far. 

   

6. Well, barring a bit of smoothing off the edges with a small file, that's the blanking plates made up.
7. Clean away any oil residue on the forks, smudge a tiny amount of silicone goop on the rear of your nice new blanking plates, and bolt them to the front of the forks using the original bolts.
8. Put fresh fork oil in the forks. I like to use 20W as the fork internals get a bit worn after 30 years, so thicker oil gets the damping back up to scratch.
9. You're done

https://www.theflyingbanana.com/antidive.htm

Not an 1100J but the principle is the same.

I've used Maxton and Reactive Suspension. Both do a great job.

 

Edited May 10, 2020 by Jenny Pryde

[Mark/Foggy]

Mr Skip also does a permanent job on this sort of thing.

 

[bignige]

2 minutes ago, Mark/Foggy said:

Mr Skip also does a permanent job on this sort of thing.

 

Haven't you got your own Suzuki to build? 

😁

[Mark/Foggy]

I would Nige, but I keep finding magic that will be more shiny.,,,

Junk the springs, fit some 9's and blank the tings at the bottom, If you want to keep the looks, just blank with a 1mm piece of ally

I have no doubt that you can get some really good money to dissolve into those, but in reality, just refresh them without the bullshit.

[Superdunc]

Gareth at Reactive does some good stuff with these forks. 

[Alex_H]

Wouldn't racing lines rob do it for you seen as he's only down the road? Then slightly further down the road is ktech? 

[dab33]

6 hours ago, Alex_H said:

Wouldn't racing lines rob do it for you seen as he's only down the road? Then slightly further down the road is ktech? 

Got to be worth an ask? Decent bloke to.

[bignige]

On 5/11/2020 at 6:49 PM, Superdunc said:

Gareth at Reactive does some good stuff with these forks. 

Hi, I'm wondering what service you offer regarding the above forks. I
> would like to bypass the electronic antidive but keep it for cosmetic
> purposes.
> I would like for them to look factory fresh, there is slight pitting
> on the stanchions so I was curious if you can rechrome or replace with
> new.
> Maybe powder coat the sliders.
> Either way I'm looking for a one stop shop for my refurbished forks
> and I'm interested in your recommendations.

------

Hi Nigel,

Sorry, we don't do that kind of work.

All the best,
Gareth.
😁😁😁😁

[Superdunc]

Just now, bignige said:

Hi, I'm wondering what service you offer regarding the above forks. I
> would like to bypass the electronic antidive but keep it for cosmetic
> purposes.
> I would like for them to look factory fresh, there is slight pitting
> on the stanchions so I was curious if you can rechrome or replace with
> new.
> Maybe powder coat the sliders.
> Either way I'm looking for a one stop shop for my refurbished forks
> and I'm interested in your recommendations.

------

Hi Nigel,

Sorry, we don't do that kind of work.

All the best,
Gareth.
😁😁😁😁

Bugger.  He did some for a mate's slabbie forks, fitted to a gs1000 race bike, a few years back.

[Mark/Foggy]

7 hours ago, bignige said:

Hi, I'm wondering what service you offer regarding the above forks. I
> would like to bypass the electronic antidive but keep it for cosmetic
> purposes.
> I would like for them to look factory fresh, there is slight pitting
> on the stanchions so I was curious if you can rechrome or replace with
> new.
> Maybe powder coat the sliders.
> Either way I'm looking for a one stop shop for my refurbished forks
> and I'm interested in your recommendations.

------

Hi Nigel,

Sorry, we don't do that kind of work.

All the best,
Gareth.
😁😁😁😁

In fairness, I'm thinking that he means that he doesn't do cosmetic restoration work.

[bignige]

6 minutes ago, Mark/Foggy said:

In fairness, I'm thinking that he means that he doesn't do cosmetic restoration work.

And I quote

It used to be the kind of thing we did, but too many subcontractors let
me down. You'd be angry at me because it was taking so long, I'd be
angry at them...I'm too old to be piggy in the middle.

[Mark/Foggy]

Straight talking, got to respect that.

[Husky]

Could you get the stanchions and sliders done ? Then ask him if he'd do the bypass and fork rebuild.

[bignige]

12 minutes ago, Husky said:

Could you get the stanchions and sliders done ? Then ask him if he'd do the bypass and fork rebuild.

I hear you but if he doesn't want my money I can't be bothered with him. 

Shame coz the Blackbird I've got has his forks. 

[Husky]

11 minutes ago, bignige said:

I hear you but if he doesn't want my money I can't be bothered with him. 

Shame coz the Blackbird I've got has his forks. 

Fair enough. I can see your point there.

[kja.busa]

ABE for stanchions, tweaking forks try Mark at MH racing.com

[blow_away]

+1 for MH Racing. 

If you want to strip the forks yourself, then I'd recommend Reality Motorworks for powder coating.