DougW Posted May 5, 2020 Report Share Posted May 5, 2020 (edited) Currently trying to press the LC swing arm bolt out, got a sash clamp on it, soaked in GT85 and occasional prompts with a lump hammer.I don`t think its going anywhere. (Been through this before with the DT175MX so know the procedure !)Before I get medieval on it and drill it out, has anyone got the dimensions for the swing arm bolt ?In an ideal world I would buy the nice shiney stainless bolt from Norbo, but in the present climate I am trying to progress the less expensive bits of the rebuild, as not sure what is happening on the job front after this month.As I have a lathe and am currently working from home, I have more time than usual, so should really make one ( I usually work away in the week) .Cheers, hope everyone staying safe,Doug Edited May 5, 2020 by DougW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunderbolt Posted May 5, 2020 Report Share Posted May 5, 2020 I have had great success with Crack It Freeze spray https://www.screwfix.com/p/arctic-products-crack-it-shock-release-spray-400ml/83415?kpid=83415&ds_kid=92700052232975705&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1249404&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1247848&ds_rl=1248151&gclid=Cj0KCQjwncT1BRDhARIsAOQF9LlR4wsCTYzkP_PBG9Ov4K8ZtuRLi9WIWHGUtv9nfM33FLElBKTkwOkaAnSrEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougW Posted May 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2020 (edited) In their wisdom Yamaha run the swingarm bolt through a close fitting steel tube for most of the width of the swingarm, on mine this is inside an ally JMC swingarm . Once corrosion starts between the bolt and the sleeve, its got 190mm of close fit to corrode together. Probably why the 82 LC`s got grease nipples. If its like the rest of the bike there will be no grease to speak of in there. Edited May 5, 2020 by DougW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunderbolt Posted May 6, 2020 Report Share Posted May 6, 2020 The crack it spray can be enough just to open the tiniest of gaps which it can then penetrate or use stuff like DeBlock. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin77 Posted May 6, 2020 Report Share Posted May 6, 2020 I might have a good spindle from 2Smoke's LC going spare if you need one? Once you got the old one out of course.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougW Posted May 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2020 9 minutes ago, Martin77 said: I might have a good spindle from 2Smoke's LC going spare if you need one? Once you got the old one out of course.. That would be brilliant thanks ! PM`d you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
426hemi Posted May 6, 2020 Report Share Posted May 6, 2020 Had this on my mate’s lc 20 odd years ago when he bought a shitter, we couldn’t get the swingarm out of the frame and had to cut the pivot bolt in between the frame and swingarm, once out we soaked it for a couple of days but it still wouldn’t move and got it in a 50 ton press in the end and I didn’t think that was going to move it until the loudest bang and the bolt taking a chunk out of the floor. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougW Posted May 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 (edited) Bolt out, new taper bearings fitted , arm back in ( thanks again Martin77) . Next Question The JMC arm has no centre spacer, tightening the arm bolt preloads the taper bearings. Not keen on this design, to me its taken away some of the rigidity the original sleeve clamped between the frame rails gave, but its what I've got on this bike. How tight would be appropriate to tighten the bolt/nut and preload the bearings? It looks like the original had been torqued right up wrecking the bearings ! Edited May 16, 2020 by DougW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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