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Question for Rattle can painting experts or any painting experts.


ricey3

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I'm repainting a couple of small black bits on my bike. The fairing v piece which was pretty stone chipped and the small section on the rear tail unit that has the pillion seat lock on it. It had a horrible scratch on it. 

Anyway I sanded them both back, got rid of the chips and scratches  and gave them three coats of the correct primer, let it dry overnight and then flatted it back with some 800. Looked and felt really smooth. 

I then gave it 3 coats of black. I left 20mins between each coat, but think I might of been a bit close and perhaps put them on a bit heavy. I have a light orange peel effect to it that I think will look a load of poo if I just laquer over it. 

So my question:

Do I flat it back with some 1200 and hope there is enough thickness of top coat to not need any more black and then laquer or should I flat it back and add another few fine layers of black? I was never really expecting to flat back the black. Wondering if it's always going to be required to get a mint finish with rattle cans?

2020-05-04_10-33-58

 

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well the fella who supplied the paint says laquer it and it will be good. I just wanted an opinion of someone who actually does spraying as I want it bang on. 

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well i took my own advice. Flatted it back with 1200 and added a couple more coats of black. TBH it looked the same again so went for the laquer. It looks a load of shite. Laquer came out the can like a hissing snake.

I'll have another crack, think the tins need warming up a bit. Now the laquer had dried its actually a lot better but still not something id put on the bike. 

Edited by ricey3
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Flat it back with 1200.

Shake rattle ran for two minutes, put tin in warm water, shake can again for two minutes.

Add two or three thin coats of black, then flat it again with 2000.

Polish.

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32 minutes ago, ricey3 said:

well i took my own advice. Flatted it back with 1200 and added a couple more coats of black. TBH it looked the same again so went for the laquer. It looks a load of shite. Laquer came out the can like a hissing snake.

I'll have another crack, think the tins need warming up a bit. Now the laquer had dried its actually a lot better but still not something id put on the bike. 

Get the black as smooth as you can, but then take your time with the lacquer, this is the bit that'll make or break a finish, assuming that the colour coat underneath isn't really shit. Basically, with the colour you don't need loads, just enough to get the surface all one shade, then you go on to the lacquer.

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Only a painted a few times, so take this advice for what is worth.

 

I have found that most times when  being very careful to avoid runs, makes you spray a bit more apprehensively.

Judging by the photos, I would guess the paint hit the surface almost dry.

Try getting a bit more close and spray a bit more on the heavy side. Also shake well before spraying and dip the can in hot water as previously mentioned.

 

Paint and lacquer for that matter, looks a bit spotty when just applied, but after a few seconds it must transform into a glossy surface. If it does not, it means that you have applied it too "dry" and it do s not have time to level itself out, if that makes any sense.

 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Jenny Pryde said:

Flat it back with 1200.

Shake rattle ran for two minutes, put tin in warm water, shake can again for two minutes.

Add two or three thin coats of black, then flat it again with 2000.

Polish.

This

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Watched my gpz being painted and the amount of labour involved for a quality job is high,the finished paint was flatted back and I think 4 coats of lacquer was applied and flattened in between each coat and the last coat then mopped and polished.

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If you are intent on using rattle cans have a look for a spray handle that clips onto the can. They help a lot with the control.  Everything above is all good advice, remember you need it to actually wet the surface. first coat can go on on dry and powdery, next time you want it to wet a bit and run the third coat a little sooner so that it sort of floods into that second wetish coating.

Oh and get some panel wipes they decontaminate between coats if you have to run over it again with wet and dry. That orange peel effect can be a sign of silicon floating about trying to destroy your work. You might get better results outside rather than working in an inside environment where you've been working on the bike previously.

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Flat back with 800 wet 

I drop 3 thin coats and 1 full coat allow flash over time between them (10mins ?), then 20mins. Then 2 thin and 1 full lacquer, let it dry over night. 

800 wet, 1200 wet ... G10, G3, scratch removal compounds  

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The paint needs to go on wetter. first coat dry, you'll get about 50% coverage, leave for 2-3 mins then second coat a bit heavier, then just keep adding light coats no waiting between, untill you get that wet glossy look.

The first coat gives you a key once you have that you can be more liberal. 

If you want to laquer it, leave the colour coat 24hrs then sand with  1200 and lots of soap an water to get rid of any orange peel.  Degrease and use the same technique to laquer.

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