DAMO666 Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 As the title suggests recently bought an FZR1000 non-runner, Flushed the fuel tank, thoroughly cleaned the carbs, ignition and plugs ok.Will only start from cold by cranking from a van battery and squirting half a can of easy start straight down the carbs.Once warm starts straight away.Leave overnight and its out with the big battery and easy start again. I'm thinking valve clearances now, anyone offer anything else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacemonkey Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 As the title suggests recently bought an FZR1000 non-runner, Flushed the fuel tank, thoroughly cleaned the carbs, ignition and plugs ok.Will only start from cold by cranking from a van battery and squirting half a can of easy start straight down the carbs.Once warm starts straight away.Leave overnight and its out with the big battery and easy start again. I'm thinking valve clearances now, anyone offer anything else? If valve clearances were too tight then you'd get problems with a hot motor, not with a cold motor. No one ever seems to have problems with loose valve clearances except it gets noisier... It sounds more like poor sealing at the rings or valve seats at worst, blocked pilot jets at best. Get a leak down test done ASAP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
addiction269 Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 someone i know had the same problem recently on the fzr 600, turned out to be a burnt out fuel pump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 I'd be interested in the outcome of this as it's pretty much the same symptoms as my Katana. I'm going to be looking along completely different lines to you though; I'm blaming the starter motor and/or solenoid being weak needing a shed load of current to do their job properly. Having said that, mine might not be the same as yours in that it turns over really slowly, both hot and cold, it's just that it starts at about 700rpm when it's warmer, and won't when it's cold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAMO666 Posted April 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2009 I'm confident the fuel pump is ok, I've had the pipe to the carbs off and its pumping plenty of petrol through and the float bowls are always full.I mentioned the valve clearances because i've had experience of diesel engines not starting from cold due to tight clearances resulting in a loss of compression and not starting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacemonkey Posted April 22, 2009 Report Share Posted April 22, 2009 I'm confident the fuel pump is ok, I've had the pipe to the carbs off and its pumping plenty of petrol through and the float bowls are always full.I mentioned the valve clearances because i've had experience of diesel engines not starting from cold due to tight clearances resulting in a loss of compression and not starting. If they are tight enough to stay open when the engine is cold then the heads probably burned away quite a while ago! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
addiction269 Posted April 22, 2009 Report Share Posted April 22, 2009 not too sure with valves only prob i had with non starting on my fzr is the timing from the stator, whats the mileage>? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAMO666 Posted April 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 The mileage is about 41,000.Could you give more details on your stator experience? When it eventually does start the motor is quiet, which makes me believe it is sound.I have ordered a 12mm adaptor for my compression tester so i can eliminate anything major. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evilchicken0 Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 I'd say valves too. When the engine's cold the valves aren't sealing but when it's warmed (using the easy start) the head has expanded just enough to get some compression. If it was the rings there'd be smoke and you'd have spotted it. Compression test it to make sure, you'll get a low reading on both dry and wet tests for vlaves and dry if it's the rings. If the bike is at the end of it's tollerances then you have a choice - lash it up by wet and drying the shims but know the affected valves are probably dished in the head. - Bite the bullet and strip the top end of the engine, replace the valves check and hone the bores and rebuild. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacemonkey Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 I'd say valves too. When the engine's cold the valves aren't sealing but when it's warmed (using the easy start) the head has expanded just enough to get some compression. If it was the rings there'd be smoke and you'd have spotted it. Compression test it to make sure, you'll get a low reading on both dry and wet tests for vlaves and dry if it's the rings. If the bike is at the end of it's tollerances then you have a choice - lash it up by wet and drying the shims but know the affected valves are probably dished in the head. - Bite the bullet and strip the top end of the engine, replace the valves check and hone the bores and rebuild. Do a leak down test. Then you know exactly if you are losing compression and you know exactly where the pressure is leaking from! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porter_jamie Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 'compression' tester is kinda of useful, but doesnt really tell you anything apart from which cylinder is lowest. 'leakdown tester' is the first thing to try if you have a suspicion about the motor. You basically know if you have an engine or not. You can listen to see if it's coming past the inlet valves (listen to the carbs) the exhaust valve (listen in the pipe) or the rings (listen to the breather, or the filler cap) the gauge tells you how much is leaking past, any more than about 8% and it's rebuild time. if it's all ok, then it's an ancillary. take a look on google or the 'bay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAMO666 Posted May 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2009 Just got round to checking valve clearances, its been on the back burner while i rebuilt my KR1S motor. Anyway did a compression check to start with to see if valve clearance adjustment made any difference, got low readings (could of been the £11 chinese ebay special tester though!). Then checked the clearances, every inlet valve was 0.05mm should be 0.1-0.2 and 2 exhaust valves were slightly out. The rocker cover had signs of sealant on the gasket so someboby has been in before and i'm wondering if they have set the inlet valves wrong, also the camshaft bearing diameters have slightly uneven wear on them, as if the tight clearances are pushing them against the bearing caps. Anyway going to surface grind the shims to correct thickness and see if it will start from cold without the easy start treatment. I'm satisfied the motor is sound because when it does start there is no smoke and its quiet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheFlymo Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 It does sound like some sort of valve issue to me. I had the same thing with an FZ400 a few years ago, from cold I had to either crank it off a car battery for 10 minutes with EZ start, or run it down the (steep) 30 yard car park ramp at work and bump start it- the extra speed compared to the starter motor seemed to get enough compression to get it to fire. Whipped the cover off and set all the valves just-so (screw and locknut, so easy peasy) and it started first prod from then on. If the clearances are OK though, it could be that the valves or seats are knackered. I had a 1000RU Exup that ate it's valves before the first valve clearance interval was due, PDQ sorted it. Apparently some of them were chocolate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juboy Posted June 6, 2009 Report Share Posted June 6, 2009 Check the comprstion,when the engine is warm take out all the spark plugs fit a comp tester and spin the engine over with the throtle wide open,if the reading are lower than 100ish psi then you will need to find whats causing the problem,if you squirt a bit of oil down the bore and recheck,if the comp gose up then you have a bore,pisto ring problem,if it stays the same it will probably be a valve or head gasket problem.Hopr this helps Ju Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAMO666 Posted June 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2009 reduced the thickness of the inlet valve shims by 0.15mm by surface grinding and put cams back in, which was a real ballache because there are no timing marks on the crank. It fired first time but seems to be missing a bit, I'll check the carbs and valve timing again. The cam cover seal is leaking a bit so got a price of Yamaha £25!!!, sure i bought one for a 600 years ago and it was only a tenner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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