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Bandit 1200 engines - your wisdom if you please...


halfmanhalfninja

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Have a Bandit 1200 engine to inspect & re-build for a friend -  the particulars are;

K3/4, unknown mileage but reckoned to be less than 30K. Home serviced :facepalm:

has had top-end "checked-over" by a numpty, who's also had the sump off and aborted an attempt to have the head and block off (basically loosened every bolt and then tightened them up again when he found out the price of a genuine gasket kit). :facepalm:image.png.3607e3866ae2d6bcf09b07047e622ba9.png 

Had a standard exhaust and carb set-up, not tuned.

Have worked on many a big-bore Kwak, but never touched one of these units before. Will be checking the bores, compression, clearances, all the obvious stuff - anybody have any acquired knowledge to impart, anything in particular I should be looking for? Motor will remain standard, apart from a decent exhaust and carb set-up - again, any recommended combinations would be appreciated.

Ta. 

image.png

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"DOT" head if you can find one cheap. Used on 88/89 J/K short stroke GSXR750's and the tame GSX750F. Has a "dot" cast into the side. Fits the 12 and puts the compression up, has the larger valves,  if its off a 750GSXR the cams are OK, if its off an GSXF bin them. A common mod for early Blandits. Gives more punch with a slight loss of torque. 

241paiw.jpg

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The dot heads aren't that easy to find these days for decent money

I had a few because I had a few 750J/K Slingys. Loved the manic nature of the motor compared with the L

Wish I still had one

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Lapping the valves into the head gives good results, as does removing the middle leaf of the oem gasket. 1100K/L cams if you can find some and 750L/M 38mm carbs too.

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Extend the battery leads with a couple of off the shelf starter motor leads, gel battery lay down in the tail, fuel pump and both solenoids will then fit in the battery box, stock inlet rubbers are thick, you can get away with drilling undersize holes and threading the foggers in, flick switch on the bars turns the horn button into the nitrous button, micro switch on the carbs makes sure it only comes in on full throttle, don't go smaller than a 2 or 2.5lb bottle....

6pt9mu.jpg

 

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10 hours ago, Tony Nitrous said:

Extend the battery leads with a couple of off the shelf starter motor leads, gel battery lay down in the tail, fuel pump and both solenoids will then fit in the battery box, stock inlet rubbers are thick, you can get away with drilling undersize holes and threading the foggers in, flick switch on the bars turns the horn button into the nitrous button, micro switch on the carbs makes sure it only comes in on full throttle, don't go smaller than a 2 or 2.5lb bottle....

6pt9mu.jpg

 

You've just reminded me - what ever happened to that mad bastard with the do it yourself nitrous web site - i know he fucked his spine and wound up paralyzed, used to follow his webpage, and then kinda forgot about it...

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3 hours ago, Gammaboy said:

You've just reminded me - what ever happened to that mad bastard with the do it yourself nitrous web site - i know he fucked his spine and wound up paralyzed, used to follow his webpage, and then kinda forgot about it...

That was John (Burgerman)

http://www.nitrous.info/

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  • 4 weeks later...

Nothing really to look out for, brick of an engine and delightfully simple. If not looking for power, just check it over, bolt it back together and call it good.

 

Mine was still going strong huffing 200hp@ 7psi of boost on a totally standard block at around 60,000 miles with nothing more than a yearly clearance check and oil change before I sold it.  

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  • 8 months later...

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