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Rivetting solid chain links


matt_the_blat

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It's time for new chain and sprockets on the Mille so I ordered a set from B&C this afternoon. I'll find out for sure when it arrives but the nice lady on the phone told me the chain has a solid link, i.e. not soft & hollow copper tips, but a solid pin :icon_blackeye:

I've got a Motion-Pro chain tool which is fine for copper tipped links but my mate struggled with it when he fitted a chain with solid links :D

So, do I perservere with my current tool or stop dicking about and spend another £60 with B&C (or any other suggestions?) and get the right tool for the job?

Cheers,

Matt :eusa_think:

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You get what you pay for at the end of the day. I own one of those cheap chain break/rivet tools and don't like it. I've just bought a heavy duty version but, as yet, haven't used it.

The only thing I would say about hammering the ends over is, make sure you don't end up with a tight link. That link needs to match the others (width between plates) and it's very difficult to acheive that accurately using a couple of hammers.

I fitted a cheap 520 O-ring chain like this years ago and that link was always too tight afterwards. It would always sit at a different angle to the rest. Not so bad on an old offroader but not so good on the latest sportsbike.

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it'll be 'copper' ended link (its not really copper, just annealed steel)

If it is solid then you wouldn't be able to mushroom it over no matter what tool you have - I've never seen a solid ended link.

The hammer & anvil method is crap, and as said above, you end up with a tight link & squashed o-rings

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it'll be 'copper' ended link (its not really copper, just annealed steel)

If it is solid then you wouldn't be able to mushroom it over no matter what tool you have - I've never seen a solid ended link.

The hammer & anvil method is crap, and as said above, you end up with a tight link & squashed o-rings

I've had a few with solid links, they were definitely not copper - it's easy to deform the head with a ball pein hammer.

As for the tightness of the link... deforming the head of the pin doesn't tighten up the link - only way you'll get it too tight is if you press the side plate on too far.You don't batter the pin so much that it pushes against the sideplate, you only need to deform the head very slightly - the sideplate is a bleedin tight fit anyway.

You can always mushroom the head of the pin with an angle grinder... (I have a mate who swears by this method - but then he also uses 10W-40 in his forks ;) )

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I asked the same question a couple of weeks ago, I'm going to fit the sprockets and ride the bike back to my 'man' who's got the Regina tool :)

What a PITA

My post

BUB :eusa_think:

Yeah, tell me about it - apparently Renthal chains are rebranded Regina ones!

Right, my new chain came yesterday and it's a solid link so my Motion-Pro tool isn't going to work. Nothing like the right tool for the job so I invested in a Whale Chain Riveter from B&C which has just arrived.

Slight problem though - no instructions! Now I've replaced chains many times before so I'm not a total eejit, but I can't see how this one works. On my Motion-Pro one you tighten the riveting tool with a spanner/socket. This one looks like an impact tool, i.e. hit it with a hammer to splay the end of the link pin - anyone know if that's right?

*Edit to say I phoned B&C to ask and my guess was right - press the side plates on then insert the pin through the tool and belt it with a hammer to peen over the end of each pin :eusa_think:

Cheers,

Matt ;)

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