crasher76 Posted March 24, 2009 Report Share Posted March 24, 2009 Hi contemplating a Cagiva project, which year yamaha motor is best? were the newer brazilian ones a little flakey? How much do i need to spend for a reasonable stock motor or in need of rebuild? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgtkr1 Posted March 24, 2009 Report Share Posted March 24, 2009 any really. the main diffrences in performance are down to the ignition. even the brazilian version will be ok engine wise. just rebuild with genuine yam parts. if you can have the motor tuned/blueprinted with the head squished/skimmed (massive potentiol here) decent pipes ie swarbrick and bigger carbs. zeeltronic ignition will allow the bike to rev way further than any old lc/valve could pre programmable ignitions. very very impressive motor for its age/simplicity. irc the earlier barrels had thicker liners thus more rebores in em. early ignitons are better if you cant stretch to a programmable unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I am GOD Posted March 24, 2009 Report Share Posted March 24, 2009 Brazilian 350r's were in a lower state of tune as standard, so tend to last a bit longer believe it or not. As posted above earlier ones were a bit more fruity. Either way any of them in a mito chassis is gonna pretty funny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
franky Posted March 24, 2009 Report Share Posted March 24, 2009 Brazilian 350r's were in a lower state of tune as standard, so tend to last a bit longer believe it or not. As posted above earlier ones were a bit more fruity. Either way any of them in a mito chassis is gonna pretty funny. if you want to build a proper motor i've got a long stroke crank(390cc) sorted barrels, twin 34mm carbs, vforce 3 reeds/valves, billet mounts from a none moving project that i'd be willing to sell, also a std engine too, be good for 90bhp at the wheel(reliable 90bhp). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I am GOD Posted March 25, 2009 Report Share Posted March 25, 2009 There you go Crasher, job jobbed!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liamo Posted March 25, 2009 Report Share Posted March 25, 2009 Hi contemplating a Cagiva project, which year yamaha motor is best? were the newer brazilian ones a little flakey? How much do i need to spend for a reasonable stock motor or in need of rebuild? I paid 300 for a running YPVS motor about a year ago. That included carbs and some electrics, and an airbox. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I am GOD Posted March 25, 2009 Report Share Posted March 25, 2009 and a fully rebuilt and sorted lump is gonna be the thick end of £5-600 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris675 Posted March 25, 2009 Report Share Posted March 25, 2009 if you want to build a proper motor i've got a long stroke crank(390cc) sorted barrels, twin 34mm carbs, vforce 3 reeds/valves, billet mounts from a none moving project that i'd be willing to sell, also a std engine too, be good for 90bhp at the wheel(reliable 90bhp). I have offered to help you with that! and i am waiting for a payrise/lottery win so i can have the engine... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willbloke Posted March 27, 2009 Report Share Posted March 27, 2009 THe early ones had a fruitier ignition , but liners were a bit suspect . So if you have a quick left hand and a bottomless wallet , early ignition with later barrels with sorted squish and a nice set of Stevens/Lomas pipes . It will rip your nipples off and hump your cat ...... For a couple of hundred miles then explode like some sort of expensive confetti ... I know , I was there ... But boy was it worth it ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgtkr1 Posted March 27, 2009 Report Share Posted March 27, 2009 may be wrong but i think the problems come from bikes with pipes that only work well into the red. a bike tuned to have monster midrange, shell optimax and quality premix should last. ive only had one failiure but my own fault. use genuine pistons/rings/l-ends ect or at the very least japanese made pattern parts. try to avoid taiwan made parts in tuned motors. pattern gaskets are fine other than use genuine head gaskets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hail Seizure Posted April 22, 2009 Report Share Posted April 22, 2009 The F2 Models had the most power(62bhp) and they are cheaper than the early ones.You can bike up a whole bike for £300 and sell what you don't need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgtkr1 Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 had the most ''claimed'' power but you would do well to feel any diffrence in hp. in fact i beleive the earlier bikes feel sharper but i cant personally comment as the only bikes ive ridden have all been tuned. very quick, the std albeit tired f2 i rode felt fuckin feeble, horrible thing with about as much get up n go as a restricted 125. the diffrence between that particular bike and mine was shocking. may well of been worn out mind???? later models are definitly cheaper and a bit stronger (liners) though and with a complete 31k ignition it should go well enough. have a mild tune/squish and you should have a handy bike. lovely toquey engine for a 2 stroke, wheelies become normal. great fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devon Posted April 30, 2009 Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 how are you even finding an engine to buy, all i want is a bottom end and i cant even find one of them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cagimaha Posted April 30, 2009 Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 Put a post in the "wanted" section of the yamaha-rd.com forum. It normally dosent take long to get a reply and in my experience prices and quality of goods are much better than e-ghey. Hope this helps, Ben. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackojet Posted August 7, 2009 Report Share Posted August 7, 2009 i had a 350 ypvs n 1 model in '87 which was an '85 model , my mate had the later n2 model , mine was loads faster , if i remember rightly the ignition stator plate on the latter model was restricted , so the bike would not rev out past the redline . i had stan stephens F2 pipes on mine and it revved to the "P" on made in japan on the rev counter , it used to have a second power band at 11500rpm ! after i sold my bike , my mate tried the pipes on his bike and it would not rev past 9500rpm , ooh he crashed it and that was the last i saw of the pipes ! i'm sure the earlier engine was defo the stronger in midrange power aswell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coose Posted August 10, 2009 Report Share Posted August 10, 2009 Yep, the F/N2 Valves had a rev limiter (as did the TDR/TZR250s) at about 10,500, which was pretty-much the red line. I had a Stage 3 Stephens-tuned valve with 34mm PJs and Lomas Pipes and it was awesome up until that point, where it would just stop dead.... What it needed was a 31k F/N1 ignition as they did not have the rev limiter. I once raced Nicky Kennedy tuned 350LC at Cadwell on the same pipes with KR1 carbs (back in 1992 I think) and that would just rev and rev, wayyyyyy past 12k still making power! I doubt that it would last long though, but by 'eck did it go! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GREENGOATCHOKER Posted September 1, 2009 Report Share Posted September 1, 2009 The ideal ypvs engine is not available anymore (ie not f*****). they have all been tuned (mostly badly) and thrashed . so look for an honest seller who is willing to tell you how much of it isn't shagged . i'd rather spend £150 on a partialy shagged motor from an honest seller , than £600 for a completely rebuilt (honest guv) engine . i have been known to partialy strip an engine in order to substantiate engine condition (and with an rd500 lump saved me about £1700 in repair bills) . the ignitions/cdi's are swappable so don't worry about that , so are the bores . Anyone who claims to be getting 90rwbhp out of anything less than a 420+cc trinity should be considered a fisherman and either him or the bike is running on nitro methanol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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