Pinkbike1 Posted March 19, 2009 Report Share Posted March 19, 2009 Hi guys got a query about the bike (2000 cbr929 'blade) was out on a ride at weekend and at one point while 'making progress' had a lot of vibration/bounce from the front end,looked down and saw the front end oscillating fore and aft felt just like wheels out of balance on a car.Mentioned this to a work collegue who straight away said classic headstock bearing fault mate, now the question is, is he right should I replace the bearings or will adjusting/tightening them be enough Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Pigdog Posted March 19, 2009 Report Share Posted March 19, 2009 I would get a scissor jack underneath the exhaust headers and jack it so the front wheel is just off the ground-check neither wheel or brake disc is warped(wheel could also be out of balance)and tighten the headstock bearings enough to take out any slack when pulling the forks fore and aft.So long as you have a smooth consistent movement when rotating the bars left to right(classic sign of worn steering bearings is a 'notch' in the central position)then the jobs a good un!From what you say it sounds like they're very loose! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted March 19, 2009 Report Share Posted March 19, 2009 I'd just take the tope yolk off and have a look at the top bearings race. You'll have to do this anyway to tighten the lock nuts anyway (i mean take the yolk off). If there's any marks on the race on your steering stem I'd change them straight away. I did mine recently, as when I was using the brakes I could hear a slight click when coming off the brakes. Took the stem to bits and found both top and bottom races were showing brinneling marks. Got to admit, getting the bottom race off the stem was a bit of a bugger and I had to make a tool, to squeeze the races that are fitted into the headstock together, but in truth, I'm glad I was able to do this myself as it would of cost 150+ VAT for a garage to do it. Does sound like your bearings are really loose if you can actually see movement Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deviant Posted March 19, 2009 Report Share Posted March 19, 2009 Got to admit, getting the bottom race off the stem was a bit of a bugger and I had to make a tool, to squeeze the races that are fitted into the headstock together. You can just buy them you know... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted March 19, 2009 Report Share Posted March 19, 2009 Deviant, at times mate, I really did think about resorting to that!! LOL Cut it off in the end with a dremel disc cutter fitted into my cordless drill. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deviant Posted March 19, 2009 Report Share Posted March 19, 2009 You seem to be under the impression that I'm joking? Every steering head bearing I've changed has been (gently) knocked out with a hammer and drift, and (gently) tapped back in with a hammer and a suitably sized socket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted March 19, 2009 Report Share Posted March 19, 2009 Oh, OH! The race on the bottom of the stem was cut off as stated before and the inner races on the headstock were removed with the hammer/ drift method as stated in the workshop manual. For installing the new inner races I got a 250mm long bolt and placed suitably sized washers at either end with the new races between and as I turned the nut it squeezed the races towards each other and seated them safely and without the need for the hammer/ socket method around this "very expensive to repair" casting. I've used the hammer/ socket method for replacing the bearings in my wheels but these are obviously much smaller and easier to deal with. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Pigdog Posted March 19, 2009 Report Share Posted March 19, 2009 Yep im a firm believer in the hammer and drift method of removal-never been defeated yet either!!For installing the replacement i usually use an old fork leg too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxerthou Posted March 25, 2009 Report Share Posted March 25, 2009 Yep im a firm believer in the hammer and drift method of removal-never been defeated yet either!!For installing the replacement i usually use an old fork leg too! its getting them back in that gives me problems. Heat Heastock with Blowtorch... check Freeze races overnight... check Beat gently with a hammer for an hour... check Ring local deisel fitter mate with a bearing press the next day... check Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
levo Posted March 25, 2009 Report Share Posted March 25, 2009 When I changed my headrace bearings, hammer and drift/bolt/rost off worked a treat and when you put them back in wreck the old ones and tap the new ones in with the outer casing....job jobbed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted March 25, 2009 Report Share Posted March 25, 2009 To check them please don't jack your bike up using the exhaust to jack against, it'll end in tears at some point, I'm sure. Instead, put the sidestand down, put your foot where the sidestand meets the floor and pull back on the bars. It'll take a good heave to get it to lift but once it's at its balance point it's not heavy at all. Then get your helpfull assistant to push and pull the bottom of the forks forward and back. If there's movement, it's your bearings fault. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evilchicken0 Posted March 25, 2009 Report Share Posted March 25, 2009 Yeah - in the paper / sissors / stone game of headstock bearing a lump hammer beats just about anything Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinkbike1 Posted March 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 Hi Guys thanks for all the replies mechanical and otherwise, managed to get into the shed to check things out last night got the front wheel off the ground using a paddock stand and adaptor under the headstock,check for movement on the forks didnt seem to be any, only bike moving back and fore on stands,going to keep an eye on it see if it happens again. Just wondering if it was the road surface (roundabout at Holme Pierrepoint?nat watersports centre) outside Nottingham? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deviant Posted March 26, 2009 Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 If i've understood correctly you've used a headstock paddock stand which fits up into the steering stem? If that's what you've used, the weight of the bike is still being taken through the bottom yoke and the bottom head bearing, which may be disguising a problem. If you can, support the bike so there is no load on the bearings - for example by putting a jack under the sump - and try again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted March 26, 2009 Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 Although you'll be pleased to know that your fork bushes aren't too worn... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vfiend Posted March 26, 2009 Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 The roads round holme pierpont are shocking in my experience. As for checking them, lorenzo hit the nail on the head. Weight off front, Grab either side (top & bottom), wiggle side to side and up and down. With weight off the front end, rock the bars side to side gently, if you do it with just a coupla fingers you can easily feel notches, try it at cental position, make sure cables arnt throwing your judgment. For loose bearings it'll be a constant problem, it'll be allover the place on white lines and wobbly round corners. Good news about hondas is that the head bearnings are pretty much the same on all of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curly68 Posted March 26, 2009 Report Share Posted March 26, 2009 If memory serves me correct (it may not though), Honda recalled these to replace the taper roller bearings to std roller bearings. The frame should be marked to say this has been done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinkbike1 Posted March 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2009 If i've understood correctly you've used a headstock paddock stand which fits up into the steering stem? If that's what you've used, the weight of the bike is still being taken through the bottom yoke and the bottom head bearing, which may be disguising a problem. If you can, support the bike so there is no load on the bearings - for example by putting a jack under the sump - and try again. check will grab a voulenteer to assist! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinkbike1 Posted March 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2009 If memory serves me correct (it may not though), Honda recalled these to replace the taper roller bearings to std roller bearings. The frame should be marked to say this has been done. Any idea where the frame is marked? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curly68 Posted March 27, 2009 Report Share Posted March 27, 2009 There were a few recalls on these. Now you're asking me to search the murky depths of my memory! It should be marked by the frame number on the headstock. They were recalled for a longer fuel pipe as well and a clutch mod also. But I could be wrong, its a long time ago now. Each recall had a different punch mark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Pigdog Posted March 27, 2009 Report Share Posted March 27, 2009 I've checked hundreds of bikes using the jack method and not even once come a cropper,avoided doing it with some 2 strokes expansion pipes though!-first wedge your thumb ontop of the top race edge/frame and hold the front brake and rock the bike backwards and forwards to feel for any play.Next jack it up and feel for notches as you rotate-then grab the forks and pull and push them to feel for looseness-like has been said dont confuse worn fork bushes with loose headstock bearings.They should-when jacked up just move to the other lockstop when you tap the handlebar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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