redders225 Posted March 17, 2009 Report Share Posted March 17, 2009 Hellooooooo, I've recently fitted a WP 2nd hand unit on the back of my 5JJ, problem is it came without the owners manual (good old flea bay). The last owner reckons it'd done about 4 track days since servicing but couldn't find the service records either (???) It is the old style 4XV/5JJ fitment with ride height , preload, comp and rebound adjustment (no high speed damping for this one) and i'm trying to get a manual for the basic setup. I've done the normal static sag adjustment but need a baseline for the damping. It's been set at about 6 mm longer (hole centre to hole centre) than the OE rear shock. Has anyone got one or lead me by the nose to a good link ??? I've been on the WP site but can't find too much about the old style ones. One other question, are the hyperpro progressive spring kits worth a go? I dont know if the bike may just be better with some fresh oil after 18k of hard use....... Very many thanks for anyone who can help me with this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dizzyr1 Posted March 17, 2009 Report Share Posted March 17, 2009 Welcome to the forum...... could give you links to other threads but hey ho.... got some time to kill. front end..... yep new springs would be a grand idea, depends on your weight but im 12 stone with no kit on and use ohlins 9nm springs front and rear... new oil 10wt manual says 74mm air gap but k-tech advise 80 (must change that other thread as i put 90 oops) and that will do the job for the front. Back end..... give wp a call ( really good folk, dealt with them a few times ) if you have the blokes address they should confirm recent rebuild. (bloke could of rang for copy of receipt ) but would expect a negative on this and do yourself a favour and get it rebuilt with the correct spring for your weight ( they do fork springs! deal time ) as for a manual for setup thats down to you the rider to set up depending on track conditions, however there are threads on this forum, scroll up on workshop thread and read the top pinned thread and this could help you understand your bike, whats its doing and how to improve on this..... on the back end of mine, its also jacked up(ohlins) and helps with ground clearance and turn in rates...... let us know how you get on with WP doing the forks is easy with the right tools, pain in the bum without, still a two man job though..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redders225 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2009 Welcome to the forum...... could give you links to other threads but hey ho.... got some time to kill. front end..... yep new springs would be a grand idea, depends on your weight but im 12 stone with no kit on and use ohlins 9nm springs front and rear... new oil 10wt manual says 74mm air gap but k-tech advise 80 (must change that other thread as i put 90 oops) and that will do the job for the front. Back end..... give wp a call ( really good folk, dealt with them a few times ) if you have the blokes address they should confirm recent rebuild. (bloke could of rang for copy of receipt ) but would expect a negative on this and do yourself a favour and get it rebuilt with the correct spring for your weight ( they do fork springs! deal time ) as for a manual for setup thats down to you the rider to set up depending on track conditions, however there are threads on this forum, scroll up on workshop thread and read the top pinned thread and this could help you understand your bike, whats its doing and how to improve on this..... on the back end of mine, its also jacked up(ohlins) and helps with ground clearance and turn in rates...... let us know how you get on with WP doing the forks is easy with the right tools, pain in the bum without, still a two man job though..... Hey thanks for that, i'm not sure that the rear shock actually went back to WP, i think he said he bought it off a suspension guy at a trackday at knockhill and that he'd done the service himself. again no documents to prove anything. i'll bite the bullet and get it serviced and resprung though, i may get someone like road and race suspension in kingsclere to fit the hyperpro fork spring kit too if they'll do it too. I was really wondering if the progressive springs make much of a difference from the linear springs normally fitted. I guess we will see, thanks again though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dizzyr1 Posted March 17, 2009 Report Share Posted March 17, 2009 anytime, However it would be of great use to grab a manual, find a second pair of hands and tackle the forks on your own. Its honestly a very easy job once you know how, and plenty of people on the forum to give tips and help. Once you learn to do your own forks you are now in the position to refresh the oil on a regular basis without paing someone to do it, im sure its advised to replace oil every year or 3000 miles. Not much difference in forks from one bike to another gsxr,r1,zx10 all essentialy the same, haynes manual very clear on how to tackle the job, describes homemade tool to do it (first time did mine used a pair of screwdrivers ( yikes) but it did the job. Remove fork cap use tool (your choice in the holes either side of sleve proecting spring, 4 small holes push down hard, inset spanner put socket on cap and undo, replace all parts in order they came out..... on the r1 preload adjster set 11mm of thread showing at bottom when putting preload adjuster back on..... pump all the oil out, leave upside down for a while (damper rod will slide out, but thats ok. pump oil out again, fill with oil ( no spring or gubbins in at this point, (with the fork compressed as much as poss) top up until the oil level is 80mm from the top, or 72 mm by the manual. pump a little ( dont pull the fork all the way up as it may seperate, dont panic if it does just pump it so it pops back,may need a bit of force. leave the fork for 20 mins allow oil to settle, measure again pump a few more times measure again and top up if required. tie some string around rod at top under bolt and pull up, shove spring done,(string in the middle, insert centre rodput shim on spring put leve on shim put shim on sleve compress spring put spanner on nut, attach fork top, leaving 11mm of thread showing beneath....eh voila. rebiult for with new spring and oil, no need to remove comprssion unit at the bottom....... have a go its easy when the fork is in front of you, manual and mate by your side, and the worst comes to the worse you go to a garage with fork in hand and ask for help..... Cash saved in the post first class stamp addressed to monieur dizzy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redders225 Posted March 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2009 anytime, However it would be of great use to grab a manual, find a second pair of hands and tackle the forks on your own. Its honestly a very easy job once you know how, and plenty of people on the forum to give tips and help. Once you learn to do your own forks you are now in the position to refresh the oil on a regular basis without paing someone to do it, im sure its advised to replace oil every year or 3000 miles. Not much difference in forks from one bike to another gsxr,r1,zx10 all essentialy the same, haynes manual very clear on how to tackle the job, describes homemade tool to do it (first time did mine used a pair of screwdrivers ( yikes) but it did the job. Remove fork cap use tool (your choice in the holes either side of sleve proecting spring, 4 small holes push down hard, inset spanner put socket on cap and undo, replace all parts in order they came out..... on the r1 preload adjster set 11mm of thread showing at bottom when putting preload adjuster back on..... pump all the oil out, leave upside down for a while (damper rod will slide out, but thats ok. pump oil out again, fill with oil ( no spring or gubbins in at this point, (with the fork compressed as much as poss) top up until the oil level is 80mm from the top, or 72 mm by the manual. pump a little ( dont pull the fork all the way up as it may seperate, dont panic if it does just pump it so it pops back,may need a bit of force. leave the fork for 20 mins allow oil to settle, measure again pump a few more times measure again and top up if required. tie some string around rod at top under bolt and pull up, shove spring done,(string in the middle, insert centre rodput shim on spring put leve on shim put shim on sleve compress spring put spanner on nut, attach fork top, leaving 11mm of thread showing beneath....eh voila. rebiult for with new spring and oil, no need to remove comprssion unit at the bottom....... have a go its easy when the fork is in front of you, manual and mate by your side, and the worst comes to the worse you go to a garage with fork in hand and ask for help..... Cash saved in the post first class stamp addressed to monieur dizzy Yep, you talked me into it I'm pretty happy with the process, to be honest i was just being bone idle. Definately a shock rebuild, save the money on the fork work and buy more shiney stuff for the bike, or beer, or something nice for the missus (who will be happy that i get out on the bike more) etc, etc. Its all about investment i guess.... Ta Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
budda Posted March 19, 2009 Report Share Posted March 19, 2009 I fitted a hyperpro kit to my R1 and it was good two up but I didn't feel a benifit while riding on my own, so not worth the money IMO. There's also a train of thought that says you can't get an accurate suspension setting due to the progressive nature of the springs. Eventualy I fitted the ohlins rear shock thats on Dizzy's and it made a real difference. So I would say get the shock serviced and get the linear springs as WP recommend then you'll be bob on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redders225 Posted March 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 I fitted a hyperpro kit to my R1 and it was good two up but I didn't feel a benifit while riding on my own, so not worth the money IMO. There's also a train of thought that says you can't get an accurate suspension setting due to the progressive nature of the springs. Eventualy I fitted the ohlins rear shock thats on Dizzy's and it made a real difference. So I would say get the shock serviced and get the linear springs as WP recommend then you'll be bob on. Thanks a lot for that, nice to hear from someone who's given them a go. Anyone fancy a hyperpro progressive spring kit going cheap ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.