porter_jamie Posted March 13, 2009 Report Share Posted March 13, 2009 Passed the MOT yesterday (woohoo) but when pressing on it wallows badly, and i fancy the '90s trackday - novice group of course. I looked at an ohlins and they are knocking on the door of a grand! Anyone have experience of a Nitron? They look good value, and i think they are made in the UK - like to support our local industry etc. Any other ideas? 'edit dodgy spelling' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David W Posted March 13, 2009 Report Share Posted March 13, 2009 Get it rebuilt by K-Tech or someone similar? Couple of hundred quid and it will work much better than standard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnymack63 Posted March 13, 2009 Report Share Posted March 13, 2009 Passed the MOT yesterday (woohoo) but when pressing on it wallows badly, and i fancy the '90s trackday - novice group of course. I looked at an ohlins and they are knocking on the door on a grand! Anyone have experience of a Nitron? They look good value, and i think they are made in the UK - like to support our local industry etc. Any other ideas? Funny you should say that ! I'm working on a feature with Nitron right now. They're building a shock for my 91 ZXR750 and I went to visit them last week. Really impressive and coz they're manufactored here in blighty, they aren't having to hike the prices up due to the weak pound. They are the real deal. They put the old shock from my ZXR on their dyno and it just puked it's guts up all over the immaculatly clean workshop. Embarresed ? Oh yes ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porter_jamie Posted March 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2009 Funny you should say that ! I'm working on a feature with Nitron right now. They're building a shock for my 91 ZXR750 and I went to visit them last week. Really impressive and coz they're manufactored here in blighty, they aren't having to hike the prices up due to the weak pound. They are the real deal. They put the old shock from my ZXR on their dyno and it just puked it's guts up all over the immaculatly clean workshop. Embarresed ? Oh yes ! Thanks - they do seem very good value, might have to drop the cash quick before i get all sensible and spend it on the house. Is there a thread about the next 90's t/day somewhere? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porter_jamie Posted March 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2009 Get it rebuilt by K-Tech or someone similar? Couple of hundred quid and it will work much better than standard. hi - rang 'em up acutally - 85 quid to rebuild it (which i thought was good value as well), but they can't redo the valving, so i'm stuck with that, and it's almost the same again for a spring to match my expanding waistline. Hope my leathers still fit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tootall Posted March 13, 2009 Report Share Posted March 13, 2009 If you do fancy a Nitron, gimme a shout. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparx55 Posted March 13, 2009 Report Share Posted March 13, 2009 Get it rebuilt by K-Tech or someone similar? Couple of hundred quid and it will work much better than standard. or Kais (my choice) or Maxton ( my previous choice) both damn good at rebiulding to suit your weight style and usage. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
budda Posted March 13, 2009 Report Share Posted March 13, 2009 Woah boy! Hold yer horses early R1's need more compression damping before they will hold a line (if on factory settings) and then perform a whole lot better, and it costs nowt. Give that a try before spending yer hard earned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porter_jamie Posted March 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2009 Woah boy! Hold yer horses early R1's need more compression damping before they will hold a line (if on factory settings) and then perform a whole lot better, and it costs nowt. Give that a try before spending yer hard earned. the adjuster doesnt seem to make any difference from fully off to fully on... i am in a minor quandry - the bro can tell the difference of 2.5mm of preload and one click of rebound on the 'mono (really..) this might be because the bike has fundamentally flawed weight distribution and chain run geometry. a bike that wallows badly and or wont hold a line is incredibly frustrating, and i dont want to get all the way to cadwell for him to find out, for the sake of a revalved shock/new shock!! I appreciate your money saving sentiments entirely though, thankyou. It might be ok though. it is down to: new shock for the R1 or a 5th of a kitchen... there's a chippy up the road! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2 smokes 4 ever Posted March 14, 2009 Report Share Posted March 14, 2009 hi - rang 'em up acutally - 85 quid to rebuild it (which i thought was good value as well), but they can't redo the valving, so i'm stuck with that, and it's almost the same again for a spring to match my expanding waistline. Hope my leathers still fit Springs are just over £20 from Demon Tweeks (made by Faulkners) and they seem to be pretty good. I' have them, coz I also wouldn't pay £65 for a 'name' spring Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porter_jamie Posted March 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2009 Springs are just over £20 from Demon Tweeks (made by Faulkners) and they seem to be pretty good. I' have them, coz I also wouldn't pay £65 for a 'name' spring yeah - i've used faulkners springs - a spring is a spring - length and rate what more you need, paying an extra 40quid for a yellow one is a bit silly. The fatigue life might be a bit longer, but for 20 quid who cares Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dizzyr1 Posted March 16, 2009 Report Share Posted March 16, 2009 You could just buy a second hand ohlins and have it refreshed for about £80 4xv and 5jj models share the same shock fitment..... and for some reason (tech expert to fill in the blank) the r1 suspension is only effective when making alterations in the final 4 clicks of adjustment, and from standard have far too soft springs fitted to acheive a static sag setup........... ive had loads of fun sorting mine out (thanks k-tech) after another ohlins dealer gave some duff info on front end setup. oil, air gap and springs..... dont bother with the original one, get something else in that fine stead of yours...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnymack63 Posted March 16, 2009 Report Share Posted March 16, 2009 Give Nitron a call. Bring you shock to them and they'll put it on their shock dyno. Then you'll know if it's fucked or just needs setting up. The shock out of my ZXR couldn't even hold the weight of the top clamp of the dyno when it was released. It just sank. Basically I was riding in the spring only. No amount of "setting up" would have helped becasue it had pretty much no gas or oil in it ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted March 16, 2009 Report Share Posted March 16, 2009 I looked at an ohlins and they are knocking on the door of a grand! Any other ideas? keep an eye on ebay, ohlins shocks come up quite frequently [typical though, none on there at the mo] and they tend to go for £350ish. I bought mine a few years ago and got it for about £250, though it was a bit tatty, and I took it to Harris for a refurb, re-spring & revalve to suit me. I cannot begin to describe the difference the ohlins made, compared to the OE shock, it was like night & day. And my OE shock was relatively low mileage at the time. By far the biggest single improvement I've made to the bike. the other ones that seem very regarded for the early R1's are WP shocks, though they don't seem to come up very often... ...speak of the devil http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/yamaha-r1-wp-98-99-m...A1%7C240%3A1318 there ya go, get in there!!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted March 16, 2009 Report Share Posted March 16, 2009 Maxton is the only way to go I've got their race shock (2007 model) and fork internals on my Sv1000s and they simply transformed it from a big soft cuddly lump to a hard as nails, turn on a fuckin sixpence bastard! Loads of adjustment, which you can really feel when you give it a click here and there depending on the track you're on. Example - I was bottoming out under braking going into the first of the double right handers at croft (before the little back straight prior the complex) and one click of compression sorted it out. I'm 18+stone as well so its not like the bike's struggling under weight already Brilliant, simply brilliant. Richard (at Maxton) is a truly helpful chap as well, any problems and get on the phone and he'll give some pearls of wisdom. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porter_jamie Posted March 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2009 Maxton is the only way to go I've got their race shock (2007 model) and fork internals on my Sv1000s and they simply transformed it from a big soft cuddly lump to a hard as nails, turn on a fuckin sixpence bastard! Loads of adjustment, which you can really feel when you give it a click here and there depending on the track you're on. Example - I was bottoming out under braking going into the first of the double right handers at croft (before the little back straight prior the complex) and one click of compression sorted it out. I'm 18+stone as well so its not like the bike's struggling under weight already Brilliant, simply brilliant. Richard (at Maxton) is a truly helpful chap as well, any problems and get on the phone and he'll give some pearls of wisdom. Pete havnt been to croft for ages - it's a long old way from me now. is that the two right handers before it goes into the bit before the lefthand hairpin? the best bit is the proper mans corners before that - clarks curves? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted March 24, 2009 Report Share Posted March 24, 2009 havnt been to croft for ages - it's a long old way from me now. is that the two right handers before it goes into the bit before the lefthand hairpin? the best bit is the proper mans corners before that - clarks curves? Yep, thats the one. Your right as well, the esses before are great corners. Taking them at 100ish constant throttle was great fun. I had to increase the compression as the bend I was on about had a really nasty bump right on the apex when the suspension was properly under load from the braking, but one click and hey presto, no more bottoming out. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porter_jamie Posted April 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2009 so i got a nitron from Mr tootall. it is the dogs bollux. it works nicely as well, the ride feels really 'plush' but controlled at the same time. i dropped the front by 5mm too, and now it has nice neutral steering. i'm gagging to get to a trackday. So all you R1 types out there, what to do with the forks: 1. nothing 2. full on cartridge and so on 3. something inbetween? k-tech do some piston kits for 220 quid, i guess you still need some springs at 80 quid,a nd probably the compression valves as well. anyone done a diy conversion with these bits? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tootall Posted April 19, 2009 Report Share Posted April 19, 2009 Glad you're happy with the shock Jamie. There's been a lot of discussion on one of the french racer forums about this. Cartridge kits versus revalve/prep by a specialist. General consensus seems to be unless you're running at the front of anational championship you dont need a cartridge kit, and a decent revalve will get you almost there in terms of laptimes etc. However a cartridge kit feels 100% better and is soo much more sensitive to adjustment even than a revalve. Basically if you can afford it/want it then go for the cartridge kit, if not then you're not likely to go any slower by opting for the revavle. Dunno about DIY though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossm Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 Mod I did to my old 99 R1 was to fit a different set of yolks to it, get your hands on them from the first FI models 02/03, makes the bugger actually hold a line rather than running out and wide the whole time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul8899 Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 Mod I did to my old 99 R1 was to fit a different set of yolks to it, get your hands on them from the first FI models 02/03, makes the bugger actually hold a line rather than running out and wide the whole time are these a straight swap ? was thinking of making a set up but if these drop in i might get these instead Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossm Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 Yip straight swap, I had Graves Racing ones but same geometry as the FI models Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porter_jamie Posted April 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 what is the difference? more offset? how much? anyone know what the trail is on a 98 v FI bike? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul8899 Posted April 24, 2009 Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 sounds good to me , Ill have to keep an eye on fleabay now I think I remember reading that the FI bike has almost the same geometry as an r7 , might be wrong though I think the newer bikes had 25mm offset compared to 30mm for the 4xv 5jj models Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porter_jamie Posted April 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2009 why do they help with the steering? less offset increases the trail. reduces the wheel base a bit though i suppose, and gets a tiny bit more weight over the front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foo Posted May 10, 2009 Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 I have an 01 model --effectively the same as yours, and I did what Rossm and DizzyR1 have suggested. The later yokes are a straight swap over, and there's a few mm difference on the offset (sadly, can't remember which way). Drop the yokes by 5-10mm, as you have. This is because the pre-03 bikes had more travel in the forks. DizzyR1 gave me some settings for oil level and weight which I followed exactly. I also put a set of WP 0.9 (I think) non-progressive springs in. The difference is dramatic. I have a fully adjustable Technoflex shock on the back, which is probably similar to the unit you got from Tootall in its performance. The bike steers a lot better after these changes --the front doesn't collapse under braking, and if you drop the yokes it doesn't try to run wide in corners. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porter_jamie Posted May 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2009 Went to snet on monday - sorry to anyone in the fast group who i held up... the rear shock was awesome, no problems there at all, but the forks were terrible really, i definitely need to do something about them. WP reckon they can do a revalve and respring for about 300 notes, which i think is ok. Anyone got any experience of them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted May 13, 2009 Report Share Posted May 13, 2009 Went to snet on monday - sorry to anyone in the fast group who i held up... the rear shock was awesome, no problems there at all, but the forks were terrible really, i definitely need to do something about them. WP reckon they can do a revalve and respring for about 300 notes, which i think is ok. Anyone got any experience of them? glad you're enjoying the new shock Jamie as for the forks, I don't about WP, but I think that price sounds about right. If it's any help in making you decide to part with your money, a couple of months ago I taok the plunge & had my 4xv R1 forks revalved by Darren @ MCT in Stowmarket. I thought it was good before, but now it's amazing. Truly amazing. Wasn't cheap* but then quality never is. Worth every penny. only tried them on the road so far, yet to venture on track this year, but I can't wait to give 'em a go. My brief to Darren was 'fast road & track days'. He certainly got the fast road bit right, so I have every faith they'll be just as impressive on track. FYI I'm running standard 4xv yokes with 5mm fork leg [excluding fork cap] protruding above the top yoke. Turns fast and holds a good line, good enough for me! *in fairness to MCT I don't know exactly how much the fork revalve was, I also had my shock & steering damper serviced at the same time. I'm guessing The fork revalve on its own would probably be similar to what you've been quoted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porter_jamie Posted May 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2009 thanks for your comments monkey! just realised the valve kits advertised on the wp uk website are actually Ktech valve kits. i think i am going to get the valves, compression adjusters and springs direct from ktech, and get the bro to fit them for me. He did his tz250 supermono, and it worked really well. Anyone got a recommendation for track tyres for a 4xv? i've got diablo corsa 111's on currently, and i have to say they were amazing considering they are 'only' a road tyre. supercorsas the way to go, or perhaps dunlops? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porter_jamie Posted July 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2009 dropped the forks off at HM racing, since KTech wont sell me the valve kits direct *. He quoted 540 quid all in for springs, valves, service, compression adjusters, oil and so on,and a couple of weeks. Let you know how it goes. *- realised the bro must have got the bits for the tz from HM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.