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Changing tubed tyres


wavydavy

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Every now and then we get a puncture "out in the field", as it were (sometimes literally)....

And I have to change tyres/tubes eitehr out and about or back here...

What I want to know is, does anyone have any tips for 'miracle' tools that may help me not nip the tubes when re-fitting the tyres, especially the front (the front rims on the DR-Zs are about 2" across, maybe less, so there's very little room for manoeuvre when you're popping the last part fo the tyre bead over the rim). It generally takes 2 tubes for a front 'cos I just can't get that balance of firmness (for the bead) and lightness (to not catch the tube) at the same time.

Does anyone know of a cheap, collapsible, home use tyre changer - like a manual version of the hydraulic jobbies you see in tyre shops - or of any tricks you can think of that might make life easier (e.g. what pressure do you put in the tube when you've fitted it? I blast a load in to puff it out, then deflate down to barely noticeable pressure, but still tubular as opposed to flat)?

I use 2 lengths of tyre lever (big bastard for getting the thing off and shorter ones for the more delicate stuff), tyre soap and rim protectors but it's still only 50/50 as to whether that last bit will end up catching the tube... :D:shock:

Ta

Dave

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What MM said, seems to be what a lot of the guys over on 'advrider' do, seems the couple of psi makes it easier

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I find using a shit load of talcum powder on the inside of the tyre and the tube and slightly inflating the tube help prevent pinching the tube for that last little bit of getting the bead seated.

Will try the talc - already inflating slightly:

(e.g. what pressure do you put in the tube when you've fitted it? I blast a load in to puff it out, then deflate down to barely noticeable pressure, but still tubular as opposed to flat)?

Ta

Dave

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Definitely inflate the tube a little. This will get it sat correctly too (not folded up at all angles inside the tyre).

With a front (without tyre locks) you can try this method for fitting a tyre and tube. Put the tube into the tyre (off the rim and stood upright with valve at the bottom), plenty of tyre soap inside and outside, slightly inflate the tube first so it's stays in shape inside the tyre. Place the rim down over the valve and screw the little nut onto the valve to prevent it coming out of the rim. By hand you want to pull the tyre and tube over the rim bit by bit. Never get greedy and use plenty of soap.

If you've only removed the tube for a puncture, always make sure the opposite tyre bead or side to where you are working is sat down fully into the wheel well (even if you get someone to squeeze the tyre together). This will always give you enough slack where you are working. If this is done right, you'll almost be able to get the tyre on without tyre levers although the 'crosser tyres can be hard as nails sometimes!! Always make sure that when the tube is only slightly inflated and tyre fitted correctly, the valve can be pushed freely in and out of the hole (leave the nut slack until finished). If not, you've got it pinched under the tyre.

I also agree with the heavy duty tubes and buy some tractor tube sealant because it's as cheap as chips compared to bike stuff.

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Every now and then we get a puncture "out in the field", as it were (sometimes literally)....

And I have to change tyres/tubes eitehr out and about or back here...

What I want to know is, does anyone have any tips for 'miracle' tools that may help me not nip the tubes when re-fitting the tyres, especially the front (the front rims on the DR-Zs are about 2" across, maybe less, so there's very little room for manoeuvre when you're popping the last part fo the tyre bead over the rim). It generally takes 2 tubes for a front 'cos I just can't get that balance of firmness (for the bead) and lightness (to not catch the tube) at the same time.

Does anyone know of a cheap, collapsible, home use tyre changer - like a manual version of the hydraulic jobbies you see in tyre shops - or of any tricks you can think of that might make life easier (e.g. what pressure do you put in the tube when you've fitted it? I blast a load in to puff it out, then deflate down to barely noticeable pressure, but still tubular as opposed to flat)?

I use 2 lengths of tyre lever (big bastard for getting the thing off and shorter ones for the more delicate stuff), tyre soap and rim protectors but it's still only 50/50 as to whether that last bit will end up catching the tube... :icon_bounce::eusa_dance:

Ta

Dave

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Dave..If you are not using BUZZETTI TYRE LEVERS then get some !..Prefferably 3 of them this will end your problem forever. Make sure they are the ones with the specialy shaped lip , this stops you pushing the lever too far into the rim. Do not be tempted to buy a cheaper copy either..BUZZETTI ones are strong & slim where they need to be (unlike me). Partialy inflating the tube as mentioned will help also, inflate it just enough so it forms its shape only. Use lube on the tyre & keep the bead in the well of the rim when levering the tyre on in small increments (3or4 inches) when it all gets tight !..Make sure the tube is IN the tyre so the bead does'nt nip it at this point. Inflate to pop the bead onto the rim all round (the loads of lube used will make this much easier)

Then adjust to your pressure, then tighten the rim lock. Ive used my Buzzettis for about 15yrs Enduro & Trail use never broke one. Hope this has helped...Pinched tubes are a ball ache ! Rowley

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