trackday addict- Posted February 8, 2009 Report Share Posted February 8, 2009 hi im new to the forum... iv got a little rs 125 as a trackday project atm its got a full arrow,34mm carb and its running on a 170 jet. My question is how do i get 35 bhp or more i wouldnt mind 40 if its possible but im not spending loads on the bike. Btw im nearly 31 so im not just a young kid on a CBT and i also have a gsxr 600 and maybe soon a K7 1000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricey3 Posted February 9, 2009 Report Share Posted February 9, 2009 have a read of this post off the rgv forum mate, might help http://www.rgv250.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=28826 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackday addict- Posted February 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2009 Cheers that really helped.. Im sending my engne to bob farnham after iv got a diffrent shock and sorted the handling out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dizzyr1 Posted February 10, 2009 Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 Have you removed the emmsions chip from the cdi? Not a hard job to do, not entirely sure on the overall benefit, i,e dyno runs before of after!!! but did it to my wifes rs and its done it no harm! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackday addict- Posted February 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 Have you removed the emmsions chip from the cdi? Not a hard job to do, not entirely sure on the overall benefit, i,e dyno runs before of after!!! but did it to my wifes rs and its done it no harm! Yeah thats done i also have a 34mm carb and arrow exhaust, and regards to the red bull before going on track etc im a fairly confident rider and i dont just KD to look good i need to haha i just want the bke to feel and perform like a quick 125 should Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
si.likes.guiness Posted February 10, 2009 Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 save the money you would use tuning it and sell the aprilia and buy a proper honda rs 125.you could get a decent bike for £1500 with spares and they are the buisness to ride Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wavydavy Posted February 10, 2009 Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 i just want the bke to feel and perform like a quick 125 should It's a road based 125, FFS. It's never going to "feel and perform" like a quick 125 because it's not a quick 125. As has been said - if you want a quick 125 buy a frigging race bike - why throw money at a bike that was *claimed* at about 30bhp (so that's 30 at the crank in la-la-ville and maybe 20 at the wheel) and try to double the power? Good luck to you, hope you have fun, but don't expect any sort of rideability or reliability from a road-based 125 tuned to those extremes. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acid Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 just add my 2p here 40 bhp costs loads on an rs125 (there are a few that have done it) bigbore kit, porting& engine blueprint, cermanic bearings, 34mm fsc, reeds, race cdi, race spanny pipe, case work, loads of setting up (jetting) and you will get 40bhp or close to it but on the roads it will require 120% or it will always feel slow and dead. I done all the above to my Rs engine when i got it back in 2001 (new) still have it too (its next to me under a sheet) look at 125ccsportsbikes.com for information they can be made much lighter too as the subframes are all solid steel and weight loads. On track they are fast too just make sure the track has no long straights tho as you will get killed by everything on any form of straight!!! They are corner speed bikes and can carry so much (you will hate using brakes) I still love my Rs and will never sell it closest looking bike to a real GP bike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
si.likes.guiness Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 but the point is mate it takes stupid amounts of money and will never ever get near a honda rs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wavydavy Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 To put it into an easy to read equation: how do i get 35 bhp or more i wouldnt mind 40 if its possible but im not spending loads on the bike. + 40 bhp costs loads on an rs125 (there are a few that have done it) = but the point is mate it takes stupid amounts of money and will never ever get near a honda rs Listen to si! He speaks the truth(especially if you consider the cost element)! Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
si.likes.guiness Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 daves right and im not trying to put you off im speaking from experience as i raced a honda rs and would recomend anyone to buy one heres a pic of her before she got a bit battle scarred Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
intra Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 This is what you need. Fuck road-legal 125's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kawafookin636 Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 Did the same as yourself a few years back, 34mm carb, Arrow pipe, loads of weight loss, titanium and ally, etc. It gave a genuine 34 bhp at the back wheel, and I'd have been lucky to squeeze another horsepower out of it without spending a load more money. Spent ages with different jetting, etc, while trying to keep it realistically track rideable. The main way you're going to get effective gains ( not through more horsepower ) is basically by being light as feck, and being able to brake and carry corner speed like a demon! I'm no fatty either, 84 kg kitted up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin77 Posted February 13, 2009 Report Share Posted February 13, 2009 This is what you need. Fuck road-legal 125's. Erm....you know that's an SDR200 don't you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liamo Posted February 13, 2009 Report Share Posted February 13, 2009 Erm....you know that's an SDR200 don't you? Its an awesome little bike is what it is, but not in the same league as a TZ125. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffery_duke Posted February 26, 2009 Report Share Posted February 26, 2009 how to de-restrict a rs125 ________________________________________ CDI Derestriction The Aprilia RS125 comes with a CDI restriction. It retards ignition around 6000rpm so the bike can pass EU emission tests so they can be manufactured. This makes your bike perform very poor at 6000rpm and does not let the engine pull. When CDI replaced, now there will be no environmental dip between 5000-6000rpm. Full Power Derestriction The Aprilia RS125 can be restricted so its learner legal, and then derestricted to full power (claimed 33bhp). To do this you will need the following items: o RAVE controller o Powervalve blade o Solenoid o Cable If your RS125 is restricted then it will not get a significant power increase around 8000rpm. If you know the powervalve is installed but you are still not getting this increase ensure all parts are working correctly, connected, and the solenoid is set correctly. What does the powervalve do? The blade of powervalve goes in the barrel of the engine. This then moves up and down to increase and decrease the exhaust outlet size to give you different performances at different rev ranges. The more revs you give the bike the more the powervalve blade is pulled by the solenoid and opens the exhaust outlet. All a solenoid is, is an electromagnetic componet. Bbasically all you need to know is it pulls a cable which is connected to the powervalve blade to pull it out to increase the gap in the exhaust outlet. You must check your bike for the componets listed above. Your bike may be restricted via a blanking plate. (something like this, when taken off) You can see this by removing your right side fairing and looking above the exhaust. It will be a small plate and have 3 bolts along it (one either side and one in the middle). If you see a blanking plate then you will need to purchase the powervalve blade, mount, and other parts see parts diagram below... Your probably best getting a gasket for it too even though there is one on the blanking plate... you can reuse them but to ensure the bike performs well and you dont get any problems get a new one... Once you have aquired these parts remove your blanking plate and fit the powervalve into the bike. Note, the powervalve goes in one way! It has a tapered end on one side, this should face downwards, and the flat side of the powervalve blade should face upwards! Ensure you do this! If you can see the powervalve mount sticking out the exhaust then you will not need to purchase it of course and you will see something like this above the exhaust... Remove your tank... To the right of the battery there should be a solenoid which should have a cable connected on the end of it. The cable connects to the powervalve blade that goes into the engine that we looked at before. It should look something like this altogether... If you do not see the solenoid and/or cable then you will need to purchase these. Once you have purchase these parts mount them to the right of the battery, there is a place for it to be fitted, it goes on the part of the radiator frame that goes right next to the battery. If you see the solenoid and cable, and you see the powervalve mounted in the engine but your bike is not performing as it should... then it may be a case that the solenoid is not connected! If you look on the picture above there is a connector block on the end of the solenoid, see if this is connected, it connects to the main loom which runs along the right hand side of the bike from the front all the way to the back of the bike. If you connect it up and it does nothing then keep reading.... Remove the passenger seat and check for the RAVE unit. (just remove the two back side fairings and tail) If you cannot see this, then you will need to buy one of these and fit it to your bike. There will be a spare connector block coming out of the main loom were it should be connected to. Once you have fitted all these parts your bike should be derestricted!!! All you need to do now is to set your solenoid up correctly... It has adjuster nuts on it, so the cable can be adjusted. This is because the solenoid starts acting around 3000rpm (you can see the solenoid opening when you rev the bike to this with the tank off). The more the powervalve blade sits in the exhuast the better low range power you will have, but poor top end. This works vise versa. See how to adjust your solenoid below... You can also try first cheaper way - just cut off part of blade (only if you have this blanking plate), but there will be some problems: • Less power between 3000 – 7000 r.p.m. • It will guzzle more • You’ll need more throttle at low r.p.m. But after 8000 r.p.m. – full power WARNING: WHEN YOU DERESTRICT YOUR BIKE YOU WILL NEED TO CHANGE YOUR SPARK PLUG OTHERWISE YOU WILL BLOW A HOLE IN YOUR PISTON. Despite what the manual says, the spark plug to use when your bike is full power (powervalve installed) is a BR10EG. This is because the plug is colder. When your bike is restricted you should run a BR8EG. You can change these plugs for other versions e.g. Denso plugs, Iridium plugs for smoother running. Exhuast Derestriction The later bikes 2003 onwards have a CAT in the expansion chamber. In the expansion chamber not the end can. To get rid of this CAT which makes your bike perform differently, get an after market expansion chamber (best buying the end can with it) or buy an earlier expasion chamber from an RS125 or take the expansion chamber off and be prepared to cut it open, remove the CAT and weld it back together. If you are going to buy a different expasion chamber then you will have to rejet your carb. The bikes with a CAT in them are set to run rich (more oil) because the CAT requires the bike to run like this. Therefore you will need to buy a standard main jet for your carb. If you have a 28mm carb (finally got it right I normally say 26mm) then your standard main jet size is a 120. If your carb is a 34mm your main jet is more likely to be a 158(i think) You can get these for a couple of quid. This means taking your carb off and removing the old main jet, and replacing it with a new one. The racers tend to use the standard expasion chamber because it is thicker then aftermarket ones therefore contains the heat more, and these work better with more heat. They normally just change the end can. Removing your CAT (if your being a big man) You will need to take your expasion chamber off the bike (see manual if you dont know how) You need to cut your expansion chamber open where this fella is cutting it and where the white Once you have done this you will be able to remove the CAT Thats it really, dont know too much about it because I havent done it... Just weld your expasion chamber back up with the CAT removed, give it a respay (heat resistant of course) because they tend to rust like hell even if you dont ride your bike in the wet. The expasion chamber doesnt really have anything in it anyway if your thinking this was too simple. Literally just cut it open, remove the CAT and weld it back together. Some exhausts also have a recirculation tube that goes to the air box. You just have to cut this off and weld it up and seal up the air box. The snorkel in the air box can be taken out too, this will let some more air in slightly and make your bike sound a lot better. Just pull the rubber out the top, or you can cut the part that sticks out. This shouldnt affect your jetting since the bike is not jetted correctly from standard anyways. If you want to be sure stick a bigger main jet in (121 on a 28mm carb). Do a plug chop to confirm. To do a plug chop see the pinned topics... under useful RS125 information. Carbouretter The older bikes had a 34mm carb on. The new ones have a 28mm carb. I think it was the 98's that had the 34mm carb on then after that unless modified it was a 28mm carb. If you want better mid range power, and a better top end without affecting your petrol consumption too much get a 34mm carb. The petrol consumption is suprisingly good, it does guzzle more but you get that back in power! All you have to do is get hold of a Deloroto VHSB 34MM and a new inlet manifold because the original will be to small and then fit it onto your bike. The standard air filter will still fit this new carb. Well thats basically it. Your bike is derestricted... ----------------- pm me for same artile with pics need an italian cdi for full 34 hp ... uk cdi is 28 when derestricted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackday addict- Posted February 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2009 how to de-restrict a rs125 ________________________________________ need an italian cdi for full 34 hp ... uk cdi is 28 when derestricted All of thats done, 34mm carb, arrow zaust, powervalve. but whats this about the italian cdi ?. Btw had my bike on a dyno on saturday and it made 29.8 Bhp at the rear wheel good going eh ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B@W Posted February 26, 2009 Report Share Posted February 26, 2009 Erm....you know that's an SDR200 don't you? Now that would be a trick little scrathers road bike. I always keep an eye peeled for SDR200's but haven't seen one for sale for years Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willbloke Posted February 27, 2009 Report Share Posted February 27, 2009 SDR 200's are really tiny , I'd love one , but would look such a **** on one ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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