lorenzo Posted July 21, 2012 Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 The tank on the bros has got a handful of itty bitty little pinholes, not even visable to our human eyes, along the seal where the top meets the bottom half, along the edge. I know this, not because it's losing fuel, although it must be in tiny amounts, but because the paint lifted in little patches about the size of a fingernail all along the edge. Is it possible to try to fill these by applying a smear of either chemical metal or araldite along there do you think? If so, which is easier to sand back afterwards, i know araldite clogs wet and dry within about 2 or 3 rubs, is chemical metal the same? Then it's going to want a lick of paint. I've got some 1K lacquer, is this 'petrol proof'? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedy sie Posted July 21, 2012 Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 lead solder it up,use the oxide primer then good old lead bar to cover it over,dent the tank a bit to get a thin layer over it,was trained to lead load many year ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick.r Posted July 21, 2012 Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 1K laquer is so un petrol proof its not real mate !!! It wil titerally wash it off like you'd poured thinners on it ! Kreem, Petseal and POR 15 all supposedly do the job. Some swear by them, others have had all sorts of grief with the coating failing and blocking everything up good and proper. Unless its a really rare tank or funds are so tight a £15 pot of resin is the only option. Best replace the tank or if skills allow go down Sie's lead route, just be warned, lead loading is REALY fuckin hard if you dont know what your doing. If you can see the corrosion from the outside and its lifting the paint. The inside of the tank will be a sorry state in the nooks and cranny's you cant see from the filler ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedy sie Posted July 21, 2012 Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 must say,i was shown by a chap that he and his dad and his granddad were lead loaders in the english car trade,and spent 6 months with him learning,and must say he was one of the best craftsman i have ever seen...glad to have spent the time with him,its all about prep and heat,once you have mastered the getting it on there,then heat and wooden paddles soaked in oil,.. it a doddle,and also shown the old pannel file and how to dink and file,still use the panel file even today love to work metal and get dents out with out filler... but must point out to use lead load is very toxic and not to be done with out the proper safety wear!!! red checked shirt and dungarees are a must!!!.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick.r Posted July 21, 2012 Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 I was shown the black art by a chap who spent his life restored old brit cars too. He gave up on me being a lost cause dude. Must of been all the lead puddles I left around his workshop and my constant grizzling about it giving me a pounding headache !!! Those that can.... do. Those that cant, seek guidance from Mr Isopon P38 ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedy sie Posted July 21, 2012 Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 yep then i was shown there was two other that were shown just gave up,it does tack a lot of input from wot it happening with the lead,on the flat any one can do it,but on the up and upside down....then thats the skill,i to use to work in the clasic car trade this is were i was trained,once watched him de dent a full side in an e type jag,wing door and rear 1/4....no filler all lead and finished for primer...every one was utterly gob smacked,took him 2 days to do it aswell... http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3caa2e8158 bit dear but i bet you could find a kit cheeper,one of them things all should have a go at must point out its fook all like soldiering pipes,you get the lead to a point of flux,... no more !...then use the paddle to iron the lead in to shape,just keeping the lead in flux,to hot and the hole lot will just fall off.. the lead primer must put on right,good bare metal,no rust and a tad rough for best key for the primer but once you have go the knack of it,you will smile for ear to ear at wot you have got up to and on rusty tanks if done correctly as in remove all trace of rust it will never rust though in that area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted July 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 I did the whole electrolysis thing a few months back, then por15, along with the previous cleaning stuff they recommend too. So, is it possible to use araldite, for example? Cheers for the info about the 1k lacquer too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedy sie Posted July 21, 2012 Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 iv used epoxy's before,but must say iv never been keen on them as its a glue and even if put on as best you,can it does have a life span as the tank gets cold and hot and the natural tank flex and movement can undo the chemical bond and have the epoxy fail. if you want send me the tank and ill load it up for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted July 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 iv used epoxy's before,but must say iv never been keen on them as its a glue and even if put on as best you,can it does have a life span as the tank gets cold and hot and the natural tank flex and movement can undo the chemical bond and have the epoxy fail. if you want send me the tank and ill load it up for you. Cheers for the offer but I'm hoping to have it painted and back on the bike by tomorrow! What makes lead any more or less likely to break the chemical bond than araldite, for example, which is certainly as flexible as lead? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregtrx Posted July 22, 2012 Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 I've used areldite before and it's lasted well over a year. Hopefully it'll fail as one of the thieving scrotes is riding it, ignite via his cigarette and burn the fucker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedy sie Posted July 22, 2012 Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 Cheers for the offer but I'm hoping to have it painted and back on the bike by tomorrow! What makes lead any more or less likely to break the chemical bond than araldite, for example, which is certainly as flexible as lead? lead is so soft it bends with the metal,this is why it was used in the car trade to seal panel joints,next time you look at a 50's classic car try to find the panel joints(top end cars that is),i think RR still use the lead filled joints. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted July 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2012 Araldite is softer than lead though? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TriGGer Posted July 23, 2012 Report Share Posted July 23, 2012 Not once it's set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted July 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2012 Don't you interrupt, I'm busy winding Si up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superdunc Posted July 23, 2012 Report Share Posted July 23, 2012 Fuel will attack arraldite and break it down in to a soft goo, it's no more fuel resistant than paint . Sie is working for team south. He's absoloutly spot on about lead, it will seal the tank perfectly. Make sure you use at least 50kg to ensure a perfect seal. Glad you're repairing the Bros. Please send my best wishes to Alibongo, I hope he gets over this set back as quickly and painlessly as possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedy sie Posted July 23, 2012 Report Share Posted July 23, 2012 oh ....verey tyres been busy to day on ANOTHER SRAD 750.....RACE BIKE......how many srad have i built over the years????... after this one yep,... another one from bare frame up up,just like this one..witch started out as a bare frame.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted July 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2012 a soft goo, told you it was flexible... Wee dab of chemical metal on there now. Still needs a lick of paint, didn't do it in the end, I went and had a great time at donington instead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dansp1 Posted July 26, 2012 Report Share Posted July 26, 2012 I did the whole electrolysis thing a few months back, then por15, along with the previous cleaning stuff they recommend too. So, is it possible to use araldite, for example? Cheers for the info about the 1k lacquer too. Bilt-Hamber Deox-C is unbelievably good at stripping rust and doesn't mess paint up, Petro patch does what it says on the pack too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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