Weasel Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 Admission 1: I'm skint Admission 2: I'm an ethusiastic amateur mechanic with zero training Admission 3: I have a habit of starting jobs on the bike without researching the difficulty level. Q. Is changing the fork springs and oil a tricky job? I have a 2003 VFR Vtec and I've removed the forks before but have never "opened them up". I'm looking to firm up the front end and I can't really afford the labour costs a garage would charge me. The manual makes it sound quite easy but then again maybe that's my optimistic nature. So then.......Should I give it a pop? I don't have any other transport so I can't afford to have the bike off the road for more than 2 days. Help ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparx55 Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 Admission 1: I'm skint Admission 2: I'm an ethusiastic amateur mechanic with zero training Admission 3: I have a habit of starting jobs on the bike without researching the difficulty level. Q. Is changing the fork springs and oil a tricky job? I have a 2003 VFR Vtec and I've removed the forks before but have never "opened them up". I'm looking to firm up the front end and I can't really afford the labour costs a garage would charge me. The manual makes it sound quite easy but then again maybe that's my optimistic nature. So then.......Should I give it a pop? I don't have any other transport so I can't afford to have the bike off the road for more than 2 days. Help ! piece of piss mate, but if you re not sure take the forks to a mechanic, it's an easy job but the potential to cock up is ever real. best of luck Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liamo Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 Admission 1: I'm skint Admission 2: I'm an ethusiastic amateur mechanic with zero training Admission 3: I have a habit of starting jobs on the bike without researching the difficulty level. Q. Is changing the fork springs and oil a tricky job? I have a 2003 VFR Vtec and I've removed the forks before but have never "opened them up". I'm looking to firm up the front end and I can't really afford the labour costs a garage would charge me. The manual makes it sound quite easy but then again maybe that's my optimistic nature. So then.......Should I give it a pop? I don't have any other transport so I can't afford to have the bike off the road for more than 2 days. Help ! Changing the springs should be a piece of piss. Caps off, springs out, new springs in. 10 minutes tops. It was on my old Bandit 60 anyway. The oil is trickier. The proper way would be to take the forks out of the clamps, remove caps and springs and turn them upside down to empty them. Moving the stantion (sp?) in and out of the fork other bit* (oooh eeerr) will get most of it out. If I was going to bother taking the forks out I'd get a haynes manual, strip the forks and wipe any excess off the internal giblets* before reassembling the forks, filling with about 10% less than the recommended ammount of oil, check the air gap and top up as nessesary till you get the air gap recommended in the haynes. Cheapo handy botch waay would be to put the bike on the main stand, put weight on the back, remove fork caps and springs, measure the air gap in the bike as it is drain as much of the fork oil using a springe kit bought for a tenner off ebay, and replace with whatever ammount of oil it takes to get it back to the air gap you measured. That second method probably isnt worth doing to be honest. I reckon you can only get about 50% of the oil out with those syringe kits anyway. *Technical terms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bezzer Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 Fork legs off to drain the oil, you'll need to pump them and leave upside down to drain for a while to get rid of all you can, also the legs need to be vertical when you replace the oil to get the airgap right. Waste of time trying to measure the oil as there's always some left in there if you haven't fully stripped the forks, syringe and a piece of tubing marked to the correct airgap to draw out the excess will leave them spot on and the same height. Main thing to remember is to slacken the top caps a bit while they are still in the yokes, avoids damage and hassle as you're pissing about trying to hold them to loosen them off the bike. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weasel Posted January 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 Cheers peeps. Do I need to remove the damper to pump the shock in order to empty the oil? Or can I just remove the top nut and spring, turn upside down and pump ? I knew the wealth of knowledge in this place would give me the confidence I needed. I'm really keen to have a crack at it now ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liamo Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 Or can I just remove the top nut and spring, turn upside down and pump ? You should be able to just do this. Some oil will always be left in anyway. BTW old fork oil is one of the most disgusting smells known to man. Forewarned is forearmed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heds954 Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 All back together in a couple of hours (including having to take one fork out again cos I found a washer left over ). Oh shit, I forgot to mention I came round to yours on the Friday before but you weren't in. Anyway, turns out I've lost a washer that I had in my pocket, you haven't by chance found it have you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 You should be able to just do this. Some oil will always be left in anyway. BTW old fork oil is one of the most disgusting smells known to man. Forewarned is forearmed. I think you were more accurate in your previous description... Ah yes the smell of old fork oil. Just like an anchovi's minge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liamo Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 I think you were more accurate in your previous description... Why thank you, it made the quote thread, so it must be true. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 Only one other thing to mention is to get the socket that fits the top of the fork, rather than using an adjustable spanner or something, as you'll want to push down on it when putting it back on. Also, undo all preload etc from the fork top when you go to undo it, there'll be a bit of tension in the springs already, if you're not expecting it you could end up with a bit of a black eye! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparx55 Posted January 21, 2009 Report Share Posted January 21, 2009 Fork legs off to drain the oil, you'll need to pump them and leave upside down to drain for a while to get rid of all you can, also the legs need to be vertical when you replace the oil to get the airgap right. Waste of time trying to measure the oil as there's always some left in there if you haven't fully stripped the forks, syringe and a piece of tubing marked to the correct airgap to draw out the excess will leave them spot on and the same height. Main thing to remember is to slacken the top caps a bit while they are still in the yokes, avoids damage and hassle as you're pissing about trying to hold them to loosen them off the bike. Just to add to what bezzer says, theres a couple of other things to remember 1.wind the preload off fully before you start, that way you re fighting less spring tension 2. if you have rebound adjusers, wind that off too, to avoid forcing the needles when you re assemble. 3. after filling but before measureing, pump the damping rod about 20 times to work the air out of the cartridge, then go and have a brew and let any tiny bubbles settle, then pump again , 20 times or so. 4.when rebuilding, run the tops lock nut down a little, then run the forktops as far down the damping rod as they go then tighten the ock nut up to them, this is why i said run the rebadj out first, or you may force the needle into its seat, (done that, its a pain in the arse) 4. set up sags, set rebounds, set comps, job done If you fancy trying it, best of luck, if you re stuck, give me a call and I'll try and talk you thru it, 07816 514 522 Cheers Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weasel Posted January 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2009 Cheers for all the advice peeps but I finally decided to get an expert to do it for me. I got a bonus come through so I've booked my bike in to have some stiffer Hyperpro springs and oil fitted in the forks, seals and bearings changed and a nice shiny new Nitron rear shock slapped on the back. I can't wait to have it all fitted and I will hopefully notice an improvement. After speaking to some experts (as advised by many people on this lovely forum) I realised that to make a big difference in the forks I would need a revalve as the standard damping is the main problem. I couldn't justify this as well as a new shock so I've gone for a comprimise. The great folk at PDQ in Maidenhead were very helpful and gave honest, easy to understand advice. I'll let you know if their work backs up the talk. You will know if it goes well as if it does the VFR may even see some novice group track work ! (Nobody likes to be ridden around the outside of by a tourer!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparx55 Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 Cheers for all the advice peeps but I finally decided to get an expert to do it for me. I got a bonus come through so I've booked my bike in to have some stiffer Hyperpro springs and oil fitted in the forks, seals and bearings changed and a nice shiny new Nitron rear shock slapped on the back. Glad you got it sorted mate, but bugger me, I wish I was as skint as you. Stay safe, and if you can't be safe, have fun Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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