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My SP1 wont start!!!!! Help Please.


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Hi All,

I have a poorly SP1 (2000).

When I turn on the ignition, everything is fine.

Then when I press the start button the bike clicks like mad from the rear of the bike.

I first thought it was a low battery and that noise was the starter motor trying to engage but it isnt. The noise is coming from a switch assy just in front of the CDI unit on the left hand side of the bike which houses the main 30amp fuse. It is the this switch assy that is clicking. I have hooked up a car battery to the bike as if to jump start it but this makes no difference.

Is it the switch assy?

What is the switch assy?

Please help coz its MOT time soon and I want to play out :eusa_pray:

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Starter solenoid is goosed, or stuck. Sounds like it is goosed to me, as the sound you can hear is the 12v trigger voltage from the bar switch trying to make the solenoid open, but failing.

You can open it up if it has a rubber boot on it, and jump it by using a big screwdriver across the 2 big terminals. I had to do that on my GSXR11 for months until I could afford a new starter solenoid.

You could test it by getting a jump lead and connecting on e end to the +ve side of the battery, and the other to the terminal on the starter motor from the solenoid. Ignition on, she should spin and fire up.

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It is the starter solenoid.

However if I jump the positive and negative poles of the switch it just sparks and the electrics all die.

Should I jump it in a different way?

If I have eliminated the battery and checked every fuse then surely that only leaves the solenoid right?

Or am I being dumb!!!! Please feel free to throw insults as I answer to most things. ( Thats 12 years of marriage for you). :icon_bounce:

David Silvers is quoting £43+VAT for a new genuine starter solenoid.

Has anyone tried bump starting a high compression 1000cc V-Twin before? LOL.

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Try +ve battery terminal direct to starter +ve.

It should spin the starter. However, it might be best to fit a new solenoid first, that seems to be the root of the issue.

I used to have to bump my TLS, and that had a slipper clutch...... Was not easy, but it used to bump in 2nd or 3rd with a tow..

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Sussed it.

I bought a Varta YTZ12S-BS battery from MDS Batteries last year. However it seems that this 12v 9Ah/200EN standard battery cant hack turning over my bike when:

1. It is cold (Gel Batteries are shite when cold so I'm told).

2. The bike is a high compression V-Twin with a PCIII and Datatool alarm fitted.

There is a higher performance battery available called a YTZ14S-BS with the same dimensions etc but it pumps out 12v 11Ah/230EN. The price takes the michael though (£74 inc VAT and Del).

I guess I wont be on the road anytime soon as it is both my Wifes and eldest Daughters birthday this month. Ouch!!!!!

Case Closed. :eusa_whistle:

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Just a thought fella,

If it is the battery as you have stated, can you not charge it up and then try the bike?

I take it this battery that is currently fitted used to start the bike ok??

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Hey. I dont think the battery makes that big of a difference, I got a new one for my sp1 last winter and that was because i kept letting it go flat, i have since got one of them Oxford battery mate tings, starts every time, and cause you have an alarm on it, i would get one of them. It dose sound like you could do with a new solenoid,go for a new one though, buying something like that second hand might cause you problems.

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I fitted the new battery and it started within a millisecond. No problems.

The old battery just couldnt give out the current required to turn it over.

I allways have a Optimate IIISP fitted as soon as it is in the garage parked up.

I'm going to see if I have any come back under warranty with the old battery as it is only 12 months old.

Thanks for the help and ideas guys. :icon_salut:

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