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Brake Disc Skimmimg


sonic

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Before I troll the internet does anyone on here do disc skimmimg?i have a pair from a gt750 I'm restoring that need a clean up.

Would rather give the work to another forum user.

Mark.

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whats the diameter of them, im sure someone here could put them on a lathe for you, i can do car ones because i have a machine that was built to do it, dont think it would do bike ones though. id be careful that it doesnt end up under the min thickness though.

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Just because something is comes from the factory like that, doesnt mean it is the best way of doing something, normally it means it is the cheapest.

Considering the marks on a disc are radial, I would think they are not done on a surface grinder. Looks like the edge of the wheel is used not the flat.

Not tried turning a stainless disc, only cast iron ones, but I have been told the best way is to have 2 cutting tools facing each other the gap between them set to what you want to turn the thickness to and then face the disc (using the bolt holes to secure the job, obviously you couldnt hold it in a chuck this way. Even pressure on both faces would stop the distortion.

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All the race discs I've seen have had ground finish, so I'd say it's as good away as any to reface a warped disc. Unfortunatly the shape of many older discs doesn't lend it's self to surface ginding so the 2 tool method on a lathe with a fixture to hold them on th chuck is the way to go.

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They maybe circular ground on a surface grinder..................

Are they warped, or just need cleaning up (ie rusty) If its just rust, coarse wet and dry with wd40 or paraffin would do. If theyre warped, youre probably looking at the 2 tool in the lathe job.

Regards

Paul

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If they just need cleaning up a quick run round the block with a few applications of the brake'll sort it out, followed by a squirt of brake cleaner.

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They maybe circular ground on a surface grinder..................

Why would you do that? Its like using a rotary table on a mill to do a job that could be turned.

Using the full face of a surface grinding wheel means the disc is more likely to push off and not be flat once it has been machined.

As for the video, it is done by someone that has no knowledge of grinding or they would have known to turn the grinding wheel through 90 degrees and use the edge of the wheel to get them flat.

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One of the places I used to work, had a "surface grinder". I think it was called a Lumbsden, summat like that. You mounted a number of abrasive blocks into a rotary head. The job was clamped to a magnetic table.The head turned and was passed over the job (left - right) like surace grinding, but gave a rotary pattern.

This is what I meant by "rotary grinding on a surface grinder"

Why would you do that? Its like using a rotary table on a mill to do a job that could be turned.

You might not have a lathe?

Ive used a CNC mill to do roundy jobs on, cos it was easier and quicker...............

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Could you use a Lumsden grinder to do a disc? Only if it was a floating disc and you could remove the centre. The Lumsden you are describing sounds very rare, every one I have seen has a rotary table on it and as you do not have fine control on it you could not do a solid disc on the rotary. Look at the rotary pattern on any disc and it is easy to see it has been done around the centre of the disc.

As for the lathe comment, the video showed a grinding wheel set on a bed of a lathe with the disc in the chuck, but if the grinding wheel was set at 90 degrees to what is shown you would cut on the front edge of the wheel and everything would be square. Using the full face of the wheel as per the video, the disc could push off as you are applying more pressure to the disc.

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The disc in that video, looks supported all the way round, I can't see that pushing off and not being flat?

The set up is different, I'll admit to that, quite a clever idea if it works.

Or a waste of time if it doesn't!

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No

Only if you have shit under it before you start! Or if you let it get too hot whilst grinding.

Unless its bent before you start then thats another matter......................

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i have a disk facer that i use for cars which has 2 opposing cutters which take off material as the disk rotates, they can be set to do various widths haven't tried a bike disk yet though, does any one have an old disk they don't want so i can try it and see what happens?

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You can always try truing the disc by hand. I've done that on a few that had slight warps due to sticky calipers, serviced the calipers at the same time & never had anymore bother with them even under hard breaking but NOT track day use, your mileage may vary !

Removing material does not tru the disc unless you fully face both sides as per the car disc machine mentioned earlier. Bike discs generally don't have enough thickness for this, although your old ones might be 6-8mm thick I guess so may have enough meat.

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No

Only if you have shit under it before you start! Or if you let it get too hot whilst grinding.

Unless its bent before you start then thats another matter......................

i assume the reason he wants it ground is because it isnt flat in the first place!

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