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Quick Change Front Spindle Systems?


SAB

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Does anyone have any leads on shops or companies that offer a quick change system for the front? I'm all set on the rear, but I'd like to match the front.

I know Fabtech does them, but I'm short 9 firstborn's and a million dollars.

This would be for standard 2005 Yamaha R1 forks.

Thanks up front.

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You cant fit the ussual sprung QD system to the standard forks as you need the swivels for mudgaurd mountings that are incorporated in race forks. I've done a QD system similar to the one that Si reckons that he can post some pictures of, yeah porcine aviation. It still means that you'll have to come up with a clever way of fitting the mudgaurd and you'll need wide yokes. One of my first project threads on here showed this bike, but it may well have been back in .com days. I'll have a look for any photos.

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I'd appreciate seeing what you came up with Foggy.

I've a plan for the stock mudguard to allow the fork bottoms to swing out manually when the spindle is pulled.

There's a guy over here that modifies the stock 5vy spindle and offers an insert for the left fork leg.

I was just wondering if anyone else offered any options.

Here's his link for an R6

http://shop.fastfrankracing.com/Yamaha-R6-Front-Quick-Change-R6FQC.htm

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Think this is the only photos that I've got

Picture010.jpg

DSC00040.jpg

Picture011-1.jpg

What I did was work down from the wider yokes. Then I counterbored the right -hand fork leg about 5mm to make a lip, this I opened out forward so that the captive wheel spacer would sit in the remaining cup. From the left I inserted a counter-bored top hat, internally threaded for the spindle thread. By opening up the front of this top hat, I ended up with 1/2 cups each side allowing the wheel to come in from just above horizontal from the front. There's a bit of radiusing to do, but being just over horizontal stops the wheel dropping to the floor. Hope this is isnspiration.

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6e47b083.jpg

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Apologies for the crap pics, here is Honda's basic system for the Fireblade. Using a large top hat design on the LH fork leg with a large nut on the outside, and an inner thread to accept the spindle.

The downside with this is it wont hold the wheel in place without the axle, plus the calipers will still need to be removed, so really it's not that effective as a QD system, but then again, it's not really meant to be.

It's HRC kit, but for OEM forks, if you're running in Superstock class (with OEM forks of course) you're not allowed to run a modified axle. Ask Mark/Foggy and I how we know!! So as a £1200 kit this system is pretty useless to be honest in the racing world. The only other kit Honda do is for the Showa Superbike forks (rare as fook and very, very expensive). It's more of a SBK mod than Endurance, but with OEM forks it's neither here nor there. Unless they are allowed to run them in JSB I'm not sure.

You will find the vast majority of these systems are custom made by/for teams by the likes of FTR, Harris, Spondon etc, and cost big bucks. The above though is a relatively cheap option, to reduce the amount of parts you have to remove during a wheel change, and speed it up a little. I will be looking to have a pretty much identical system made this year for my CBR.

With the right machining equipment and knowhow you could do it yourself, but it won't be that easy to make a fully fledged QD system with OEM forks I wouldn't imagine....

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I've converted a set of R6 forks to a quick change system. I'll try to take some pictures. It is possible to do it without modifying the spindle but you'll need to machine the fork bottoms, at least on the left side. The biggest pain was making brackets to allow the mud guard to swivel, IIRC.

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Wow....That's massively helpful info. Huge thanks for taking the time to throw that up guys. I'm definitely giving it a go. I'll report back with what I end up with. :icon_salut:

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20061221image0005.jpg

set up of a world endurance bike...yumm,yummmm...just pop the wheel in and it is held in place(wheel has captive spacers),this set up had the extra wide track yokes,but they are now on my road srad....billet ones ...nice. :thumbsup:

like Mark pointed out they are set here a bit to high ,as i got them,but just over horizontal it nice,they had some rough endges here,but in the old lathe and a needle file and some cleem past they are bob on now.

ohlins fg7700 46mm sbk forks,that have later internals.

titanium spindle

titanium QD cups

all titanium bolts.

this set up was last used in 2004.....and started out in 1997...race forks all tell a story...and were upgraded to the last spec 46mm internal when they were last used and Mark pointed out they are a good set as these were mostly used to the point of looking rough and worn out,the mudguard ring has no free play still nice and tight may have even had new bottoms as no gravel rash are damage..

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Useful photo that and especially those drawings. In essence you want to put more meat into the top hat rims of parts 2&7 than counterbore and open out into cups.

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whats the significance of being able to turn the fork legs? surely you want them to stay put so they don't spin when you come to slot the wheel back in?

The calipers sit essentially inside the inner face of the rim don't they, so if you were able to pull the wheel out without them spinning they would foul the wheel.

The turning fork mechanisms endurance teams have are under tension by springs, so that when you pull the wheel out, the calipers flip outwards, and back inwards when you put the wheel in.

The only way you could do it without them turning would mean extra, extra wide yokes, and ridiculously offset calipers to clear the wheel. obviously this isn't really a somewhat elegant solution and may have a rather adverse effect on handling...

:)

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Damn...some absolute spindle porn.

Really appreciate the info. I copied it all into a word doc and saved the pics as well. ;)

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On our tz mono we ran dzus fasteners on the,mudguard, which allowed quick wheel changes on the paddock stand with warmers on etc.

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kinda self explanatory really should have looked at it properly first, so the spring loading pings it open as the wheels spacers are removed from the legs spacers, then pings back as the wheel is slotted home because of the shape of the spacers again, neat. how would be best to achieve this then or is it too much ag, i suppose if theres a spare pair of hands the legs could be turned.

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On our tz mono we ran dzus fasteners on the,mudguard, which allowed quick wheel changes on the paddock stand with warmers on etc.

Ideal solution, but won't get through scrutineering at International level. Well certainly not in WEC, mudgaurd must be bolted.

Simpler still is to just run without one :eusa_whistle: .

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20061221image0005.jpg

set up of a world endurance bike...yumm,yummmm...just pop the wheel in and it is held in place(wheel has captive spacers),this set up had the extra wide track yokes,but they are now on my road srad....billet ones ...nice. :thumbsup:

like Mark pointed out they are set here a bit to high ,as i got them,but just over horizontal it nice,they had some rough endges here,but in the old lathe and a needle file and some cleem past they are bob on now.

ohlins fg7700 46mm sbk forks,that have later internals.

titanium spindle

titanium QD cups

all titanium bolts.

this set up was last used in 2004.....and started out in 1997...race forks all tell a story...and were upgraded to the last spec 46mm internal when they were last used and Mark pointed out they are a good set as these were mostly used to the point of looking rough and worn out,the mudguard ring has no free play still nice and tight may have even had new bottoms as no gravel rash are damage..

If this is the front end going onto this years race bike(ahem)don't use the titanium spindle,outlawed by the acu.

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kinda self explanatory really should have looked at it properly first, so the spring loading pings it open as the wheels spacers are removed from the legs spacers, then pings back as the wheel is slotted home because of the shape of the spacers again, neat. how would be best to achieve this then or is it too much ag, i suppose if theres a spare pair of hands the legs could be turned.

Right, first off, a sprung system has way too many moving parts and fasteners for true reliability. Also the long lead in that you need to guide the wheel into place have a habit of fatigueing and dropping off, not ideal in the middle of an Endurance race! All these systems came about with the advent of side mounted stands that slip a lifting spike into a tube. mounted to the exhaust studs. These generally lift the front of the bike up quite high and the wheel man simply throws the wheel into the guides and pushes it home. The airgun man then rams the spindle in and makes it tight.

The simpler method of lifting the bike on hooks on the stanchions or under the bottom yoke leaves the spindle height at the bare minimum to roll the wheel out and back in again. As you refit the wheel, the wheel man guides the LH caliper (as seen from the riding position) with his right hand. The Gun mechanic wriggles the RH caliper by the banjo on the caliper and as long as the wheel is presented near as damn it straight, the whole job takes seconds.

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I'm guessing this is what you mean about the Suzuka bikes being too delecate and not very crash proof Mark? Essentially gizmos that don't save that much time in the greater scheme of things?

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You can get far by adjusting the front stand as Mark/foggy says and just having a set of mudguard brackets made, so the legs can swivel. And remember to make a U-loop over the wheel, or the mudguard will break first time you try to change the wheel.

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  • 1 month later...

Bit of progress...Left fork will have an insert that stays in place (held by the outer pinch bolt) while the spindle threads into it from the right. Inner pinch bolt on the left leg and the 2 on the right only get snug enough so that they don't back out. Still have to bevel the pads and figure out what I'm going to do to the mudguard to make it all work as it should.

Should arrive early next week. Success/bliss/fiery death may ensue.

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IMAG0345%20(Medium).jpg

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