chancho196 Posted October 8, 2011 Report Share Posted October 8, 2011 I'm changing the rear suspension linkage bearings and generally greasing everything up, and while the shock is out I'm considering having it rebuilt. Is this viable on the K6? Or a waste of money? Does it need to go to someone that specialises in race bikes only (as opposed to offroad suspension tuners)? I'll change the fork oil at the same time, but leave the internals standard. I'm really happy with the handling of the bike as it is, but just wondered what your views were. I've attached the pics of the tyres now. These are Michelin Power Pures with 2,700 miles on them (36 psi front and rear). Is this normal wear, or do you suspect worn/incorrect suspension settings or a tyre pressure issue? Road use only, in warm temperatures (Australian winter). Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
originalracingsnake Posted October 8, 2011 Report Share Posted October 8, 2011 Why 36 PSI in the back? OEM is 42, and for road riding I'd stick with it. Those tyres look in good nick though, not torn or ripped. I'll be interested to hear about how you got the shock out and did the bearings etc. It is a job I have been putting off on my K5. Shock revalve will be worth it as the std oil will be goo by now, and the regas will keep it controlled. Can't help you in respect to places to go, but a road rebuild seems to be sensible if you are not a track head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chancho196 Posted October 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2011 So the tyres look like they've worn well? I read so much about cold tearing and could never really tell the difference. And I take it the suspension must be somewhere near ok (settings wise), for this sort of wear pattern? I might put the rear back up to 42psi then. To be honest, I thought everyone dropped the rear down nowadays. It's not as if I ever carry a passenger. Thanks for your input ORS, I've also been putting off the swingarm work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rureadyboots Posted October 8, 2011 Report Share Posted October 8, 2011 I would nt put 42 in the rear it ll be like riding on granite. Especially seeing that you ride in Oz and you use your tyres properly! You must have some great roads near you. The tyres are wearing just fine they just look like they ve been use to ride enthusiastically Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chancho196 Posted October 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2011 Cheers fella, yes the roads around here are superb! I'll leave her as she is then. Freshen up the suspension and away to go! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
originalracingsnake Posted October 9, 2011 Report Share Posted October 9, 2011 I would nt put 42 in the rear it ll be like riding on granite. I must have an ignorant arse then! My K5 feels fine with 36/42, I'd imagine the shock is coping with the suspension, and not the tyre. Mind you, looking at the tyres in the OP, 36 looks like it has done no harm at all. Just waiting for the write up with pics now for the strip down..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chancho196 Posted October 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2011 Just waiting for the write up with pics now for the strip down..... Parts are ordered, the pics and info will be coming soon. The rear tyre has worn superbly, and it's the first time I've ever had the edges go before the centre (never used twin compound tyres before). The front is mullered though. Maybe the old single compund Pilot Powers would be better suited. I'd like to try the Pilot Road 2 or 3's for better mileage, but I'm uncertain if they have the same grip. Any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
originalracingsnake Posted October 9, 2011 Report Share Posted October 9, 2011 Parts are ordered, the pics and info will be coming soon. That would be great, following the thread with hope! I'd like to try the Pilot Road 2 or 3's for better mileage, but I'm uncertain if they have the same grip. Any thoughts? I ran Pilot Road 2CT's last year in winter and summer and they were superb. This winter I'll be using a Road rear and Power front. That is supposed to be the ideal pairing. I've also used Dunlop Roadsmarts, and Avon Storms. My preference would be: Michelin, Dunlop, Avon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rureadyboots Posted October 9, 2011 Report Share Posted October 9, 2011 I must have an ignorant arse then! I never ment to be funny like! I use pilot road 3's on my K5 and they ve got enough grip for anyone on the road bar John McGuiness etc.. Touring tyre my arse! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chancho196 Posted October 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 Cheers lads, Pilot Road 3's are $450 a pair, so if they last longer, might be worth the investment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
originalracingsnake Posted October 10, 2011 Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 I never ment to be funny like! I use pilot road 3's on my K5 and they ve got enough grip for anyone on the road bar John McGuiness etc.. Touring tyre my arse! I knew that! LOL. You are right about the "Road" Michelins though, I never, ever found a lack of grip apart from 1st gear, cold damp road and tyre and provoking it to spin up. I never got caught out, and the tyres lasted me nearly 7k miles. Both wore out at the same time though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chancho196 Posted October 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2011 Special tools arrived from the UK today! Now I just need the parts and... time. Regarding the tyres, the Pures will spin up slightly when you're on it, in second coming out of bends (especially where the road surface changes). I live on a mountain and the road is superb for 7km. The bike never really gets out of shape and, when it does move out on you, feels controlled and nice (GSXR's, making us feel like real racers ). I think I will try the Road 3's. I just need them to last longer because I can't afford to change them so often nowadays. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
originalracingsnake Posted October 13, 2011 Report Share Posted October 13, 2011 Special tools arrived from the UK today! Now I just need the parts and... time. Which tools did you order, was this for the linkage bearings? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chancho196 Posted October 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 I ordered the engine, swingarm and steering stem socket. Don't need the engine one (yet), but thought it would be nice to have the lot. Very reasonable money, superb quality and quick delivery to me out here! They fit perfectly too, not loose at all. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/300597848427#ht_500wt_1413 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monkey Posted October 14, 2011 Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 Tyres look nicely worn to me, the back looks especially smooth, looks like you've had a good play on the roads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedy sie Posted October 14, 2011 Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 I'm changing the rear suspension linkage bearings and generally greasing everything up, and while the shock is out I'm considering having it rebuilt. Is this viable on the K6? Or a waste of money? Does it need to go to someone that specialises in race bikes only (as opposed to offroad suspension tuners)? I'll change the fork oil at the same time, but leave the internals standard. I'm really happy with the handling of the bike as it is, but just wondered what your views were. I've attached the pics of the tyres now. These are Michelin Power Pures with 2,700 miles on them (36 psi front and rear). Is this normal wear, or do you suspect worn/incorrect suspension settings or a tyre pressure issue? Road use only, in warm temperatures (Australian winter). Thanks in advance. nice tyre wear,looks a lot like my rears when they have had a going over,looks like you are nice fulid rider,and have the bike set up for your riding.nice may be a tad to much rebound on the rear or do you open up early after the apec/exit.i got 800 miles out my Michelins.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chancho196 Posted October 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2011 Cheers lads. As I said, I've seen so many pictures of tyres and people have told them it was cold tear etc. and wanted to know. At least I know I can keep the suspension standard (except for flush/oil change) and grease the pivots. Where's my bits? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chancho196 Posted October 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2011 UPDATE: Steering head bearings were shot (it was to be expected) and once apart, I was amazed to find that Suzuki use ball races! Anyway, the old 32006 taper roller is a direct replacement so they went in with original seals today. Job jobbed. The forks... I'm glad my dad is visiting at the moment because this was a mission! I wanted to strip them, clean them out, replace the seals and fill with fresh oil. Easy? It bloody well should be. Took the one apart, now need special tool to compress spring. Made tool, now need a bar with a slot cut out to hold spring while removing top (the preload adjuster). Sorted. Or so I thought. Cleaned everything, including the cartridge, fitted a new seal then tried to compress the spring to refit everything. FUCK! In the end, rope was needed on one side of the tool (down to the axle bolt which was re-inserted), while a ratchet strap was used on the opposite side. We got there in the end, but it was a lot of hassle and I think my dad feared his nuts were going to be launched into orbit by an angry spring! Doing the other one tomorrow - time permitting. Pilot Road 3's are now fitted on the rims so, with the suspension working as it should, the old K6 should be a useful bit of kit when finished. Also, the new parts have arrived, but I haven't even had chance to start on the back end yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GixxerTim1000 Posted October 25, 2011 Report Share Posted October 25, 2011 Ive got GSXR 1000 k6, i use it for track days and fast road. At the start of the year i went to Snetterton and had a few issues with the front end, nothing serious just a lack of rebound damping. I did some internet research and one name kept coming up, MCT. To cut a long story short, i had the front a rear both standard kit, serviced and revalved. What ive ended up with is suspension that reacts to every single click of adjustment, and handles spot on for road and track! It wasnt exactly cheap £450 but jesus was it worth it. Turned a good bike, into the best bike i have ever owned and will now probably never sell. Darren even advises the best tyre pressures to run on. Get yourself down there.............. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chancho196 Posted November 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2011 UPDATE: Sorry for lack of photos regarding the best bits. Once I got into it, I found it a pain in the ass to keep taking pics with oily hands etc. So, I changed the following: 1) Steering Head Bearings for taper rollers - 32006 from any bearing supplier. 2) Fork oil (5W) and the seals while they were apart, although they weren't leaking. (Buy decent seals!) 3) Every rear suspension linkage bearing, and the 4 bearings in the swing arm. Slight play in all, although I was surprised to find they still had grease in them. 4) Chain buffer on the swing arm (old one torn and worn out). 5) Oil in steering damper (10W). Time consuming to bleed, but worthwhile. 6) 5mm shim under top shock mounting (apparently quickens steering - worth a shot). 7) Michelin Pilot Road 3's fitted. 8) Oil and filter, thermostat and coolant, spark plugs, air filter and breather gauze. 9) Sprocket carrier bearing and cush drive rubbers. The shock will have to stay as it is for now because of money and the fact that it's working ok. (I also painted the swing arm because of scratches off my boot when using the sidestand - this should more than make up for any lack of performance in the shock absorber department) I also had to make a couple of tools to do the forks, as seen in the pictures, but when I have time I will make a spring clamp like the Racetech item because, quite frankly, doing those forks without it is a prick! Having put the forks together the first time with seals I bought on eBay, I was naturally over the moon when, after a week of standing, the right one began to leak! I did in fact take it for a quick shake down run to make sure the rest of the bike was ok and then the left one came out in sympathy. Seals now purchased from a dealer and another strip of those wonderful forks later, and I think we've cracked it! I hope. Here's a couple of pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chancho196 Posted November 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2011 Took her for a good blast around this morning and it feels great. The tyres seem fine and a lot of the jerkiness has gone since sorting the cush drive. The bike falls over in a much more mellow way compared to before and feels as though it wants to lean over and then lean some more. A bit different to those Power Pures which went over quick, but then felt slightly iffy (could just have been wear). So for now I'm happy. Valve clearances soon and throttles synchronised. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.