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No Lights-no Start-good Battery


kwakbiker

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Right then tech bods...please help. Yesterday took off the tank on my 94 ZZR600 to check on airfilter and plugs, airbox lid off only, bit of a spray of FS365 on back of engine ready for winter. All back together, quick check of ignition switch, showing neutral/oil light on dash. Half hour later, off to work, key on, pressed starter and something went click.....lost all lights(stop/tail/head/side/dash) and nowt on the button, seat off quick, check fuses, all fine including main 30amp.....took car to work :eusa_wall:

Today stripped tank and airbox off expecting it to be the white connector block under airbox, multimeter on, ign off showing a nice 12.8v, soon as you turn ign on, drops to around 2.5v and loose dash lights(kept head/tail off), jiggled wires around, got bottom of ign off, checked that, unplugged right cluster to rule out starter button/lights, same result, same with left cluster unplugged, no change 12+v to 2ish when ign turned on, maintains volts either side of block connectors from main loom to ign wiring and at ign switch when in my hand. When it dumps its volts you can see them coming back up slowly maybe .2 or .3 at a time and dash lights correspondingly get brighter, get back to 12v+, press starter and she's off again with a click of starter relay and volt drop, loss of lights.

Had a look at battery, all connections tight, checked earth points I can find, all in good nick(bike is very tidy for 17.5 years old and just under 30k(11k of which ive done), wiring from connector block to ign switch seems fine

Any ideas before start unwrapping the loom as im guessing she's shorting somewhere...help :blush:

Sorry for the long write up but I know its hard when being described to so went for all info possible :ph34r:

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You say your bettery is ok, but is it? How old is is?

Try putting your multimeter on the battery when you turn ignition on..

sounds as though the battery is naffed.

You turn the key (asking for power) and the volts drop,so you are losing power.

try another battery.. :thumbsup:

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had ruled the battery out due to the sudden onset of the prob and the fact its holding its volt fine till the key is turned, sometimes get lucky and it stays at over 12v till the start button is pressed, did try another fuse box as well to rule that out, might try another ignition switch just in case but will have a nosey at the battery, only 12months old..bloody electrickery

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forgot to say, if u let the volts climb bak to 12plus after turning on thats when it dumps them pressing the starter, them volts are going somewhere grr

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forgot to say, if u let the volts climb bak to 12plus after turning on thats when it dumps them pressing the starter, them volts are going somewhere grr

Yeah coz its a duff battery mate..

Think about it.. battery says 12.6 volts, you turn key and nothing.. all juice gone in one hit..Battery recovers, volts rise,, hit starter and back to square one again.

You need to do a load test on your battery.If that drops below 9 volts its naffed. If the battery has been left outside in the winter it could have got frozen and that will cut the life of the battery.

Something else.. It might be that your starter is stuck.As you said you heard a click.This would cause lights to dim/go out if it is stuck. Take it off the stand and pop it in 2nd gear and rock it backwards and forwards,then put it back into neutral..Turn on ignition.If you have lights on dash hit starter.If it don't start check/charge battery.

You can also tap the starter with a bit of wood while hitting the starter..

Keep us informed :thumbsup:

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cheers budget, ill a have double check on battery, bike is used all year so no layup time, starter will be checked

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Could be all sorts of things, iffy solenoid, iffy battery or ify starter motor. Get some jump leads and another battery. First of all, take one of your jump leads, attach it to the positive on the bike and then dab it onto the starter motors cable where it comes from the solenoid. Best leave it out of gear for this test... If it spins then you're solenoid is duff. If it doesn't then get your 2nd battery. It it's the one in the car, it should spin the starter like a mo fo, but long term it's not a good idea letting it have that much current, so this is a once or twice only test, OK. With the known good battery, hook the negative to your bikes own battery negative terminal and then ideally do the same thing with the jump lead to starter, but this time with the positive coming from your new battery. If the starter spins then you know you've a good motor, try the new battery hooked up on both terminals to your old battery, thus going through the solenoid, and see if you get any joy there.

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Quick update, been in the garage this morning(joy of working shifts ;) ), tested starter relay/solenoid...works fine(found a how to test in the haynes as well as Lorenzo's very good guide :thumbsup: ), tested starter motor from car battery, works fine.....tested from bike battery.....nowt, so looks like Budget was on the money with the battery being fooked after all(tested starter motor with the car battery linked with the bike battery and got it to work as well), looks like my tinkering around was just a red herring and the battery was shot, so off to the bike shop in a bit to get a new un and then fingers crossed ill get her started.....if not least I can rule out the battery :blush:

Positives........now happier dealing with electrical faults and know my bike a bit better :rock:

negatives........dont overlook the simple stuff cos something is telling you otherwise :blink: .....this may not be true shortly though if new battery doesnt get it started ;):eusa_pray:

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Quick update, been in the garage this morning(joy of working shifts ;) ), tested starter relay/solenoid...works fine(found a how to test in the haynes as well as Lorenzo's very good guide :thumbsup: ), tested starter motor from car battery, works fine.....tested from bike battery.....nowt, so looks like Budget was on the money with the battery being fooked after all(tested starter motor with the car battery linked with the bike battery and got it to work as well), looks like my tinkering around was just a red herring and the battery was shot, so off to the bike shop in a bit to get a new un and then fingers crossed ill get her started.....if not least I can rule out the battery :blush:

Positives........now happier dealing with electrical faults and know my bike a bit better :rock:

negatives........dont overlook the simple stuff cos something is telling you otherwise :blink: .....this may not be true shortly though if new battery doesnt get it started ;):eusa_pray:

My guess is a new battery and it will start. :thumbsup:

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My guess is a new battery and it will start. :thumbsup:

and she did....first press. Before i did fire her up I checked again the voltage on the new and old battery, both very similar(as in .3v difference), guess a cell in the battery shat itself.....shame it happened at the same time I was taking her to bits, could of cut a load of hassle out lol

Cheers to all those that imparted some wisdom on the subject :icon_salut:

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and she did....first press. Before i did fire her up I checked again the voltage on the new and old battery, both very similar(as in .3v difference), guess a cell in the battery shat itself.....shame it happened at the same time I was taking her to bits, could of cut a load of hassle out lol

Cheers to all those that imparted some wisdom on the subject :icon_salut:

Glad its sorted mate :thumbsup:

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