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That Honda 929RRY *Issue* The 4 that became a twin.


Bernster

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Well Ronenige came around and being the mega-mechanic he is, (and now so totally understand why he won World Yamaha Technician of The Year twice) - spotted the problem using a straw from a can of GT85 and a 12mm socket.

Everything came off, then some more came off....

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Some bit's came out, then went back in again.

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Hopefully it'll be 'fire-up-time' tomorrow evening, we'll hopefully see then if the *issue* has been fixed. One things for sure, one thing was found to be wrong which is now rectified. Hope that's the cause of the problem.

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well i love the shots of cams, thats always lovely

but what was the problem?

So far, the timing looks like it's slipped a couple of teeth. Fingers crossed it is just that, but regardless there was at least one problem found and rectified.

Next plan is to locate a quality APE manual camchain tensioner after it's been fired up with the existing, cheap, Honda one fitted to see if 'that' is the issue. :eusa_pray:

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And there's a reason why the vtec VFRs got them back: cost cutting...

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Honda CCT's are utter toss - I've had over a dozen 'ondas since 1988 and they've on the whole (touch wood) have been very reliable, the only thing that has been a constant fail is the CCT's (on all the CBRs), oh and the batteries are too small.

I've an APE CCT to go on my cbr6rr7, hopefully I'll avoid having any CCT issues with this bike :beerchug:

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I think the camchain tensioner is still ok, (swapping it for a manual one when either of the two UK suppliers of the APE devices return my calls / emails) - but chance it I will not.

I think the *massive* explosion from the crank case fumes being ignited by the old Honda stator issue might have caused the weak-ish tensioner to allow the chain to jump a couple of teeth.

It would have been a big explosion as in the workshop at 4,000rpm the flame produced was a good few feet long and bloody loud, at 120mph+ when it slipped I bet the flame in the airbox was a tad larger. :)

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steely glint in eye on> Cold hard cash only <steely glint in eye off

If you ever need a man to shell peanuts, i'm not the man you're looking for...

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When you come to putting the cam back, wont thre be a set of valves that will be required to be open by the cam? 3 sets may be shut, but one set will have to be pushed back open, right? So my worry is about how to go about tourqing up the bolts of the cam holders in such a manner that you dont mess anything up. Will the valves that need to be opened open easily as you do up the bolts?

Short answer: Yes, there'll be valves to push down.

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As it's mechanical, won't the action of the engine being spun close the valves needed to be closed by actuation of the cam revolving full circle and vice versa when no force is being pushed against the opposing valves, hence the opening valves will be forced open by the spring? Thus nothing needs to be done.

Ronenige will now this if it's applicable anyhoooow.

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Yes certain cam lobes do push down on the valves its all good,just make sure the cam caps are seating correctly and locating on the dowels.Also ensure you do the caps up in a criss cross pattern keeping it even as we've had a few people do them up unevenly and break them!usually cbr 400's:(

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Did the valve clearances on the GS today, on 3 of the cam caps there's 1 bolt with the thread stripped, only 1's got all 4 left. And that was when I took the covers off, it wasn't me guv, honest...

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Yes certain cam lobes do push down on the valves its all good,just make sure the cam caps are seating correctly and locating on the dowels.Also ensure you do the caps up in a criss cross pattern keeping it even as we've had a few people do them up unevenly and break them!usually cbr 400's:(

+1

I have a mate with a snapped Yoshi cam due to this very thing and he is normally uber carefull.

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I give in! :eusa_dance:

I Fking HATE Honda's. Don't come near me this week if you have a Honda, I will eat it! AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!

Hours spent doing things up, putting gaskets on, taking them off again, I can't take anymore..... please stop this tortue that is Honda ownership.

Sensible offers accepted for 'the steaming pile of dog turd".

*sigh* That is all.

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I've got a puppy on the way and works getting heavy so I haven't got much more time to put into this.

Possibly cam chain tensioner related and the exhaust valve side of things has slipped a tooth again or it's a CDI issue, (strange though as all the coils spark in the correct pattern, so might be fuel injection side of the program).

It's pretty much bang-on the money if it wasn't for this issue so I'll stick it on eBay for £2,000. If I can't get that for it It will rot in the garage until I get some time which won't be for a good few months.

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Might wanna check that cam chain, if its gone too slack or something

It looks fine, the tensioner might be a tad week but snaps back viciously enough but then again that doesn't show it's pressure capabilities.

I reckon I'll have to ship off the CDI and key to that Carmo Electrics to get tested, 64Euro for a test and 200Euro for repair . . .gulp!

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FFS, get hold of a degree wheel and a DTI and turn the engine over and check the cam timing and valve lift against the crank position before you start throwing money at an, IMO, unnecessary test.

It's not a CDI, it's and ECU and they are as tough as old boots. I recovered a stock Honda one from the lake at Oulton after a SS bike crashed its' brains out and large chunks of it went swimming and the ECU worked fine.

How on earth is the ECU going to have anything to with what was found on the vacuum on the TB's? It's a mechanical timing or compression issue.......

FFS, get hold of a degree wheel and a DTI and turn the engine over and check the cam timing and valve lift against the crank position before you start throwing money at an, IMO, unnecessary test

>Done already.

How on earth is the ECU going to have anything to with what was found on the vacuum on the TB's? It's a mechanical timing or compression issue.......

>I've read incidents of CDI's sending spark info to coils but not the necessary info to fire fuel. Everything else has been checked and a number of professional mechanics have said other than an exorcist it wouldn't be a bad idea at getting it checked.

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give it to me and let me burn it/ride it as a twin.

thought the top man had it in hand?

go for a blast on the BM and life will be good again and sling a dust sheet over the 'onda!

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keep your eyes peeled for a 2nd hand one that you can sell on if need be, or better still, get an arrangement with a breakers that you pay in full then get a 90% refund when you give him his back, just for testing?

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give it to me and let me burn it/ride it as a twin.

thought the top man had it in hand?

go for a blast on the BM and life will be good again and sling a dust sheet over the 'onda!

He's looking at it and found an issue which we thought we’d fixed but he's understandably a busy fellow and I'm just getting bored of the pile of turd now. (would be steaming turd if all four cylinders got warm).

I'm tempted to thrash it's little underperforming arse off by thrashing it to work and back on two cylinders. It's fking slow in that trim mind, but knowing I'm hurting it kind of makes me feel better about the whole thing :icon_bounce:

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In which case, have you tried running it while squirting in some "easy start" to see if the other cylinders then fire?

Rich.

Mechanic #1 did yup! :icon_bounce:

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Look, an ECU (not a CDI) not firing the injectors is NOT going to cause the vacuum readings that have been reported.......end of.

Whether a cylinder is sparking or fuelling is irrelevant to the inlet manifold pressure, if you spin a 4 stroke engine at a given rpm the inlet manifold pressure - at the same throttle opening - will be the same (ignoring the very slight exhaust gas scouring effect if other cylinders are firing and there are balance pipes on the exhaust) whether the spark plug is firing or the injector is injecting.

The vacuum comes from a pressure differential between the cylinder and atmosphere.

I would be willing to bet a significant quantity of money that the ECU is fine (which can be simply proved by sticking it on another bike of the same model and seeing whether that one develops the same symptoms - try the owners forum and see if anyone on there who is local will let you try it out...) and you've got a mechanical issue.....

It's HISS, so you can't just swap em. Who's reported something about vacum? This might help out.

*Edit: Buy it off me for £2K, fix it, sell it on for a bit more. :icon_blackeye:

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Seriously dude!

Oh! Them ones. It's not doing that since the 'ex' valve timing line was matched with the inlet one, but it persists with only two cylinders though.

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If it had cam timing issues which are now corrected but still has compression issues, does this not make you think it now has bent valves or a seating problem.

As Mille says, a leak down/compression test AND cam timing check before anything else.

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