gsxr renegade Posted September 2, 2010 Report Share Posted September 2, 2010 In the next few days, i should (provided i win the stuff on ebay) be needing to do a complete front end swap. i.e. both forks, top & bottom yoke, steering stem & bearings. Now, i'm OK with a set of spanners, no BSB mechanic, but i comfortably checked the valve clearances on my old bike. I've never done anything like this before though, and just wondered if anyone had any tips as to the best way to go about it? It'll be arriving as a complete front end, so is it best to just slot it in as a complete unit, or to put the top and bottom yoke in separately, then put the forks in? Will i need any special tools for the job? I've got a slide hammer with a bearing puller attachment, will that be enough, and then just smack the other bearing out using a 'highly specialised drift' (read: giant great big screwdriver) Any advice greatly appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jollygiant Posted September 2, 2010 Report Share Posted September 2, 2010 You'll be needing THIS..... And THIS..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaighn80 Posted September 3, 2010 Report Share Posted September 3, 2010 what are you taking out/putting in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsxr renegade Posted September 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2010 what are you taking out/putting in? Taking out both suspension forks, top and bottom yokes, steering stem and bearings, then putting in a new set of all of that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaighn80 Posted September 3, 2010 Report Share Posted September 3, 2010 sorry i meant make and model or are they the same? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsxr renegade Posted September 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2010 sorry i meant make and model or are they the same? Ah my bad! yeah, exactly the same make/model. I've damaged the ones in there at the mo, so i'm taking them out and putting non-bent ones in! edit: It's a 4xv R1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsxr renegade Posted September 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2010 Do you have a workshop manual? If so, then follow that, especially in relation to the order of tightening up the yokes to ensure that the forks aren't twisted. Not yet, but i think it might be a good idea to get one to have as a reference! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evilchicken0 Posted September 3, 2010 Report Share Posted September 3, 2010 So your just swapping one for another it's just a case unbolting the old and bolting up the new. Provided the headstock wasn't damaged it should be easy enough, you might even get away without swapping the headrace bearings provided they're not damaged. If your drifting new bearings in thn use a big socket of the same diameter agianst them or go round the bearing at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock until they're home. It's easier to fit the triple clamps first then put the forks in if your on your own, otherwise you have to hold the forks and lower clamp while you fit the C nut. I assume it's a castle nut .... you'll need a Hook or C spanner for that bit go to the tool shop and get the right size if you haven't got one, don't use a screwdriver or drift. The C nut doesn't have huge torque and it's easier to check the bearing is tight when the forks are in the bottom yoke. Do it all up a bit at a time and use a torque wrench for the pinch bolts or you'll crease the forks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted September 4, 2010 Report Share Posted September 4, 2010 If you're replacing the bearings, getting the one off the bottom of the yoke is going to be, by some distance, your biggest nightmare ever. Tough, unless you've got an angle grinder. Use plenty of heat if you can, it helps a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedy sie Posted September 4, 2010 Report Share Posted September 4, 2010 iv made mt self a bottom stem bearing spliter/puller,out of two pieces of 25 mm key steel,50mm long then drilled both ends for a bolt to go through,then groung the key steal in the middle to a chisle shape,only grinding the top half to a triangle shape,this splits eny head bootom bearing off,no broblem,no chisle and hamer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ccubed Posted September 4, 2010 Report Share Posted September 4, 2010 sounds interesting any chance of a photograph or sketch Splitter drawing iv made mt self a bottom stem bearing spliter/puller,out of two pieces of 25 mm key steel,50mm long then drilled both ends for a bolt to go through,then groung the key steal in the middle to a chisle shape,only grinding the top half to a triangle shape,this splits eny head bootom bearing off,no broblem,no chisle and hamer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsxr renegade Posted September 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2010 Right, the rebuild is coming along nicely, and i've got a new set of yokes coming in the post (hopefully today). My question is this,the yokes are arriving without bearings, so i'm gonna order a set. Is it best to go with the conventional ball type bearing, or are the roller bearings better for use in the headstock? I might have made it up, but i think someone mentioned that roller bearings were better in this instance than ball bearings? Or does it make any difference at all? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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