the srad air box mod.....

[speedy sie]

fist fo all send the miss's out for the morning,put on some tunes you like,may be a bear,calm your self down,as working on your srad sould be a zen moment of pure harmoney,man and mechine,all sitting to squire comfertabaley on your bottey

,then ill begine

1,remove the tank as this is a lot easer.

2,open the air box up,and remove the fillter.

3,now read carfully as you can fuck up big time....

a,with a dremal,or better an air hack saw,cut the air vale out,the object is to cut round the inside of the air fillter seal resess,start at the front and work round to the back,once cut out then pull the air flap off,you can do this first as it makes it easer,leave the air flat actuater in place,does no harm.

b,this is the most important part,the seal when cut out does not go all the way to the back,put your hand under the were the air flap is and you will feel that the air fillter seal is actualy about 5mm in fromt the under side of the air box back,dont cut all the way back to the rear of the seal,as you will cut the rear lower part of the air box

c,once you have removed this part,then clean up the edge as close to the air box seal lip,and the job is done,the air fillter can now be put back in and it wiil still seal on wot is left of the seal lip in the air box.

d,on injrction srad's you will have to have the fueling reset up,no need for a pc..just tack it to your local suzuki dealer and they can remap the fueling,as for the carbed model a dyno visit is needed.

once done the bike will rev up quicker,and doed add a bit more top end,a respoket is the best deal to get the graring right.

my next mod is a full middle section removel,you can see wot i mean when you have done this mod,i will remove the compleat middle section,and run no air fillter,as in the kit/factory set up.

this mod is the beat 1/2hr you can spend with your beloved srad.

mod can also be done on the tl..

this mod still uses the standered ram tube set up,but for the next inductuion mod,you will need a set of full lenght ram tubes,mentalslider do a set of the yoshey kit ram tubes that go in to the air box(i think they do you will have to ask daz),thses go through the frame and into the air box,no rubber needed,as in the factory set up.

once all this done the bike will be a difrent bike,and the air box does growel.

[originalracingsnake]

It is like reading the instructions from a Chinese made gadget.

Also, the TL does NOT respond to having its airbox fucekd about with. You need a Sam Mathewman box, or a Terry Shep one. Dicking with the std one does fuck all except make more noise. Which is nice, but if you are after a performance gain on the TL, forget it.

[sennidott]

It is like reading the instructions from a Chinese made gadget.

Also, the TL does NOT respond to having its airbox fucekd about with. You need a Sam Mathewman box, or a Terry Shep one. Dicking with the std one does fuck all except make more noise. Which is nice, but if you are after a performance gain on the TL, forget it.

Pot, kettle, black...

Get a grip ffs!

[Conica]

Give Sie a break, Dyslexia isn't something you choose to have

[krazyk]

I've got both mods on mine, it makes a big difference

above 6k. Yoshi mapped ECU takes care of the

changes.

Two small things from Sie's warning when cutting out,

Injection box

if you look towards the back of the air filter seal

you can see 4 rings running across the base, dont cut

more than halfway back, best is to cut to the front of

the rings and then Dremmel the rest out,

this also gives you a bit of room to clean up the cut

and Bevel the edges.

Don't forget the airbox frame seals.

[ringdingtim]

fist fo all send the miss's out for the morning,put on some tunes you like,may be a bear,calm your self down,as working on your srad sould be a zen moment of pure harmoney,man and mechine,all sitting to squire comfertabaley on your bottey

,then ill begine

1,remove the tank as this is a lot easer.

2,open the air box up,and remove the fillter.

3,now read carfully as you can fuck up big time....

a,with a dremal,or better an air hack saw,cut the air vale out,the object is to cut round the inside of the air fillter seal resess,start at the front and work round to the back,once cut out then pull the air flap off,you can do this first as it makes it easer,leave the air flat actuater in place,does no harm.

b,this is the most important part,the seal when cut out does not go all the way to the back,put your hand under the were the air flap is and you will feel that the air fillter seal is actualy about 5mm in fromt the under side of the air box back,dont cut all the way back to the rear of the seal,as you will cut the rear lower part of the air box

c,once you have removed this part,then clean up the edge as close to the air box seal lip,and the job is done,the air fillter can now be put back in and it wiil still seal on wot is left of the seal lip in the air box.

d,on injrction srad's you will have to have the fueling reset up,no need for a pc..just tack it to your local suzuki dealer and they can remap the fueling,as for the carbed model a dyno visit is needed.

once done the bike will rev up quicker,and doed add a bit more top end,a respoket is the best deal to get the graring right.

my next mod is a full middle section removel,you can see wot i mean when you have done this mod,i will remove the compleat middle section,and run no air fillter,as in the kit/factory set up.

this mod is the beat 1/2hr you can spend with your beloved srad.

mod can also be done on the tl..

this mod still uses the standered ram tube set up,but for the next inductuion mod,you will need a set of full lenght ram tubes,mentalslider do a set of the yoshey kit ram tubes that go in to the air box(i think they do you will have to ask daz),thses go through the frame and into the air box,no rubber needed,as in the factory set up.

once all this done the bike will be a difrent bike,and the air box does growel.

Thanks for this fella,only had my srad track bike for about 4 weeks and was wondering what could be done to it to liven it up."Dremmel ahoy"

[lorenzo]

ringdingtim, if you do this mod, could you take photos and post them up here, so I don't fuck it up completely when I do mine!

[krazyk]

ringdingtim, if you do this mod, could you take photos and post them up here, so I don't fuck it up completely when I do mine!

Lawrence is yours carb or Fi

if FI I can do some of mine

[MarkB]

Lawrence is yours carb or Fi

if FI I can do some of mine

Krazyk - mines FI so any pics would be good

cheers

[V6Jon]

And mine is carb if anyone can supply piccies.

Ta

[lorenzo]

Lawrence is yours carb or Fi

if FI I can do some of mine

Mine's on carbs, it's a pretty early one.

[southwestbiker]

Would like to see some pics of the carb one as well please.

[ringdingtim]

Lawrence is yours carb or Fi

if FI I can do some of mine

I would be gratefull of some pics aswell,cheers.

[krazyk]

Sorry for the delay Guys I was going to just take foto´s of the finished one,

but decided to mod the new one, remember this one is a fool inj box, according to Haynes the Fi can be used on the carb box but not vise-versa

so here we go: differences the Fi has an IAT and IAP sensor and the IAC valve.

the carb box just has a vent hose between the inlets.

the IAC valve has to be removed on the FI airbox..... marked with washers ( for clarity ) three rings

mentioned earlier in the thread DON`T go any further back than these rings

IAC valve actuator , dont throw away you need this to reseal the box.

IAC valve... remove

seal needs replacing ( use draft excluder) its app. 10mm thick.

view of cleaned inlet.

valve retainers.

cut out to rough line with pad saw or Dremel saw

[krazyk]

rough shaping done with this

remove pins from IAC retainer

so then all that needs doing is to smooth the sides and front to the filter retainer and rear to the underside

of the inlet.

HTH KK

[krazyk]

so last pics from me on this.

The IAC actuator gets replaced to seal up the base, make new seals for frame joint and fit.

The Yoshi programmed ECU takes care of the fuelling.

HTH KK

[lorenzo]

If I was to do this on a carb'd bike, is there much in the way of fuelling changes that couldn't be sorted out via a trip to the dyno? That is, is it simply a case of bigger mains etc, as opposed to any serious modding of the carbs, and is it all reversable if need be?

[krazyk]

If I was to do this on a carb'd bike, is there much in the way of fuelling changes that couldn't be sorted out via a trip to the dyno? That is, is it simply a case of bigger mains etc, as opposed to any serious modding of the carbs, and is it all reversable if need be?

should go on just jets and needles, still need a Dyno run though

[krazyk]

Is anyone interested in this one FI will sell after Ive tested it.

KK

[lorenzo]

should go on just jets and needles, still need a Dyno run though

Coolio, I'll do it when I fit my exhaust and the carbon tubes, get it all done at once. Thanks very much too, the photos make it much more clear.

[pullingmyplonker]

if you do this mod to the carb 750 model srads you have to block the main air jet and maybe change the main jet, i done this with a akropovic full system and ran cyl 1/4 127.5 cyl 2/3 130 main jet otherwise you have to run 170+ main jets and standard they run 1/4 - 125 2/3 - 127.5

there are pics of where the main air jet is on www.factorypro.com under gsxr 750 96-97 section

[lorenzo]

Thanks for the link, but I think you've just foud the candidate for the most impossible to read website ever. I'll have a word with my Dyno guy on tuesday, see what he's saying.