porter_jamie Posted July 25, 2010 Report Share Posted July 25, 2010 dropped it off friday night, so he can have a look at the the needles. motor is bog stock apart from lowered gearing, and a coil spring clutch (which won't make a difference) and a can off a 99/2000 model. what do you reckon it will pull? 120odd? if i'm lucky? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TKDMitch Posted July 25, 2010 Report Share Posted July 25, 2010 So much depends on dyno/conditions of course, but mine put out 127 at about 20,000 miles and it was a bog stock 2/3 year old at that point. They reckoned that was a good 'un. I bet 120. Mitch Edit to add, it was 137 actually, not 127. It had done a few track days to loosen it up. So I reckon yours will be nearer 130 than 120. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zx6rrob Posted July 25, 2010 Report Share Posted July 25, 2010 Hopefully popping mine down next weekend for a power run to check if its still fit. What do we reckon? 45t sprocket, dyno jet, K&N, end can, 9k miles? Hope it doesn`t shit itself.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted July 26, 2010 Report Share Posted July 26, 2010 Not sure what relevance the gearing has to the dyno figures - Shirley it will make the same bhp/torque regardless of the gearing? my 4xv made 131bhp at Gibson's dyno recently - that's with a full akra system, re-jet and a K&N, it had about 35,000 on the clock at the time. Haven't tested the new engine yet though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fran9r Posted July 26, 2010 Report Share Posted July 26, 2010 If it's had oil changes, 40K won't make a difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Demons08 Posted July 26, 2010 Report Share Posted July 26, 2010 Also got a 98 R1 (completely stock) with 59,000 kms on the clock, so pretty interested to see what your dyno results are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porter_jamie Posted July 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2010 Not sure what relevance the gearing has to the dyno figures - Shirley it will make the same bhp/torque regardless of the gearing? my 4xv made 131bhp at Gibson's dyno recently - that's with a full akra system, re-jet and a K&N, it had about 35,000 on the clock at the time. Haven't tested the new engine yet though it shouldnt make any difference, unless it can tell the difference between a steel rear sprocket and an ally one! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porter_jamie Posted July 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2010 er, inertia dynos dont measure torque. well ok, the 250i ones do, but you know what mean. they measure rate of change of rpm a known mass, and infer the torque from there. it knows the engine rpm, the drum rpm and works it all out from there. i think. so if you use a carbon rear wheel you should get more power than a mag one, because the mass you are accelerating is less Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter30 Posted July 26, 2010 Report Share Posted July 26, 2010 For what it is worth: Standard 99 R1 20k miles West London Suzuki dyno day 133 ish lightly modded(ivan's needles, 120 mains, full akra, piperx filter) 99 R1 13k miles Steve Jordan Suzuki 138 bhp last time up So depending on the dyno and prevailing winds 125-135 bhp for your one! Unless you use the same dyno for before and after mods comparison, it can be pretty meaningless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronenige Posted July 26, 2010 Report Share Posted July 26, 2010 . Nope, the power increase is due to the dry clutch not churning through engine oil.... is it referred to as " windage "? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fran9r Posted July 26, 2010 Report Share Posted July 26, 2010 The measured/calculated power has increased (although i seriously doubt you'd ever be able to measure the "power" increase going from a mag to carbon wheel) and in reality the power hasn't increased one bit.......hold the rpm at a steady state and apply the drum brake and the actual power produced by the engine will be the same whether you are using lead or helium wheels. Had exactly the same argument with some one in BSB when they fitted a dry clutch conversion and got about a 4bhp measured power increase..they claimed this was due to the dry clutch being lighter. Nope, the power increase is due to the dry clutch not churning through engine oil.... Wow. Didn't think the dry clutch gain would be that much. Where did I put my credit card? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porter_jamie Posted July 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2010 131bhp! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted July 30, 2010 Report Share Posted July 30, 2010 Thems big numbers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porter_jamie Posted July 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2010 he says it's about 13.7/8 topend and about 13.5 in the middle, so could stand a bigger main jet. not bad for a 40k motor i reckon. dont think the needles are worn, so going to leave the stock ones in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porter_jamie Posted July 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2010 afr ratio, or the mixture strength. 13.5/1, or 13.9/1 parts air to fuel in weight. anything above 13.5 i would consider a bit lean, especially for racing, and into the 14/1 makes me really nervous. in my experience (limited, i've only really done supermono tuning, but probably done 40 hours on a dyno) 12.5 ish normally gives the best hp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porter_jamie Posted July 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2010 btw, the dyno operator has a sniffer which he shoves up the exhaust which sucks some fumes into a box with a wideband lambda sensor in it. This sensor is like the one in your car, but has a greater degree of accuracy. I'm no expert, but essentially i think a narrow band just says rich, or lean, whereas the wideband says how rich or lean. Very valuable tool indeed. In fact i don't really know how you would set a bike up without one. I havnt the skill to manage without. Old school method was a CO meter, and before that they were into plug chops. The wideband gives you a more or less instant reading. We run a dynojet wideband commander on the mono, so the bro can see what the mixture is doing at any time, assuming he isnt too busy to look! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svingel Posted July 31, 2010 Report Share Posted July 31, 2010 afr ratio, or the mixture strength. 13.5/1, or 13.9/1 parts air to fuel in weight. anything above 13.5 i would consider a bit lean, especially for racing, and into the 14/1 makes me really nervous. in my experience (limited, i've only really done supermono tuning, but probably done 40 hours on a dyno) 12.5 ish normally gives the best hp. So would they be ballpark figures for having switchable two maps (PC V), one for max power and one for max range? Tim Thompson had two maps on his Kwak in PB a while ago, he claimed something like 30% better mpg for the lean mapping, as far as I remember. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porter_jamie Posted August 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2010 just got it back - he went bigger on the mains and put in a K+N. 134.4bhp sounds like a lot to me on standard pipes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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