bjohnson Posted June 10, 2010 Report Share Posted June 10, 2010 Hi all, need some advice on setup for my K5 GSXR thou. Have had the bike for some time now (in fact since new) and never really needed to change any suspension settings. But recently rode a friends ZX6R and realised that the turn in isnt quick enough for me. On my previous bike (Honda SP1) I dropped the forks through the yolks by a couple of rings and this got the handling spot on for me (it had stock suspension). So I recently fitted an Ohlins rear shock to the Gixxer and with the new Ohlins I have been able to increase ride height, but I wonder if a combination of slight ride height increase plus lowerered forks will give me the desired result. Before I attempt to raise the forks, just wanted to see if anyone else has done this. Also, are the fork tops marked with rings so you can easily measure the amount of adjustment when raising them through the yolks?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedy sie Posted June 10, 2010 Report Share Posted June 10, 2010 when i had my k3 1000,i droped the front down 3mm extra and jacked the back up 5mm,tipped in better for me,but you will have to have a play around for your ridding style. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
originalracingsnake Posted June 10, 2010 Report Share Posted June 10, 2010 Before I attempt to raise the forks, just wanted to see if anyone else has done this. Also, are the fork tops marked with rings so you can easily measure the amount of adjustment when raising them through the yolks?? Yep, yokes down the forks by 3mm, and no, the forks are not marked with rings. I used the end of an engineers rule to do it and measure from the deck of the fork top, to the deck of the yoke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DocJohn Posted June 10, 2010 Report Share Posted June 10, 2010 Before I attempt to raise the forks, just wanted to see if anyone else has done this. Also, are the fork tops marked with rings so you can easily measure the amount of adjustment when raising them through the yolks?? Top tip: -Slacken off the clipons, -Insert appropriate sized allen key between clip-on and top yoke (eg. 3mm allen key for a 3mm drop) -Tighten up clipons again -Slack off top and bottom yoke to allow forks to slide through to rest on clipons again -Tighten top and bottom yoke Quick, easy and reliable method in the paddock without having to piss about with verniers etc. if the forks aren't ringed -John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarrybends Posted June 10, 2010 Report Share Posted June 10, 2010 Top tip: -Slacken off the clipons, -Insert appropriate sized allen key between clip-on and top yoke (eg. 3mm allen key for a 3mm drop) -Tighten up clipons again -Slack off top and bottom yoke to allow forks to slide through to rest on clipons again -Tighten top and bottom yoke Quick, easy and reliable method in the paddock without having to piss about with verniers etc. if the forks aren't ringed -John Ooh I like that. Q Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarrybends Posted June 10, 2010 Report Share Posted June 10, 2010 Yep, yokes down the forks by 3mm, and no, the forks are not marked with rings. I used the end of an engineers rule to do it and measure from the deck of the fork top, to the deck of the yoke. Just out of interest, Did you raise the back?? I also wonder how you came to the conclusion that the front wanted lowering 3mm..?? And last but not least Are you using this on the roads, track or both... Apologies if I come across a bit like a twat (as i am one) Q Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjohnson Posted June 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2010 Thanks for all the replies guys, especially the trick with the allen key and clip ons, I'll definitely be applying that trick I've just made a small adjustment to the rear ride height on the shock but not had a chance to check it yet. I only gave two turns to the adjusting nut so this probably only equates to about 1.5mm! I will try this first and then move to drop the forks by a couple of mm and test again as I dont want to have the back jacked right up! Obviously I've got a bit of trial and error to get to something that suits me. Plus I've got a track day at Amglesey in July and want to get sorted before then. I personally use the bike for road and occassional track days and since I've had the bike have been very happy with the handling, although it has always felt a little slow to turn in for my riding style. Having tried my mates ZX6R (which is obviously a very different bike) made me realise I've probably got used to riding the Gixxer as it is, but that some fine tuning is most definitely required! Will keep you posted of progress if anyone is interested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
originalracingsnake Posted June 11, 2010 Report Share Posted June 11, 2010 Just out of interest, Did you raise the back?? No, I'm not sure you can on a std shock on a K5, can you? I also wonder how you came to the conclusion that the front wanted lowering 3mm..?? I replaced the head races and had the forks rebuilt, and whilst it was apart decided that I'd try to make the bike tip in faster. It worked for my TLS, my GSX-R11L and I thought it should work on the K5. And last but not least Are you using this on the roads, track or both... Road bike only, 300 miles a week all weathers. Apologies if I come across a bit like a twat (as i am one) Q Not at all, information exchange is the whole point of a forum like this. Oh, and taking the piss. Damn you Joihn for making me realise what a hard job of it I made. Damn you to......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjohnson Posted June 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2010 Just to let you know I finally got round to dropping the forks on the K5 - I applied the track day method advised here which worked a treat and was very simple. I've applied a 2.5mm adjustment for now (an appropriate sized allen key) so as not to have too much of a change in the first instance. After a good blast yesterday the handling is now much better and on the way to where I want to be. I think a further adjustment of maybe 2mm more is required to see if it improves further or ruins the handling. I can also report that this initial adjustment had no adverse effect on the high speed stability Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark/Foggy Posted June 21, 2010 Report Share Posted June 21, 2010 If you get a big 16mm / 20mm (can't remember size)or so flat washer or 2 and cut a slot out you can use them a quick shims on Gixers. Stick the bike on axle stands and undo the top shock mount nut so that the shock drops away from the frame. Pop the shim in with a telescopic magnet and nip up the nut again. Quick simple and much easier than having the shock out to change it's length if you've got an after-market one with a lower length adjuster. If you have got a trick shock, you probably can't get a pair of 24mm spanners in there, on an R1 you can and when you've slacked the lock nut off off you can turn the bottom spring cup with a spanner, altering the length of the shock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjohnson Posted June 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2010 I've got an Ohlins rear shock with ride height adjustment at the bottom. The access isnt easy though, but for now my preferred method is to remove the rear wheel to easily access the adjustment and lock nuts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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