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Oil checking


madmike

oil checking  

16 members have voted

  1. 1. how do you check yours?

    • Warm engine up then let the oil settle for 15-20mins
      7
    • stone cold, first thing before the engine has ran in a day or so
      7
    • Another way.. explain in a reply...
      2


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Depends on the bike , if in doubt RTFM , hth

This, pretty much.

The TRX has a dry sump and checking the level involves a full moon, some silver and a few black chickens. The FZR I just have a vague look through the sight glass then wheel it out and ride it.

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The TRX has a dry sump and checking the level involves a full moon, some silver and a few black chickens. The FZR I just have a vague look through the sight glass then wheel it out and ride it.

I thought you had to wait for the correct planetary alignment on them to ensure a correct reading ?

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I thought you had to wait for the correct planetary alignment on them to ensure a correct reading ?

No, that's the TDM.

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The GS has some odd method of leaving it on the sidestand after a run for 20 minutes then putting in on the centrestand. I think. Something like that.

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Depends on the bike, the ZXR and GPZ have sightglasses, so just check before firing up, the CG125 has a dipstick, and IIRC you're supposed to run it for a few seconds then leave it for a few minutes before checking, and the Tenere and the DR-Z both require sacrificing chickens, correct alignment of planets and so on as detailed by Kayla.

The Tenere then requires taking half the front end off (or a very long thin funnel) should you need to actually top the oil up. Fortunately being fairly new it doesn't really use much.

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Tenere as Dave says, is a little arcane, but whilst the manual says to run the engine for 10-15minutes and then check the oil level on the dipstick (OIF), I prefere to put those 10-15min to use by riding somewhere. So I check it after I've got home from a ride.

Filling it up does indeed involve a long thin funnel, or a funnel that's almost right and some kitchen towel. I've just found the top from a spare scottoiler bottle though, so that'll be used now.

Triumph I check when cold, and every time forget if the dipstick has to be screwed in or not.

Bandit was always checked through the sight glass with the bike on the centre stand. Nice and easy. DR and GPZ the same.

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...but whilst the manual says to run the engine for 10-15minutes and then check the oil level on the dipstick (OIF), I prefere to put those 10-15min to use by riding somewhere...

LOL, and likewise. The suggestion in the manual that you should perform this arcane procedure before every ride is a bit optimistic to say the least.

It does seem to drain back into the sump quite quickly when you turn the engine off though so by the time I've taken my lid and gloves off and find something to (ahem) wipe my dipstick on I tend to fire it up again for a few seconds before checking it.

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With the TRX, I tend to check the level at the end of every ride. I know it's back to front, but it seems to be the best way to do it. That way, I know the (hot) oil level is right for the next time I take it out. Which has been ages as it's still in bits :lol:

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I have a quick look at the sight glass when I remember, while trying not to drop the bike as I simultaneously attempt to hold it upright with one arm while I crouch next to it.

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I usually check the oil once a week before i wash my bike on a saturday morning. I just stick the bike on a paddock stand and by the time i've got the hose out and filled me bucket up with water, i just check the oil throught the sight glass and get on with the cleaning!

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I have a quick look at the sight glass when I remember, while trying not to drop the bike as I simultaneously attempt to hold it upright with one arm while I crouch next to it.

I can definitely recommend one of these http://www.bikegrab.com/

bike_grab.jpg

it holds the bike upright which means it takes up less space in the garage and is dead handy for checking the oli, washing, servicing etc

I check the oil on the R1 regularly, it burns a bit so needs to be kept topped up between oil changes.

Plus the oil level sensor is quite, err, sensitive and starts to flicker on & off once the level drops to half way between max & min.

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I got one of these small mirrors on an extending tube and have been using this to look at my bike's sightglass whilst sitting on the bike. Takes a bit of faffing to get the mirror in the right place where you can actually see the level though...

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If I wanted to be really pedantic, I'd check the level in the sightglass before a ride, then check it straight after I stop for the first time...

I always do it warm though for one reason or another...

My old MT-03 (Same engine as Dodgy Tom & Deviant's XT's) was a fucking NIGHTMARE trying to get a correct and consistent readig on the dipstick. The only way to get it right and know its right was to do an oil change... fuckin' thing...

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I have a quick look at the sight glass when I remember, while trying not to drop the bike as I simultaneously attempt to hold it upright with one arm while I crouch next to it.

Ever tried sticking a 1 inch piece of wood under the side stand to level it that bit!!

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Yeah i've always run the engine up to temp then left it for 5, checked then checked again in another 5... Just worried me I was doing it wrong :rolleyes:

On the subject of things... Oily things...

Am i ok to clean my new Gold X-Ring chain with WD40? Like spray it on, leave then wipe with a cloth and re-lube?

Don't want to damage it is all! :blush:

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Unless it's a dry sump engine then I always check the oil level with the engine stone cold and try to keep the oil level about half way between the min and max lines.

When cold the oil is at it's densest and least cavitated so the level will only rise as the engine temp increases over ambient. Overfilling with oil can be as bad for an engine as underfilling and will invariably result in excess oil blow by from the engine breathers into the air box which can gum filters, cause carbon build up on valves and lead to power loss as the charge becomes contaminated with hot oily air.

If you keep the oil level as low as possible without underfilling then you also keep windage losses to a minimum as the crank webs churn through the oil in the sump - unless you've got a deep sump and/or knife edged the webs.....

Fucking scared me when my car came back from a dealer service with too much oil in for this very reason...although I'm nervous of having the oil low.

I understand the reasoning though...I seem to recall any 'cheap' race class banning tuning suddenly becomes very expensive when competitors experiment with just how little oil they can get away with...

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With the TRX, I tend to check the level at the end of every ride. I know it's back to front, but it seems to be the best way to do it. That way, I know the (hot) oil level is right for the next time I take it out. Which has been ages as it's still in bits :huh:

This is probably the best way of doing it with any dry sump motor , well done

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But its not dangerous/stupid to use WD40? :icon_salut:

WD40 acts as a degreaser does it not? so if you just clean your chain with it then ride, i personally think it'd be a fuck-up.

However, If you use WD40 to clean the chain, let it dry and dissolve, and then lube it up properly, ensuring you get all the links/pins then i cannae imagine there being a problem.

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I check it when it's cold, that's when oil the oil is in the bottom of the engine.

A trick to holding your bike level....

Kneel on your left knee, with your right foot on the gound, and your right knee up.

Grab the handlebar with your right hand, pull the bike to upright and rest the engine case against your right knee.

Look across the end of the tail to find level.

With the bar in your hand, your right knee against the case, and your left knee and toe on the ground, everything is stable.

Now you can look at the oil sight glass. :eusa_whistle:

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