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Storing a bike again


stuntmonkee

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Need some advice on properly storing a couple of bikes.

Not using at least 2 of my bikes this season and want to protectect them as much as possible. Body work is already off and wrapped up safely, batteries are removed an will be kept topped up.

I've drained the tanks and carbs but should I do anything else, like line the tank with WD40/oil etc?

Exhaust has a sandwich bag elastic banded over it, is this right?

Their in a brick shed thing which isn't too damp but should I do anything other than cover them? liberal application of WD40/ACF50?

Tyres are on carpet offcuts but should I go further? Are paddock stands better or should I take the wheels, forks and shocks out completely and store them seperatly so their not under load?

Anything else I've missed?

Cheers :wacko:

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Need some advice on properly storing a couple of bikes.

Not using at least 2 of my bikes this season and want to protectect them as much as possible. Body work is already off and wrapped up safely, batteries are removed an will be kept topped up.

I've drained the tanks and carbs but should I do anything else, like line the tank with WD40/oil etc?

Removing the tank (or keeping it filled to the brim to reduce condensation/moisture) is a good idea. You can get fuel 'winteriser', that's really just a 'stabliser' as well.

Draining the carbs completely is the best move...

Either drain the tank completely dry (and dry store it) or keep it topped. Don't go adding liquids into it unless you absolutely have to (imho).

Personally, I've put a teaspoonful of oil down each bore on the biek as well, to try and stop the piston rings sticking, while stored (even though I'll turn the crank around by hand, while in storage anyways...)

Exhaust has a sandwich bag elastic banded over it, is this right?

Couple of quid for a motorcross-style exhaust bung (and a lil' squit of WD40 on the joints).

Their in a brick shed thing which isn't too damp but should I do anything other than cover them? liberal application of WD40/ACF50?

ACF-50 on the critical stuff and Scotoil F365 on the large surfaces (it's cheap and it works)

Tyres are on carpet offcuts but should I go further? Are paddock stands better or should I take the wheels, forks and shocks out completely and store them seperatly so their not under load?

An ABBA stand is about the cheapest and most effective way of getting the bike lifted up and taking the load of the suspension and tyres.

I've got a 'headstock' front paddock stand that get the front completely clear of the floor (and unloads the suspension). Lifting the rear is trickier though, as you need something that lifts from the pivot point (unlike most paddock stands).

Don't just let the bike sit though. Always worth taking a bit of time to work the suspension a lil' now and again, just so that the seals are worked and not shrinking...

G

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An ABBA stand is about the cheapest and most effective way of getting the bike lifted up and taking the load of the suspension and tyres.

I've got a 'headstock' front paddock stand that get the front completely clear of the floor (and unloads the suspension). Lifting the rear is trickier though, as you need something that lifts from the pivot point (unlike most paddock stands).

Don't just let the bike sit though. Always worth taking a bit of time to work the suspension a lil' now and again, just so that the seals are worked and not shrinking...

G

This was why I asked about removing the wheels, forks and shock, I could then leave it with the sump or similar on a wooden stand/box like you'd see an MX bike. Can't really afford stands etc x 2

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Diesel down the bores works better and highly recomended from an R1 owner who had to purchase a new lump after only wd40'ing his after nipping down the gulf for 6 months and thinking he had properly stored his bike......

There pics on her, or maybe the old site of the damage done to the head pistons and Bore which is nicosil which is really hard to damage.....

Make sure the area is really dry mine was wrapped up and i think condensation was the killer how and why i dont know.

Good luck though. Cant someone start it up for you now and then in a garage? that would be your best answer.

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<snip>

Cant someone start it up for you now and then in a garage? that would be your best answer.

I always thought this was a bad idea, unless you were actually taking it for a ride, as it encourages the build up of condensation? Or have i made that up?

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when I store the R1 over winter I do the following:

Give it a good wash and dry thoroughly

change the oil for some fresh stuff - I do the filter as well but I am a sad bastard - and check the coolant level too

turn off the fuel supply whilst engine is running, leave it to run the carbs dry. Fill the tank to the brim.

once engine is stone cold [pref. overnight] I bung the exhaust and the airbox intakes

get the bike up on an Abba stand & a Harris front headstock stand so both wheels are off the ground & suspension at both ends unloaded

take the battery out and take home, charge on optimate then store safely. Cover the bike with a dust cover.

Then once every month or so I start her up to make sure she's ok. I always give a good few turns on the starter without choke to get some oil up top, before firing her up.

BTW a few years ago when I went travelling I did the same process to my Fazer600 - it sat for 8 months completely untouched. I put the battery back in & some fresh petrol and 30 seconds later she was running like I'd used her the day before. Modern Japanese motorcycles..... marvellous!

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If you suspect the shed to be damp, get a big bag of cheap rice and some paper plates.

Pour the rice onto the plates and leave in the shed. This will help attract and trap the moisture away from your bike.

Extra points if you cook the rice up and eat it next year :icon_salut:

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won't this also attract mice?

Keeps the little bastards out of your airbox :thumbsup: Plus you can have lots of fun chasing them around the shed with a sledgehammer. Try to squidge them nice and flat, then the kids can use them as frisbees

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