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Snapped exhaust stud- what to do?


Kayla

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My boyfriend's Buell has a snapped exhaust stud on the front pipe, and there's enough room to get a drill in to drill it out. There's no thread showing outside the head so he can't get anything to grip on it, and we're kind of at a loss as to how it happened really. has anyone used a bolt extractor to remove a snapped stud before without it snapping in the head? What about a left-hand drill bit?

Thanks :angry:

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Gonna have to drill it out.

Have a go with an easy-out, but be prepared for the nightmare that is a snapped easy-out, so if it feels like the easy-out is going to snap, give up with that and just drill the studd fully out and fit a heli-coil or tim-sert.

Take your time, and don't force anything or this could prove to be a nightmare. If you're careful it's all pretty straightforward.

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it's a shit job cos the stud is harder than the ally, and ideally you need to get the snapped bit of the stud flat, centre dot it and drill it out so you dont have the drill wandering off and mullering the head. good luck

if you are totally in the shit, my old man has a spark eroder that is ideal for removing snapped eaziouts etc

you can get left handed colbalt or carbide drills, try cromwell or j an l

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Axminst...-Set-462398.htm

axminster do a colbalt/ezeout kit for 8 quid, worth a punt

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We got some extractors today but to be honest, I'm not hopeful. It's my bf's bike and I'm not going anywhere near it unless he specifically asks me to do something. It's an imperial thread too :lol: On the bright side, the other stud came out ok so he can still get the header clamped up alright, and the headers are held in place by each other so they're not going anywhere. I dunno. At least with Japanese bikes you know the bolts and nuts are cheese, but at least they're metric cheese.

Thanks for your replies, I'll pass it on. You don't have a large bag of patience to spare, do you?

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I've taken out quite a few snapped studs and bolts by welding a nut onto what's left of it. It works great. Even if it's snapped off flush.

We got some extractors today but to be honest, I'm not hopeful. It's my bf's bike and I'm not going anywhere near it unless he specifically asks me to do something. It's an imperial thread too :dribble: On the bright side, the other stud came out ok so he can still get the header clamped up alright, and the headers are held in place by each other so they're not going anywhere. I dunno. At least with Japanese bikes you know the bolts and nuts are cheese, but at least they're metric cheese.

Thanks for your replies, I'll pass it on. You don't have a large bag of patience to spare, do you?

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This link below (might have to cut and paste to browser) provides some step by step instruction.

http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/may2003/techtotech.htm

Whilst these sort of instructions can be patronising, it can be a good way of working through the task in an ordered fashion with useful hints along the way.

Although it always ends with me reaching for my biggest hammer.

good luck.

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Have a go with an easy-out, but be prepared for the nightmare that is a snapped easy-out, so if it feels like the easy-out is going to snap, give up with that and just drill the studd fully out and fit a heli-coil or tim-sert.

DON'T USE AN EASYOUT!!!

Fuggin things are made from glass not metal, fuggin useless things... *grumble, grumble* don't ask me how I know :P

In hindsight I'd have used carbide drillbits, centred properly and work your way up from small to correct size, drilling slowly and using cutting fluid.

Good luck, you'll need it :lol:

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If you can ride the bike then I'd take it somewhere where they could weld a thingy or a whatsisname on it. Not only will that give you something to undo, but critically, you'll only be fucking about with the stud and not the head, plus the heat of the welding will most likely shock the stud free anyway.

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Weeeellll... He finally thought it through and just put the collar back on with a washer under the nut on the (good) stud to hold it down tight enough to get it to an engineers' to get it removed with someone else's expertise. It's probably going to Armstrong's in Newcastle.

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