paul8899 Posted April 5, 2010 Report Share Posted April 5, 2010 hello, whats the difference between the evolution range and the other full systems akra make (apart from being made from titanium) ? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark/Foggy Posted April 5, 2010 Report Share Posted April 5, 2010 Evo's may require other odd's & sod's adding/removing so that they fit right, the routing and tapers sometimes don't suit road bikes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted April 6, 2010 Report Share Posted April 6, 2010 There are some particular differences, depending on the model. For instance: I bought a full akra system off ebay for the R1, all well and good, except the titanium link pipe had a dent - it appeared the bike it had been fitted to had crashed and the link pipe had hit the swingarm and creased. I went to order a new link pipe only to discover the titanium link pipe [evo version] was about £200 [!!] wheras the stainless pipe [racing line version] was about £50 I went for the stainless link pipe but when it arrived it wouldn't fit. It would fit the pipework at the engine end, where it connects to the 4-1 collector, but the outlet diameter was smaller than the can. ie. the evo system titanium link pipe flares outwards, from c.50mm entry to c.60mm exit. Whereas the stainless racing-line link pipe is a straight 50mm to 50mm. Akrapovic cans all look the same but often the inlet diameter varies, as does the outlet diameter too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul8899 Posted April 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2010 cheers, got one off ebay which is supposed to be an evolution coming this week and wondered what the differences were, Ive got a sneaky suspicion that its a racing line one though. Is it just the evo systems that are full titanium ? Time will tell ....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter30 Posted April 6, 2010 Report Share Posted April 6, 2010 There are some particular differences, depending on the model. For instance: I bought a full akra system off ebay for the R1, all well and good, except the titanium link pipe had a dent - it appeared the bike it had been fitted to had crashed and the link pipe had hit the swingarm and creased. Pesky crease costing me at least 2 bhp! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul8899 Posted April 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2010 its for a 5jj R1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted April 7, 2010 Report Share Posted April 7, 2010 cheers, got one off ebay which is supposed to be an evolution coming this week and wondered what the differences were, Ive got a sneaky suspicion that its a racing line one though. Is it just the evo systems that are full titanium ? Time will tell ....... basically yes, as I understand it. The 'evo' systems are full titanium - headers, collector & link pipe. The 'racing line' version has stainless headers & collector [4-1 for the 4xv/5jj models, or 4-2-1 for later] with an option for a stainless or titanium link pipe. The titanium link pipe is exactly the same as used in the evo system. But as I discovered, the stainless and titanium link pipes are different diameter where they meet the can. post some pics up once you get it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David W Posted April 7, 2010 Report Share Posted April 7, 2010 I also think the Evo sytems have tapered headers whereas I'm not sure the Stainless versions do? As far as I know the 'Racing Line' refers to the silencers rather than the downpipes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted April 7, 2010 Report Share Posted April 7, 2010 I also think the Evo sytems have tapered headers whereas I'm not sure the Stainless versions do? As far as I know the 'Racing Line' refers to the silencers rather than the downpipes? Can't comment on other makes and models, but I do know for certain that the stainless headers on the R1 are tapered, ie conical IIRC they used to refer to the stainless full systems as 'Race Conical' but that now appears to be 'Racing Line' official blurb http://www.akrapovic.com/motorcycle-exhaus...am/racing-line/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David W Posted April 7, 2010 Report Share Posted April 7, 2010 I'm probably confusing one with the other to be honest. They did do three ranges; Sport Production, Race Conical and Evo. I think the SP headers were straight, and the other two were conical? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted April 7, 2010 Report Share Posted April 7, 2010 I'm probably confusing one with the other to be honest. They did do three ranges; Sport Production, Race Conical and Evo. I think the SP headers were straight, and the other two were conical? Yes I think you are right David. The 'Sport Production' line was the budget full system option - it was all stainless but with straight [non-conical] headers, and typically lacked the cross-over tubes between the downpipes - presumably both of these kept the cost down. IIRC they were meant as direct replacement for OE systems, rather than an aftermarket performance gain. Maybe they aren't doing the Sport production range anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul8899 Posted April 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2010 well , got an email from the seller today , surprise surprise its the stainless pipework , I thought it looked a bit stainlessy in the ebay pics ! can't complain really cos I got it reasonably cheap, should be getting it friday , so I've got a busy weekend coming Ill put some pics up when it turns up, have you got a pic of your one so I compare pics ? According to the picture, its got the tapered headers ( the downpipes are in 3 sections ) and the crossover tubes , they look the same as monkeys ones he posted a while ago. I think it might be an old system becuase the silencer has a flat front on it rather than a posh tapered one Got another question, do the collets come out of the exhaust , ie : stay in the engine , then the downpipes are held on with the springs ? I don't suppose anyones got a damaged evo link pipe they want to sell ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted April 8, 2010 Report Share Posted April 8, 2010 well , got an email from the seller today , surprise surprise its the stainless pipework , I thought it looked a bit stainlessy in the ebay pics ! can't complain really cos I got it reasonably cheap, should be getting it friday , so I've got a busy weekend coming Ill put some pics up when it turns up, have you got a pic of your one so I compare pics ? According to the picture, its got the tapered headers ( the downpipes are in 3 sections ) and the crossover tubes , they look the same as monkeys ones he posted a while ago. I think it might be an old system becuase the silencer has a flat front on it rather than a posh tapered one Got another question, do the collets come out of the exhaust , ie : stay in the engine , then the downpipes are held on with the springs ? I don't suppose anyones got a damaged evo link pipe they want to sell ? Nice. Even in stainless, you won't believe how light it is compared to the oe system. This is what the 'race conical' system comprises: Yes, correct - the collets mount to the exhaust ports, and then the downpipes fit into those and the exhaust is just held on by four springs. Get yourself 4 new exhaust gaskets, they#re only a quid or two each from a Yam dealers. The whole system is held together with springs - you won't use the middle mounting point by the RHS footpeg at all. You'll need to drain and remove the radiator to access the header bolts - if you've not done this before, don't worry, it's a piece of piss. One other thing to remember, when you remove the oe exhaust you'll have to disconnect the exup servo cables. You'll need to remove them at the servo motor end too, but leave the servo in place and plugged in to the loom - otherwise you'll get the 'tacho tango' error code. I went the whole shebang and got an Ivan's servo eliminator so I could then also remove the servo motor - ooooh that saved at least 400g I reckon! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul8899 Posted April 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2010 thanks for the pics, the pipework looks the same as I am supposed to be getting , should be getting it tomorrow Ive already got my scotchbrite and spring puller in anticipation ! I think ill leave the servo in place , sod the 400g How much was the servo eliminator ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul8899 Posted April 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2010 did you ever get that stand made ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted April 9, 2010 Report Share Posted April 9, 2010 thanks for the pics, the pipework looks the same as I am supposed to be getting , should be getting it tomorrow Ive already got my scotchbrite and spring puller in anticipation ! I think ill leave the servo in place , sod the 400g How much was the servo eliminator ? No problem. A spring puller will be your friend IIRC the servo eliminator was about £50. It says 'for race use only' [for some reason?] so that was worth the cost alone, for me anyway it's the red/blue component that's cable tied to the fuel filter. did you ever get that stand made ? No, I didn't. The fabrication guys at the Studio are snowed under working on a couple of big productions, so it's gone on hold for now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul8899 Posted April 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2010 Well it turned up today, took a while to get it fitted to my bike. You were right about the standard pipes weighing a ton ! Heres a pic with it fitted and it all seems to line up ok as well , which is a bonus Unfortuantly the seller was a bit generous when he said about a couple of flats on the downpipes though so it looks like its a trip to the sheet metal peeps at work tomorrow and hopefully they will be able to get them back to round I also think that whoever had this before has the mechanical aptitude of a chimp cos all the ally clamps have been overtightened so badly that the exhaust collets won't fit, so Im going to try and flatten them out so it fits together properly ,if they don't I'll make some new ones up (anyone want any spares ?) On the link pipe I have got this boss with a bolt in on it , any ideas as to what this is ? On a plus note , they are the conical downpipes , which is nice Im off now to get busy with the scotchbrite Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will#224 Posted April 9, 2010 Report Share Posted April 9, 2010 Looks like someone has ground out the belly pan. Ex tt system? That threaded boss is for a lambda sensor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul8899 Posted April 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2010 Looks like I've got a 5pw link pipe then , the system fits ok on my 5jj though, I had a try with the bodywork on and its all clear The collector sits a bit low, about 3/4 inch out the bottom of bellypan, is this normal ? Apart from that it seems to be ok, cans at right angle to bike , swingarm clearance etc , just needs a clean re rounding of pipework Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul8899 Posted April 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2010 had the pipes re rounded at work today , all scotchbrited up , almost as good as new took a while to get it fitted , those springs are a right sod to fit on the downpipes ! got there in the end though All the panels are clear as well , I reckon that the downpipes stick out the bottom of bellypan by about 3/4 inch , so god knows how they were worn like that ! I took it for a test ride and WOW ! what a difference , this is what I thought I would be getting when I bought my R1 , it feels a bit flat below 7000 ( not jetted yet ) after that it just goes mental Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted April 12, 2010 Report Share Posted April 12, 2010 Nice! That is definitely not the right link pipe - with the threaded boss - but it looks like it fits ok from the pic above. Yeah the bottom of the akra downpipes / collector sit a wee bit lower than the standard pipes, I had to cut a hole in the trackday bellypan to allow them to poke through. The trick with getting the springs on the downpipes is to fit one end of the spring to the collet, before you bolt them up to the head. Sorry.... I should have told you this beforehand. Now that it's all fitted, you'll love the springs, trust me. If you remove the bolt holding the bottom of the rad onto the stay, you can push the rad forward by an inch or so, and you can just unhook the springs from the downpipes. Et voila - the whole system comes off in, in under 10 minutes. It's soooo much easier changing the oil/filter/coolant without the exhaust in the way. Get it re-jetted and a decent race air filter and enjoy!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul8899 Posted April 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2010 the link pipe is a bit strange with that boss on. I thought that the difference with the 5pw link pipes were that they have different angles so the can shouldn't fit properly, strange..... Wonder if/why someone would fit one on to a 5jj pipe ? Seems to fit ok though The person I bought it off is selling a load of supposedly ex TT bits so I wonder if thats where this came from I worked out the putting the springs on the collar trick after messing about / swearing for 30 mins got a dynojet kit waiting to go in so hopefully that will smooth the power out a bit , its running a bit lean at the mo ( exhaust is grey at the tailpipe ) All I have to do is resist riding it before I fit the kit !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonkeyJim Posted April 13, 2010 Report Share Posted April 13, 2010 The person I bought it off is selling a load of supposedly ex TT bits so I wonder if thats where this came from I worked out the putting the springs on the collar trick after messing about / swearing for 30 mins I'd say looking at the flats on the pipes that ex-TT is a strong possibility! Now that the collars and header springs are on, that's the hard work done. Just make sure when you remove the exhaust you don't dislogde any of the springs and have to re-fit them.... like I did once Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark/Foggy Posted April 13, 2010 Report Share Posted April 13, 2010 Lockwire is your friend, just a thought. Other bits of advive would be to pull the studs and replace with bolts, even better if they're drilled for lock wire as you'll not loose any of them if you're working on the bike a lot. Also seriously well prepared bikes have short packers (tubes of steel or alloy) fitted between the bearing plate and the head. These stop the plates becoming distorted due to uneven tightening or in a crash where the load onto the can will dislodge the collets sometimes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul8899 Posted April 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2010 I think that when I make a spare set I'll make them so that the springs can go all the way through , then hopefully they won't come loose when I take the exhaust off. I thought about making the tubes on the collars for the same reasons, how much compression would be needed to seal the exhaust properly ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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