tanuki Posted February 17, 2010 Report Share Posted February 17, 2010 Hello The Gullarm on my NSR has a few scratches and a couple of scrapes and it really lets the rear of the bike down and I want to try and get it as close to standard looking as I can. Now I realise I will have to polish out these marks but what do I need to do after that to get it looking standard again. I assume I need to polish the whole thing and then use some sort of mildly abrasive pad to get the standard look back. any help thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will#224 Posted February 17, 2010 Report Share Posted February 17, 2010 Scotchbrite is the item your looking for http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_U...sives/Hand-Pad/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monty_zac Posted February 17, 2010 Report Share Posted February 17, 2010 would you have to lacquer them after? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will#224 Posted February 17, 2010 Report Share Posted February 17, 2010 Probably not. The anodising process only seals a few Microns worth of metal however i have in the past removed paint and used scotchbrite to scuff up a swingarm and it was fine. That was on a motorcross bike so it saw some crap thrown at it. I've just removed paint from a kwak frame and used scotchbrite to give the desired brushed effect and i'm currently doing a swingarm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Pigdog Posted February 17, 2010 Report Share Posted February 17, 2010 As he says--scotchbrite--they used to supply it with certain models of kwak new--i guess incase the silencer got scuffed in transit!!that was a while back though i have used it and it worked well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will#224 Posted February 17, 2010 Report Share Posted February 17, 2010 York abrasives do a comparable but cheaper alternative. The 3M stuff probably is the best though, it rips less. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanuki Posted February 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2010 dont suppose you remember which grade you used to do your swingarm do you? dont worry if you dont I'll just get a box of medium and fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will#224 Posted February 18, 2010 Report Share Posted February 18, 2010 medium, its usually the purple brown colour, the fine stuff takes forever Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Pigdog Posted February 18, 2010 Report Share Posted February 18, 2010 maroon--just go easy with it at first-it's surprisingly abrasive! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monty_zac Posted February 18, 2010 Report Share Posted February 18, 2010 I am doing the same with the NC fork legs so just was talking to a mate, he is currently testing a paint (he works in development for a huge paint company) that has the appearance of brushed alloy, I have stripped my forks today so they are going off to be painted by him. Will let you know the outcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drunkn munky Posted February 18, 2010 Report Share Posted February 18, 2010 Ive just done my NC frame with the medium scotchbright pads, it was highly polished which i didnt want so attacked it with the scotchbright soaked in ally cleaner and it leaves a nice brushed look. You gota keep the stokes all the same way or it looks shite. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanuki Posted February 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2010 is this the ones? http://www.cadetdirect.com/order1.php?pg=1234 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexp5 Posted February 22, 2010 Report Share Posted February 22, 2010 is this the ones? http://www.cadetdirect.com/order1.php?pg=1234 Yes. Do you want some? We use tons of the stuff at work for graining stainless steel. I may, err... have a few spare pads knocking about in my shed . Green scotchbrite is fine (the stuff on washing up pads), red= medium, black= coarse, good for de-rusting. PM me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harvey Mushman Posted February 22, 2010 Report Share Posted February 22, 2010 Ive just done my NC frame with the medium scotchbright pads, it was highly polished which i didnt want so attacked it with the scotchbright soaked in ally cleaner and it leaves a nice brushed look. You gota keep the stokes all the same way or it looks shite. Thanks for that! I too have an NC which one of the previous owner's thought it would be a good idea to polish the frame and swingarm. It looks gash, so I will give the scotchbrite a try when the weather improves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drunkn munky Posted February 22, 2010 Report Share Posted February 22, 2010 Thanks for that! I too have an NC which one of the previous owner's thought it would be a good idea to polish the frame and swingarm. It looks gash, so I will give the scotchbrite a try when the weather improves. Im not sure how it will stand up to the elements yet but its so easy to do its quicker than cleaning it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimjambandit Posted February 22, 2010 Report Share Posted February 22, 2010 Quick question. Would one of these work ok on a scratched satin finish silencer can? or too abrasive do we think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wesifume Posted February 22, 2010 Report Share Posted February 22, 2010 So if i were to attack the alloy rearsets and pillion pegs on the blade, would it be nice and smooth, or do these have acovering. Also, if i attacked my rs125 frame and swinger, would it be attacked by rust at all? Its got to go one way, polished, powdercoated or scotched. Woud it damage it or owt? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devon Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 So if i were to attack the alloy rearsets and pillion pegs on the blade, would it be nice and smooth, or do these have acovering. Also, if i attacked my rs125 frame and swinger, would it be attacked by rust at all? Its got to go one way, polished, powdercoated or scotched. Woud it damage it or owt? when you say rs125 i'm guessing you mean an aprilia. If it is the aprilia then I know a few people that have rubbed down the frame and have had no problems Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanuki Posted February 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 I think the main thing here is that you have top remove any laquer/anodising first to get and even finish.. So with regards to your pegs on the blade and RS you would need to polish them (to a degree) first. I shall be in the shed this weekend with a bucket of water, some wet and dry and a cold hand!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 Aren't RS125 frames polished in the first place anyway? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wesifume Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 Aren't RS125 frames polished in the first place anyway? Yup...but i think you're answering someone else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wesifume Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 I think the main thing here is that you have top remove any laquer/anodising first to get and even finish.. So with regards to your pegs on the blade and RS you would need to polish them (to a degree) first. I shall be in the shed this weekend with a bucket of water, some wet and dry and a cold hand!! Cheers for the answers lads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will#224 Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 I shall be in the shed this weekend with a bucket of water, some wet and dry and a cold hand!! A dash of soap, fairy liquid, will help stop the wet and dry clogging up and have you tried warm water? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monty_zac Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 I shall be in the shed this weekend with a bucket of water, some wet and dry and a cold hand!! fucking sicko Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanuki Posted February 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2010 A dash of soap, fairy liquid, will help stop the wet and dry clogging up and have you tried warm water? cheers for that.....yes I suppose I could try warm water.... fucking sicko Moi! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanuki Posted March 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2010 Spent a couple of hours wet n drying the swingarm the other days and doing it that way is going to take for ever... Recon this will do the job? http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/...ring--polishing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cagimaha Posted March 1, 2010 Report Share Posted March 1, 2010 Yeah it'll do it. Only thing is it'll wreck the bearings in your drill so ake sure you use an old shitty one. When I was about 13 I used my dads decent drill with some flap wheels in it to clean up a set of spannies and he wasn't best pleased when he next went to use it and it would only drill oval holes... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanuki Posted March 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2010 cool cheers....I'll be using it with my mini grinder thing and my compressor! hmmm could pop in ti hein gerrik and get some 2T oil on the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanuki Posted March 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2010 five fucking hours I have just spent getting whatever it is that Honda put on the ally off.....my arms are killing and I am covered in compound!! still its %90 done now I can go at it with the wet and dry to try and get some of these scratches out before going over it one more time with the polisher before scotchbriting it... this was a far bigger job than I anticipated!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cagimaha Posted March 3, 2010 Report Share Posted March 3, 2010 Tell me about it. I once sanded a MkII golf right back to bare metal. By hand. Admittedly there were two of us but it still took two days. Still the more time you take over the preparation then the better it looks. This was all done with halfrauds rattle cans and a bit of old skool lead slinging by myself Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.