jaycee Posted February 14, 2010 Report Share Posted February 14, 2010 Bike died on my today. Went for a run with a friend up to Fife. She was leading as I don't know the roads and shes is a reformed Fifer herself. We stopped outside some houses, I thought we'd arrived at the folk we were supposed to visiting, so I reversed into the pavement, bike still in first gear, clutch in. I accidentally knocked the kill switch but as I was stopping anyway, I just switched off the bike and reset the switch. When I realised she was just showing me her old house, I tried to restart the bike. Nothing, barely turned over, FI light was staying on. Can't start with a bump, rolled down a hill to about 20mph, tried bumping into 3rd gear, nothing, nada, fuck-all. The bike has been dumped in one of her friend's garage unti lI can arrange a van to pick it up, hopefully tomorrow night. My first port of call will be the battery, although the bike has been connected to the Optimate all week as usual. Then if the battery's fine its time to get the faring off and trace through the circuits. There go my last 2 days off work, arse! Any pointers appreciated. Oh and to add to the indignation, I had to ride pillion with my friend on her Bandit, she is currently slaughtering me on another forum we frequent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted February 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2010 Sidestand switch? Would that not prevent the bike from firing at all? Its worth a look though, I should have thought of that really. I just got annoyed and flustered about breaking down when out with a lady-friend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fran9r Posted February 14, 2010 Report Share Posted February 14, 2010 It struck me it's something to do with the kill switch -I'd check it with a multimetre. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted February 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2010 It struck me it's something to do with the kill switch -I'd check it with a multimetre. Once I get the bike home, I will go over it top to bottom. I hope it is something stupid like a side-stand switch, or a dicky kill switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted February 14, 2010 Report Share Posted February 14, 2010 Yep, my money'd be on an iffy switch. Arm yourself with about 35 gallons of WD40 and get spraying. Don't know if the FI version has the same as my carbed one, but you've a clutch, a sidestand and kill switch, multimeter and squirting should sort it. Also, just because it's easy, take a look at the fuses. If you've got your multimeter out, have a look at how the battery's being charged when the bike's running: 12v ish when it's off, jumping up to 13v ish when ticking over, then flattening out at about 14v at a handful of thousand rpm's and not getting any higher from there upwards. If it's not doing this, and it keeps going up then you might have a toasted battery as well as a knackered reg/rec. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banoffee Posted February 14, 2010 Report Share Posted February 14, 2010 there's a plug with 2 wires under the rear seat that has nothing plugged into it. stick a paper clip in it to connect wires and the dash will tell you the error code which you can then look up. think I've still got the workshop manual for my 750WW somewhere but you can easily look 'em up on t'internet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wavydavy Posted February 14, 2010 Report Share Posted February 14, 2010 It's fucked. I'll give you a fiver for it as scrap - do you deliver to France? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted February 14, 2010 Report Share Posted February 14, 2010 Forgot to say, do you have enough petrol in it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted February 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2010 It's fucked. I'll give you a fiver for it as scrap - do you deliver to France? Sorry, can't do, got far too much power for you Faux Frenchies Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stoockie Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 Sorry, can't do, got far too much power for you Faux Frenchies Check the yellow block connector under the ram air scoop(left side) Theres a drain hole in the duct which is right above the mass of wiring which is in a perfect position to corrode everything when the bike is on the sidestand. They moved everything to the right hand side when they brought the K model out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roastdinajima Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 I don't know if the FI system was the same between the SRAD and K1-3 but this was the method for getting the fault codes and their meanings for the K1-3 600/750 and 1000 Open your rear seat and you'll see a black cap covering a connector/harness on the left side of the seat. If you take the cap off, you'll see it appears to be a normal harness. With your key in the ignition and bike turned to "on" (but not running), take a paperclip and short the two connectors out (by touching the two contacts together). It should display the error code on your display instead of just FI now. GSXR Fuel Injection (FI) Code List: C14 - THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR C15 - ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR C21 - INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR C22 - ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE SENSOR C23 - TIPOVER SENSOR C24 - IGNITION SIGNAL #1 C25 - IGNITION SIGNAL #2 C26 - IGNITION SIGNAL #3 C27 - IGNITION SIGNAL #4 C28 - SECONDARY THROTTLE VALVE ACTUATOR C29 - SECONDARY THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR C30 - SECONDARY THROTTLE CONTROL UNIT C31 - GEAR POSITION SENSOR C32 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #1 C33 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #2 C34 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #3 C35 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #4 C41 - FUEL PUMP CONTROL SYSTEM C42 - IGNITION SWITCH SIGNAL C46 - EXHAUST CONTROL VALVE ACTUATOR (1000 ONLY) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krazyk Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 If engine was turning over, albeit slowly, then it can´t be the side stand or kill switches, same for the clutch switch,these are all starter motor inhibitors. My battery died last year after a run , just gave up, I would first check ignition on, lights on and see if you´ve got anything; lights off and retry starting, again if a bit better you should then take the seat off and check the battery volts as mentioned above. should it not be the battery then reg/rec check. I fitted a slightly larger battery this time, charges, holds charge and spins starter-motor up lighter. Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 Yep , agree with KK, if it's trying to turn over but having trouble (I just thought it wasn't happening on the bottun at all), then it's most likely just about power getting to the starter, or the starter itself. Check the battery, check the solenoid (see if it's switching properly when you press the button), then if that all checks out, your starter motor's probably knackered. There's a really slim chance that something funky's happened with the injectors or the head gasket and it's caused a hydraulic lock, but the chances are pretty slim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krazyk Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 So now we´ve got you thinking about the technical problems, we want to know :::::: Are you really that slow, or do you like looking at leather clad female upholstery? did you kill the bike just to get close to her? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krazyk Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 So now we´ve got you thinking about the technical problems, we want to know :::::: Are you really that slow, or do you like looking at leather clad female upholstery? did you kill the bike just to get close to her? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted February 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 So now we´ve got you thinking about the technical problems, we want to know :::::: Are you really that slow, or do you like looking at leather clad female upholstery? did you kill the bike just to get close to her? I need NO excuse to get close to this particular lady Ok, technical update. A friend dropped by today, told him about the bike and that I was trying to organise a van. Turns out he knows a guy who owns a bike workshop near where I broke down. We got the bike taken in another of his mate's van to this bike shop. We now think I may have alternator problems. He says he'll have it ready for me tomorrow night and I'm getting mate's rates too, even though I've just met the guy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted February 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2010 OK, Despite always being left on the Optimate when in the garage, turns out my battery was stuffed. Bloke checked all my electrics, sorted out some bodgery that was in the loom due to the removal of an immobiliser and removed £65 from my wallet. Rode bike home from Glenrothes to Grangemouth in freezing fog, inside of visor froze up 10 miles from home, had to ride with it up. Still at least its fixed and it wasn't a major fault. I need to learn not to panic everytime something goes wrong. The brighter side is that I've met some very decent folk in Fife and discovered a fantastic bike workshop/dyno shop. Oh, and also been made a member of a rather exclusive Scottish bike forum that's only available by invite, as I met the Big Heid Yin that runs the site. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banoffee Posted February 17, 2010 Report Share Posted February 17, 2010 glad you're sorted. I have had probs with optimates before so got rid in favour of ctek ones - great bits of kit and superb aftersales service too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted February 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2010 WELL, its NOT the battery after all. Bike was dead when I went out just now to run round to the jet wash to remove last night's crud from it. Barely turning over again. Bloke at the bike shop where I left it told me it was charging ok. Something must be drawing current somewhere. Brand new battery dead. I'll need to take the bike to bits next week when I return from offshore. F***ing pee'd off now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fran9r Posted February 17, 2010 Report Share Posted February 17, 2010 When the reg/rec went on my 9, the old one didn't give the Kawasaki readings when tested. Neither did the new one, but it worked! That would be my next thing to check...I'm get your dealer to check if pattern parts are available too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted February 17, 2010 Report Share Posted February 17, 2010 Once you get back on dry land, get your faithful multimeter (you have got one, haven't you?) and do some tests as outlined here. This'll show if your reg rec's capable of overcharging, and although strictly speaking, this is a different problem, 99% of the time if your reg/rec's not charging properly, then it'll also mean that the diode's gone which'll then be the thing drawing the current. You could also get your meter, disconnect one terminal off the battery, and then put the meter so that it's bridging the gap you've just created and check to see how much current is passing through it. Only do this with the bike off, and don't on any account try to start the bike with the meter in the circuit, you'll die. Possibly. More likely just kill the meter, but there's nothing like a bit of melodrama, is there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted February 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2010 Took off all the body work this afternoon, the bike is reasonably unscathed under there for 12 years old. Checked the diode, don't seem to be getting a decent reading through it. Will get a new relay ordered ASAP. The reg/rec readings list in the Haynes Big Book of Vagueness says to test in Kilo Ohms and has a table for that. Unfortunately my fancy Fluke only has auto-ranging Ohms scale and is showing varying readings in Meg-Ohms, somewhat higher than the book states.. I'll start off by replacing the diode and see. How much is a reg/rec roughly? Recommend me a good pattern parts supplier please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted February 27, 2010 Report Share Posted February 27, 2010 How much is a reg/rec roughly? I paid about £65 from memory, for a replica Honda, which ironically, are usually more reliable than the pukka honda item. Make sure whatever one you get has the biggest fins you can find, overheating is usually what kills them, other than that they tend to be pretty reliable. Make sure your battery's OK when you first get it going, and don't have your lights on, stereo on full blast, wipers going and the heated rear screen etc if you've a low battery; you don't want to draw a huge amount of current as that's what causes the heating uppage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted February 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2010 Ok get this, I wanted to check the voltages so I connected up the battery again and it ran perfectly! 13.8-14.9 VDC until 5k when its gets clipped back to 14.2. Still going to change that diode though, I'm not happy with the reading. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregtrx Posted February 28, 2010 Report Share Posted February 28, 2010 sure you haven't got a loose connection at the terminal or something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted February 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2010 sure you haven't got a loose connection at the terminal or something? I was chatting about this with some other guys last night. On the day I had lots of stuff under the seat hump: my spare gloves, my little toolbag, chain lube, a lock, my friends spare gloves and her cap. It was a squeeze to get the seat hump on TBH. So I had wondered whether I had pinched a wire or pulled a plug. I have checked all the terminals now and it all seems ok. Its a strange one, everything's coming up textbook now, apart from that impedance on the diode, perhaps that's beginning to break down, so I'll order a replacement when I get a chance. I was going to go ou tfor a run, with the bodywork left off in case I have to go over it again, but its dismal here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
budda Posted February 28, 2010 Report Share Posted February 28, 2010 It's fucked. I'll give you a fiver for it as scrap - do you deliver to France? This is getting to be a habit with you Davy, have you got that tenner for my fucked zx10r??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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