will#224 Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 Brand new bike, 300 miles run in on road, stripped lights off it now and put an Akra race system on. Now it wont start, spoke to dealers and they are baffled. We have spark, pressure at injecter rail, fuel but the issue seems to be no trigger for injectors so no fuel in cylinders. Tried bumping etc. Easy start in cylinders and it fires right up. Any clues folks? Was planning to take it for power commander fitting and setting up tomorrow but it aint playing. Surely the lights wouldn't complete part of the loom? Back on it tomorrow, gimme a clue what else to look for! Will Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tootall Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 O² sensor problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will#224 Posted February 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 O² sensor problem? Thats what i thought, Its plugged in and doesn't come up with a fault if its disconnected. Problem is i think in changing the exhaust my cousin has spun the wires up and pulled one. Nothing obvious but i reckon thats the only possibility. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fran9r Posted February 12, 2010 Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 Is it turning over when you try to start it? If not my money would be on a crank or cam sensor. Trace the wiring for both? Where were the wires located that got pulled? If it's a racebike, are the stock clocks retained...and have you tried it with the sidestand cut-out reconnected? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will#224 Posted February 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 Yeah it turns over and tries to start I found the service and race kit manual online and it suggests that since the lights etc were removed whilst the battery was plugged in we should just disconnect the battery and it will reset the error code. If not we'll find out what error code it is this aft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blow_away Posted February 13, 2010 Report Share Posted February 13, 2010 Have you removed the ignition key barrel? This is a long shot but worth checking. Years ago I had a KLE 500 (I know...........) At the time, some prick was repeatedly trying to steal my bike by mullering the ignition, so a friend of mine developed a system to switch on the ignition using a car style remote fob. We fitted the system and the bike would not start. After many hours head scratching we discovered a resistor (or was it a capacitor, sorry I'm not good with electrical stuff) fitted to the underside of the key barrel. We whipped it out and refitted it as a plug in to the loom using a guitar XLR plug and socket for extra security, Et Viola, bike stared fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stupid luke Posted February 14, 2010 Report Share Posted February 14, 2010 Real wild guess but on my fireblade the tilt switch is carried by the headlight on the OE fairing. You know the ball bearing thingy that senses the bike is upright. Soon as I stripped the fairing off, it turned over but wouldnt start. I had disconnected the plug thinking it was part of the lights. Solution, reconnect the plug and cable tie the tilt switch, in an upright position, inside the race fairing. Maybe Kawasaki do something similar? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will#224 Posted February 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2010 Real wild guess but on my fireblade the tilt switch is carried by the headlight on the OE fairing. You know the ball bearing thingy that senses the bike is upright. Soon as I stripped the fairing off, it turned over but wouldnt start. I had disconnected the plug thinking it was part of the lights. Solution, reconnect the plug and cable tie the tilt switch, in an upright position, inside the race fairing. Maybe Kawasaki do something similar? This is the one we found to be the problem, it was part of the loom that then ran on to the lights and my cousin had removed it all thinking it was light related. It looked that way too. We got a copy of the service manual, found the error code and couldn't find the box. It was in a box with the lights. ha ha. All sorted now. We'd done everything we could think of, even checking the exhaust valve was working. All was well, the simplest things eh? Kwak in there wisdom had tucked everything in so tight we didn't even notice it. Dyno day tomorrow. We got the Kit Kwak manual too so we might be adding more trick bits in the near future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will#224 Posted February 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2010 Sounds an odd one. If you've got a spark it's unlikely to be a loss of crank or cam position (this can be confirmed by checking the dynamic timing and making sure the spark timing is controlled and not just random) and if you've got a spark it isn't sidestand or clutch cutout and isn't the igntion barrel "anti-hotwire" resistor. Does the fuel pump prime when you turn the igntion on and does it stay running? When you say you've got pressure at the fuel rail, how do you know and what pressure is it at? Most injectors won't work unless they've got a fair bit of pressure (at least 2 bar) behind them. Have you got the fuel return and breathers all connected correctly and without any kinks? Exactly the stuff i'd checked, we didn't know the pressure as such but it runs secondary injectors as standard, i removed the fuel supply and when the fuel pump primed the fuel squirted with such force it hit the roof. We thought that was sufficient. These mass centralised bikes are amazing but a bugger to work on! Going for the Kit loom next to simplify the whole setup. There must be 10kg of unused wire and plugs at the mo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.