tonk Posted December 1, 2009 Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 Each front Brembo caliper is held on to the forks by 2 bolts. Each caliper is in 2 parts, using 4 flush bolts, with torx heads, on each to hold the 2 halves together. Can I remove these bolts, one at a time, without knackering the caliper? I want to clean them and size them for stainless replacements but I don't how calipers are constructed inside - will they pee fluid? At any one time there would only be 1 bolt out with 3 left in. And are there any alternatives to Pro-Bolt? The last lot I got appeared to be made of fudge, every single one turned the head and that was using Snap-On allen sockets, tapped home for a good seat and no more than 30nm on the torque wrench. Cheers peeps! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedy sie Posted December 1, 2009 Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 im no cow boy,but as i ride all year ,this is one of the first things i do ,out with steel,in with stainless.iv always taken one ,and then put a stainless one in its place,then do next,and iv never had a problem.tell me difrent and ill take a lesson.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted December 1, 2009 Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 You can remove these bolts, and there's a probability that they'll leak a bit, but unless you start squeezing the lever (there's always that temptation, isn't there) then there' shouldn't be too much that'll come out if you leave the others on. However, my bet is that you'll probably have to take the calipers off to remove them, they're usually done up really really tightley and you'll want a bit of room around them so you can get something big on them. Obviously, if they leak a bit, just do a quick bleed up afterwards, you'll only lose a drop at worst. As for which bolt to go for, I dunno, but I'd be interested, as I'd quite like to replace these maybe, and I'd definatley like to get some stainless ones to hold the caliper to the fork leg, metalurgists, are you out there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
originalracingsnake Posted December 1, 2009 Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 And are there any alternatives to Pro-Bolt? The last lot I got appeared to be made of fudge, every single one turned the head and that was using Snap-On allen sockets, tapped home for a good seat and no more than 30nm on the torque wrench. Not good! What did ProBolt say about the issue, and did they replace the faulty items? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fran9r Posted December 1, 2009 Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 Not good! What did ProBolt say about the issue, and did they replace the faulty items? 'They all do that sir' presumably. The ally fairing stuff is crap. Such a shame not all the fittings are standard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MotoNik Posted December 1, 2009 Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 I've been advised against using Stainless Steel for braking components, as it's apparently more brittle than Mild Steel. I'm not a metallurgist, so can't confirm if this is correct. That said, I have used SS bolts for my calipers in the past, and they were fine. The other problem with stainless is it can sometimes be softer than mild steel, and if you round off an allen head it's an absolute arse to drill out. Stainless work-hardens really quickly, so as soon as you start to drill it, it becomes super-hard and knackers all drill bits known to man. Don't ask me how I know this... I'd recommend either sticking to mild steel, or for the sake of a few bolts, fork out the extra and get some super-blingy titanium. Oh, and find your local fastener specialist - you're likely to save a few quid. Regarding the bolts which hold the two halves of your caliper together, you will find that if you were to split your caliper you will have o-rings around the fluid "hole" (for want of a more technical term!), to stop it leaking where fluid passes from one side of the caliper to the other. So by removing one bolt at a time you are likely to minimise any leakage. That said, for the sake of ten minutes to bleed the brakes afterwards, it's not exactly a big deal. Nik Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedy sie Posted December 1, 2009 Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 just add my bit.im a stainless enginer,and to drill stainless steal,you have to slow drill bit down ( as heat hardens the surface keep the hole beeing drilled as cool as posible red heat and your fucked...) re profile to a shalower angle,like milling bit to take smaller amounts off,plentey or cutting fluid and also use stainles drill bits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorenzo Posted December 1, 2009 Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 Chroming bolts is kind of missing the point. If I'm buying posh bolts then i'm buying them so they don't corrode into the thing they're threaded in to, and a shiney bit on the top's not going to help, it'll just look gash the first time I take it out in the winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
originalracingsnake Posted December 1, 2009 Report Share Posted December 1, 2009 Or use OEM bolts, copperslip or thread lock them as required, then paint them once torqued down using a small brush and hammerite. I've done most of mine like this, in black. Blob of yellow paint on them for the factory racer look and to lock them in place. Smear of grease over the heads (put a socket filled with grease over the head and rock it side to side to coat the bolt head). Even the puny allen headed cheese bolts they use on Suzuki mudguards have survived me and a whole season of all weather riding this way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexp5 Posted December 2, 2009 Report Share Posted December 2, 2009 Please don't use stainless bolts to attach calipers to fork legs. I would suggest titanium or stick with o.e.m. hi-ten steel. High tensile steel will bend, titanium will not budge, stainless is brittle and can snap without warning. Besides... titanium is 'the sex' . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firehawk Posted December 2, 2009 Report Share Posted December 2, 2009 Each front Brembo caliper is held on to the forks by 2 bolts. Each caliper is in 2 parts, using 4 flush bolts, with torx heads, on each to hold the 2 halves together. Can I remove these bolts, one at a time, without knackering the caliper? I want to clean them and size them for stainless replacements but I don't how calipers are constructed inside - will they pee fluid? At any one time there would only be 1 bolt out with 3 left in. And are there any alternatives to Pro-Bolt? The last lot I got appeared to be made of fudge, every single one turned the head and that was using Snap-On allen sockets, tapped home for a good seat and no more than 30nm on the torque wrench. Cheers peeps! Did this with my Brembo HPK calipers. Replaced the four torx bolts with titanium button-head bolts and plenty of Ti prep. I removed them one at a time. Bolt holes are located outside of the fluid cavities. Calipers are sealed, nothing will come out. I used racebolts.com, but I also used Pro-Bolt. I thought Pro-Bolt quality was top-notch. You sure that last batch you got wasn't aluminum? Grade 5 titanium can take A LOT of torque. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted December 2, 2009 Report Share Posted December 2, 2009 I remember a thread on aonther forum years ago warning against stainless in aluminium because of some electo-chemical thing I won't even pretend to understand. waht hppens is that the two metals react and weld solid when exposed to salt/water? Am I talking/ typing pish again? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firehawk Posted December 2, 2009 Report Share Posted December 2, 2009 I remember a thread on aonther forum years ago warning against stainless in aluminium because of some electo-chemical thing I won't even pretend to understand. waht hppens is that the two metals react and weld solid when exposed to salt/water? Am I talking/ typing pish again? Nope. In aviation, we call it 'dissimilar metal' corrosion or 'galvanic' corrosion. One metal becomes an 'anode', the other a 'cathode', and the salt water becomes an electrolyte between the two. You'll commonly see this corrosion between steel fastners and aluminum panels in aircraft structures. Galvanic Corrosion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted December 2, 2009 Report Share Posted December 2, 2009 ... and this is why i use copper grease Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firehawk Posted December 3, 2009 Report Share Posted December 3, 2009 ... and this is why i use copper grease Or, as Pro-Bolt calls it, "Ti Prep". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted December 3, 2009 Report Share Posted December 3, 2009 ...and this why you are actually accelarating the galvanic corrosion that occurs between aly and stainless. You should use nickel or ally assembly spray/paste. Really? I was always told to use copaslip during assembly. Where do I get this wondrous stuff Mille? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted December 3, 2009 Report Share Posted December 3, 2009 http://www.solvitol.internext.co.uk/tech_aluantiseize.htm http://www.bondloc.co.uk/pdfs/Bondloc_B7773.pdf http://www.eriks.co.uk/Anti-Seize-Lubricant/ To add, I should have said Nickel free anti sieze for use with stainless Ok I need to get another magic potion for the garage cupboards then. Was I the only one thinking copper grease was the solution to everything? Or am I just thick? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bezzer Posted December 3, 2009 Report Share Posted December 3, 2009 Ok I need to get another magic potion for the garage cupboards then. Was I the only one thinking copper grease was the solution to everything? Or am I just thick? You're thick, but then so am I, can't see the point of buying more expensive "specialist" stuff for use on a bike when copper grease does the job just fine, always used it on stainless/alloy with no problems and always will. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
originalracingsnake Posted December 4, 2009 Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 You're thick, but then so am I, can't see the point of buying more expensive "specialist" stuff for use on a bike when copper grease does the job just fine, always used it on stainless/alloy with no problems and always will. Phew, me too. And my Dad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaycee Posted December 4, 2009 Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 AHH, you mentioned DECENT grades of stainless steel, but I have a Suzuki (my 3rd, SRAD, Blandit 6 and SV650), that's why copper grease has never given any bother. The only other bikes I have owned were a Hinckley Triumph 955 , and a 1970's Honda. Not really seen decent fasteneres. Although to be fair, the Triumph was in a completely different league to the rest, apart from bloody Torx fasteners. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bezzer Posted December 4, 2009 Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 Copper anti-sieze is used where a ferrous steel is mechanically joined with aluminium. Now you're just talking bollocks, stainless is a ferrous metal, FFS ALL steel is ferrous, so by that you CAN use copper grease. I don't care where it sits in the table I've never seen a copper greased stainless fastener seized in aluminium on a bike. Worst case scenario are the header bolts, copper grease will get burnt off eventually unless you keep on top of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedy sie Posted December 4, 2009 Report Share Posted December 4, 2009 i work in the chiken industrey,and all bolts and nuts are stailes steel,and we use a white litheum/aliminum grease on all asembleas,and bleave me the envoroment they work in is fucking harsh,and iv never seen eny corrosion bettween stainless and aliminum.and they dont size up either..some parts arnt striped for 12 months and come apart easy..(aliminum is mane material for castings) and as for stanless steal,there are to mane groops magnetic and nomagnetic.one is suseptable to oxdising on serface,but i think when its presure formed it then becomes magnetic due to the electrons are re aranged in on orderley structure and then become magnetic.wich then can couse oxidisation....fuck me did that just come out of my brain eny way its like back to fucking collage here,if you use your brakes and clean them as lough you love them(mine ar of every sunday for strip and clean).you souldnt have eny problem with the bolts... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonk Posted December 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 i don't belive this, i just typed war and peace, clicked back to check a reference, clicked back and poof! all gone! in a nutshell - thanks to you all, will go with snake's suggestion of all black with yellow tell-tales. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TriGGer Posted December 6, 2009 Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 i don't belive this, i just typed war and peace, clicked back to check a reference, clicked back and poof! all gone! Ctrl+T m8, Ctrl+T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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