nzknut Posted October 6, 2009 Report Posted October 6, 2009 I"m going to have a look/test ride an RD250LC tomorrow, what goes wrong with them? Is there anything to look out for in particular? I've played the old two stroke game before, and this one supposedly has a "recon'd engine and box" looks all standard too.. oh and its about 500quid, white with reddish brown Josh.
cagimaha Posted October 6, 2009 Report Posted October 6, 2009 If theyre standard then theres not really that much that goes wrong on them. There were some problems with the very first ones cracking exhausts and things but any problems like that should have been ironed out by now. Its when the "tuning" has been carried out that the problems usually arise. Other points are: for some reason people seem to want to put huge tires on them which ruins the handling and K&N filters with the chrome end caps cause the biggest flat spot ever unless theyre spaced away from the carb a bit. Hope this helps, Ben.
gnarly Posted October 6, 2009 Report Posted October 6, 2009 Just the normal wear and tear too look for, like cag said as long as the ports have not been attacked by a dremmel wielding gibbon it should be a good un,worth a look around and in the tank for rust as they rot from the inside at the bottom, but for 500 quid if the plastics and tank are good it's probably worth that much to sell in bits.
fatfreddie19 Posted October 6, 2009 Report Posted October 6, 2009 Just the normal wear and tear too look for, like cag said as long as the ports have not been attacked by a dremmel wielding gibbon it should be a good un,worth a look around and in the tank for rust as they rot from the inside at the bottom, but for 500 quid if the plastics and tank are good it's probably worth that much to sell in bits. Check the rad for creamy coloured deposits, (head gasket failure or water pump) creamy gearbox oil,(water pump seal) Uneven smoke out of exhausts (oil pump failure). Ground off and restamped engine numbers,(should be on a raised section rather than flat to the cases) Check the rear drum brake for ovality as it's a common fault. And the usual engine noises too, rumbling means the mains are fooked, knocking =big ends and any smoke that doesn't smell pleasant, i.e acrid means the crankcase seals are shot. But i'd buy an lc 250 with nearly all of the above if it still has the OE rear mudguard!!
nzknut Posted October 6, 2009 Author Report Posted October 6, 2009 thanks for the help guys, i'll let you know what its like to test ride tonight, coming off a ZXR250 so bit gutted it'll have half the brakes, and half the revs but should be mega. got some drop bars lying around for it, or maybe low rise MX'ers.. here's the pic
nzknut Posted October 6, 2009 Author Report Posted October 6, 2009 But i'd buy an lc 250 with nearly all of the above if it still has the OE rear mudguard!! whats the deal with this then?? does everyone smash them off in britain?
Ray Von Posted October 7, 2009 Report Posted October 7, 2009 Aye, they cut them off and make two little brackets for the number plate. I'd check for wheelie damage too, as they were known for spending plenty of time on the back wheel as well as riding into hedges as hard as possible. Looks pretty original, which is remarkable really, as they never stayed that way for long from new.
nzknut Posted October 7, 2009 Author Report Posted October 7, 2009 So.. I rode the RD. Sitting on the bike, its comfortable compared to my ZXR.. the bars are wide, and the pegs are low. Started first kick, ran quietly for a two stroke, and the gbox oil was brown. Not very smokey.. So off we go, down the road, short shift it first and second, then up to 8'000 in the next two gears, it gets along nicely, noticeable note change about 6'000 rpm, but feels less peaky than my ZXR First corner, OHMYFUCKINGGODTHERESNOBRAKES!!!! Turn, down two, four fingers and the front, 5 toes on the rear and we slow marginally.. handles well though! told the guy give it tax and MOT and i'll buy it.. riding it home will be exciting i should think though.. then off for a braided line and a master cyl & caliper rebuild. the disc felt new so im not sure what the deal is with the brakes. the rear was wound almost fully out so hopefully giving it another 5mm turn in will improve it to a point i can almost stop
nzknut Posted October 7, 2009 Author Report Posted October 7, 2009 oh, the fork seals need doing, but the headstock bearings felt okay..
Coose Posted October 7, 2009 Report Posted October 7, 2009 Does it have matching frame and engine numbers? If so you've got a bit of a bargain! Braided hose and decent pads will sort the brakes. Ok, I'm lying - they'll be rubbish whatever you do! Has it got the tie-bars under the front of the engine to the frame? If not you may suffer with cracking exhausts, though it was only the first year (1980) that didn't have these. Look for play in the rear shocker pins, though these are now being remade and so are available if required. Check the oil pump settings, particularly the shimming of the pump stroke as this normally isn't checked and is as equally important as the setting of the pump cam. Other than these and the other points mentioned, crack it open and enjoy!
gnarly Posted October 8, 2009 Report Posted October 8, 2009 snipity... But i'd buy an lc 250 with nearly all of the above if it still has the OE rear mudguard!! http://homepage.ntlworld.com/ultimatelccrazy/ This guy sells good quality repro LC rear mudguards for 55 quid amongst other stuff on his website, if this is any help to ya.
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