RVF400 Recommission

[dhtmbowen]

I've just bought an RVF400 with 15,000kms on the clock.

It was crashed (low speed lowside) somewhere between 4 and 5 years ago and garaged ever since.

I have a series of questions:

1. The engine hasn't been turned over in all that time.

I've never had to deal with something like this before so would appreciate some advice.

What do I need to do before attempting to start the engine?

What's the best way of starting the motor when I've done my preparation?

2. Any advice on a good trackday tyre?

3. The exhaust is moderately crushed level with the ns footpeg: should I be concerned about it? If so how do I go about fixing it / replacing it and what with?

4. NS bodywork i.e. lower fairing, bellypan and tail unit are quite badly damaged. Is the best course of action just to put race rep body work on and, if so, who's is best?

Thanks

[Gobert23]

1. The engine hasn't been turned over in all that time.

I've never had to deal with something like this before so would appreciate some advice.

What do I need to do before attempting to start the engine?

Dump the oil and perform a normal service to begin with. This'll remove some of the condensation that might've (likely) built up in the engine.

Don't be tempted to fire it up, just to warm the oil through. Just dump the oil, change the filter and you'll come back to that later.

You'll probably want a new set of plugs and a new airfilter as well.

Valve clearences could be checked (normally fine), but popping the covers off will at least let you see if there's any condensation/moisture gotten to the top of the motor.

Once all the fluids are changed, you can turn the engine by popping it into gear (with the plugs out - stops compression) and rolling it. You'll not go fast enough to get oil to the top of the motor/heads, but it'll get a little circulating around the bottom.

To be honest, I'd probably leave it a day then dump the oil again (but this time not changing the filter).

Personally, I might be tempted to put a few drops of oil on the cams, when I'd be looking at the top-end, just to have a small amount of lubrication there when you eventually fire it up.

Fuel system? Dump everything and get it all flushed out. Carbs might be more than a lil' bunged up.

Drain the tank and get fresh fuel. Drain the carbs (there's a drain screw) and flush them through with a lil' carb cleaner, if nothing else. If you're wanting to go the whole hog, take them out and get them cleaned properly.

Check the condition of the supply pipes as well. Last thing you want is a split fuel line.

What's the best way of starting the motor when I've done my preparation?

All of the above... Plus a fresh battery (sounds obvious) and fresh plugs. The lil' V4's a gem and will fire up pretty easy.

>2. Any advice on a good trackday tyre?

It'll be right on the recommended limit (weight wise) for Dunlop Alpha 10's. I used to run ol' BT56SS's (so duno what the equivalent is now?)

>3. The exhaust is moderately crushed level with the ns footpeg: should I be concerned about it? If so how do I go about fixing it / replacing it and what with?

You can get lovely rearsets from Tyga Performance, along with a replacement system as well, but be prepared to spend a few quid.

>4. NS bodywork i.e. lower fairing, bellypan and tail unit are quite badly damaged. Is the best course of action just to put race rep body work on and, if so, who's is best?

<Shrug> Try people like UK Race Products(?), but I'd guess Tyga Performance, Wemoto, Elliott Motorcycles (if they're still around) would be the first place I'd look.

G

[Marb]

When we start up bikes at work that have been sat around for a while, we do exactly all of the above except for the valve clearences. You can check them later. Fresh fluids, fresh plugs then walk up and down the street with her without the plug. When you remove the old plugs and they are corroded drop in a drop of olie into the cilinders. Just a drop (teaspoon) and then walk with her. This wil help free up any possibly stuck pistonrings and prevent them from breaking/eating up your cilinders.

Other than that, when she starts up. Don't rev her. Just let her idle at 2/3000rpm on the choke for abit to clean her up. Then let het idle for a 10mins or so. This should get the thermostat working. IF the temp rises and the fan doesnt start up you've got a siezed thermostat or a coroded plug somwhere.

Drain the fuel, clean the tank and replace fuelfilter.

First few miles take it easy, after say 20min of riding, just treat her like you would any bike.

[RealityRSV]

might be an idea to stick up a generalised version of this advice in workshop tutorials.

good luck getting it going again!

[dhtmbowen]

Thanks for the advice.

I'm picking her up and all the bits on Friday.

I'll post piccies and progress in project bikes.