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R1 wont idle


rndnick

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My 5JJ R1 is struggling to idle, its fine when cold, can turn the choke off almost instantly and it will idle fine. However, when it gets to (around) 70 ish on the temp gauge it wont idle. Pull up at a set of traffic lights and it will hunt around for a bit (few seconds at best) then cut out. Also at lower revs at this temperature it feels 'rough'.

Once the temp seems to get to the mid 90's it then idles at just over 1500 rpm and seem's fine. When normal fast road riding it feels good and revs both cleanly & quickly with no coughs or splutters. (until you stop for lights, junction, etc!)

I do know that the previous owner has changed the jetting by moving the circlip on the needle to make the mixture richer. Would this cause it?

Any thoughts?

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My 5JJ R1 is struggling to idle, its fine when cold, can turn the choke off almost instantly and it will idle fine. However, when it gets to (around) 70 ish on the temp gauge it wont idle. Pull up at a set of traffic lights and it will hunt around for a bit (few seconds at best) then cut out. Also at lower revs at this temperature it feels 'rough'.

Once the temp seems to get to the mid 90's it then idles at just over 1500 rpm and seem's fine. When normal fast road riding it feels good and revs both cleanly & quickly with no coughs or splutters. (until you stop for lights, junction, etc!)

I do know that the previous owner has changed the jetting by moving the circlip on the needle to make the mixture richer. Would this cause it?

Any thoughts?

It does sound rich at idle...I'd set it back to standard first. Any idea whay the previous owner was trying to fix by making it richer? If he said he's changed the jetting, perhaps the jets themselves are different -worth checking while you have the carbs off. There should be a reference in the workshop manual.

After that you are looking at new needles and needle jets.

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It does sound rich at idle...I'd set it back to standard first. Any idea whay the previous owner was trying to fix by making it richer? If he said he's changed the jetting, perhaps the jets themselves are different -worth checking while you have the carbs off. There should be a reference in the workshop manual.

After that you are looking at new needles and needle jets.

I beleive he did as it as it 'used to work on old 2 strokes' to give more power. I dont have a manual to hand, does anyone know the standard circlip position on the needles?

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I beleive he did as it as it 'used to work on old 2 strokes' to give more power. I dont have a manual to hand, does anyone know the standard circlip position on the needles?

If I'm back down at my garage tonight I'll have a look and see if they're in the Haynes manual

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If I'm back down at my garage tonight I'll have a look and see if they're in the Haynes manual

cheers. hopefully looking at it this weekend. Just started to use the bike everyday for teh commute to work and it's real annoying having to hold the throttle or (re)start the bike at every set of traffic lights.

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Could be valve clearance, when it gets hot the close up. ?

Edit to add> Obviously check all carb settings and air filter first. Pilot screws, float levels etc.

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