VFR Engine Mount

[widdy]

HI

anyone have any ideas on how to remove a VFR 750 engine mount bolt?? circa 1992 never been serviced, cat c

i've made a castelated nut to remove the locknut, and the standard nut on the left side came off a breeze, unfortunatly the 6mm allen key on a breaker bar didn't quite have the desired effect of freeing the bolt.

i've tried the following-

Impact wrench (before the breaker bar)

WD40 (before, after and during)

Flame thrower.

i'd get the angle grinder on it but the wife took it of me to be on the safe side.

[Mark/Foggy]

HI

anyone have any ideas on how to remove a VFR 750 engine mount bolt?? circa 1992 never been serviced, cat c

i've made a castelated nut to remove the locknut, and the standard nut on the left side came off a breeze, unfortunatly the 6mm allen key on a breaker bar didn't quite have the desired effect of freeing the bolt.

i've tried the following-

Impact wrench (before the breaker bar)

WD40 (before, after and during)

Flame thrower.

i'd get the angle grinder on it but the wife took it of me to be on the safe side.

[fastdruid]

HI

anyone have any ideas on how to remove a VFR 750 engine mount bolt?? circa 1992 never been serviced, cat c

i'd get the angle grinder on it but the wife took it of me to be on the safe side.

Is this the lower rear bolt? I used the angle grinder then hammered out the remains.

But then mine was a 89 and I thought the 92 was different. Have a look underneath the engine, I thought the bolt just passed into a sealed section of the engine but it was actually a U shape section. In hindsight if I'd sprayed under there (I just sprayed around the ends) with lots of plus-gas it may have shifted.

Druid

[thefatman]

Do you want the frame? I had the same thing with the swingarm bolt on my vfr, chopped the frame apart as the swingarm was more important to me. :

[fastdruid]

WD40 (before, after and during)

PLEASE PUT THE CAN DOWN AND STEP AWAY FROM THE WD40.

Seriously, get some Plus-gas and forget the WD40 for shifting bolts, sure it's better than nothing but it was designed to disperse water not to penetrate and loosen stubborn bolts.

Druid

[billysbones]

is it an allen head bolt?

is it now chewed up a bit?

if so, buy some realatively cheap easy outs. get the appropriate size and bash it into the remains of the allen head.

then use preferably a tap wrench to turn unscrew the bolt. you can use an adjustable spanner to turn it, but its a bit more hit and miss.

easy outs (or screw extractors) here:

http://www.cromwell.co.uk/KEN0751160K

[fastdruid]

is it an allen head bolt?

is it now chewed up a bit?

i

If it's anything like mine the allen bit started to twist before the head started to round and TBH you'd snap an easy out if it's anywhere near as tight as mine was.

Very bad bit of design IMO (along with certain other bits of the older VFR750's I could mention).

Druid

[widdy]

Cheers guys

i was hoping that a good soaking in WD40 or now Plusgas would let me drift it out from the other end, don't rearly want to destroy the frame.

i'd upload piccys but the uploads keep failing and i can't make them any smaller than 14k

[Mark/Foggy]

Sorry about the previous fumble fingered f*witted reply and getting tied up at work

Word of caution, got roped into helping a young un on some mad naked japanese VFR400 import that neded a new exhaust, same sort of generation. xhaust studs that I could get to, were easy enough to drill/extract, but the rear ones required engine out. The main frame top bolts wouldn't shift so we needed to drill these as well, or rather that seemed the best idea once they were wrecked. These are high tensile rolled bolts and harden dramatically when you stick a hot drill down em. We ended up shipping the remains down to his mum's works (an aircraft machine shop facility, god you could love her) to that the blind bolt could be machined out in a mill!!!

[widdy]

Sorry about the previous fumble fingered f*witted reply and getting tied up at work

Word of caution, got roped into helping a young un on some mad naked japanese VFR400 import that neded a new exhaust, same sort of generation. xhaust studs that I could get to, were easy enough to drill/extract, but the rear ones required engine out. The main frame top bolts wouldn't shift so we needed to drill these as well, or rather that seemed the best idea once they were wrecked. These are high tensile rolled bolts and harden dramatically when you stick a hot drill down em. We ended up shipping the remains down to his mum's works (an aircraft machine shop facility, god you could love her) to that the blind bolt could be machined out in a mill!!!

think it should be ok, all the other engine mount bolts loosened up easily, just the last rear one, i did read on another post that the bolt slips into a locknut typr arrangement that compresses the frame to the engine as it tightens, but if this was the case why the ordinary hex bolt on the other end, i'm sure the bolts not threaded on the head side (from looking at the haynes manuel)

it should just drift out with the plusgas and a big hammer, fingers crossed

[lorenzo]

I'm not 100% certina on the VFR, but on othe r hondas of a similar era the bit you're referring to isn't a solid tube through the engine, there's a big cutout bit underneath on the bottom of the engine, get squirting your lube in there too. Then heat the b'jesus out of the back of the engine, then simply twist the little fecker out...

[fastdruid]

I'm not 100% certina on the VFR, but on othe r hondas of a similar era the bit you're referring to isn't a solid tube through the engine, there's a big cutout bit underneath on the bottom of the engine, get squirting your lube in there too. Then heat the b'jesus out of the back of the engine, then simply twist the little fecker out...

I've just had a look at the microfiche and it looks like identical to the NC30/35 in which case the 'allen' head is just for tightening the adjuster in.

Does it look like this lower engine bolt?

If so then remove the nut from the LHS, spray lots of plusgas into the U where the bolt passes through the engine (you need to look up and towards the front of the bike to even see it) and it should just drift out.

Then unscrew the adjuster.

Druid

[widdy]

Yep looks just like that, although no where near as clean .

i've already plusgassesd several times, think i may have to strip down to frame and engine and turn on its head so the plusgass can rearly work, it's stuck tight

More plus gas please and pass me the Timmy-

it's out it's out, plusgased it, put the nut back on and tightened it untilll it cracked then more plus gass and a big hammer and it came out

project muppet racer is a go