chocyboy Posted January 23, 2021 Report Share Posted January 23, 2021 Having some electrical issues with the Mille (yeah, yeah, I know Aprilia innit) I have a lipo battery that reads 13.15v when it’s off the bike but when I connect it up and flick the ignition on it drops to 11.5v and won’t even think about spinning over. Leave it with the ignition off for five minutes and it reads 12.7v but still won’t spin the fucker. Take it off the bike and it reads 13.15v again after a few minutes? Is it shagged? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bram43 Posted January 23, 2021 Report Share Posted January 23, 2021 (edited) I had the same issue with the battery on the MV during the summer...I replaced the battery and the problem went away. The battery should (if I remember correctly) charge at 13.5, so 13.15 is under that and probably not enough for the mighty Aprilia. Edited January 23, 2021 by Bram43 Battery and not batter. Batteries don’t run on jizz 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chocyboy Posted January 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2021 Back to a normal battery it is then. It’s only about 14 months old and I can’t be arsed getting a different charger to look after it on a bike that only sees occasional use. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zedsdead Posted January 24, 2021 Report Share Posted January 24, 2021 (edited) There are lots of cases of lipo batteries not coping too well with big twins. The moment the battery is off or the draw increases due to higher resistances they seem to struggle. Huge discussions about it over here on KTM forums and the like. People like lipo for their ability to be left for months without issue, like the six months or so over winter. But although they hold charge they seem to lose grunt the moment the system they are trying to drive starts to lose its efficiency. I only ever you good old lead acid on the big KTM, no issues with a quality make and I always get the highest CCA battery I can. That helps with the initial spin over. As others have said get some good quality starter cables between those components. Make sure all connections are clean and secure, then refit a good standard battery. Edited January 24, 2021 by zedsdead Bad spellinkk 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Von Posted January 25, 2021 Report Share Posted January 25, 2021 Put an ammeter in circuit if you can, there may be current draw being drawn by something. Also measure resistance across main contactor solenoid, they arc like a bastard hurling a starter over on a big twin increasing resistance. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wavey Posted January 26, 2021 Report Share Posted January 26, 2021 When I got the big ugly tuono it's the first bike I've had in years that I bought a lead acid battery for. Apparently due to the crap charging systems they tend to over charge and kill lithiums for fun. If it's got a bad cell it'd explain the OK voltage with no load but then the weak cell can't cope with load applied. Probably goosed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chocyboy Posted January 26, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2021 Tonight it gave out 3.5v to the trusty multimeter so we know it’s dead. Lead acid and updated leads ordered from Griff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.