fork seals

[nigel.ted]

As above......can you change the seals on a ntv650 without splitting the leg/tube???

Have'nt got the tools to do it meself don't really want to pay a dealer to do it,bikes not worth alot anyway!!!!!

leaking too bad for me to try and get it through MOT.

Thanks nigel

[blow_away]

No Nige, you gotta dismantle the forks to change the seals

<cough>

lift the dust seal and fill it with tissue immediately prior to the MOT

<you ain't seen me roight?>

[Tomfoolery]

I had to take the fork off to change it, but I didn't dismantle the fork itself. Just dug the old one(s) out, cleaned the tube and pressed the news ones in. Seems to work.

[nigel.ted]

I had to take the fork off to change it, but I didn't dismantle the fork itself. Just dug the old one(s) out, cleaned the tube and pressed the news ones in. Seems to work.

Thats the plan tom(thumbs up)!

got manual anyway says just lifyt the dust seal remove circlip hey presto

Alan,might do that later to see how long it takes for the oil to weep past!!!!!!!

best idea at mo...............

cheers nigel

[deviant]

Have'nt got the tools to do it meself

eh? I presume they're fairly cheap and simple RWU forks? In which case once you've got the fork out of the bike you probably only need a spanner (for the fork cap) and an allen key (for the damper rod) to take the things apart.

[foo]

eh? I presume they're fairly cheap and simple RWU forks? In which case once you've got the fork out of the bike you probably only need a spanner (for the fork cap) and an allen key (for the damper rod) to take the things apart.

You're quite right about that. I did the ones on the Bros I bought from Lorenzo. You might add a pair of circlip pliers if you were feeling flash, but the end of a screwdriver does just as well.

[fastdruid]

eh? I presume they're fairly cheap and simple RWU forks? In which case once you've got the fork out of the bike you probably only need a spanner (for the fork cap) and an allen key (for the damper rod) to take the things apart.

Hahahahahaha ha.

That's the theory, when the damper rod bolt just spins you may be reconsidering matters!

Druid

[eddie]

Hahahahahaha ha.

That's the theory, when the damper rod bolt just spins you may be reconsidering matters!

Druid

Yeh, bugger that. Drop fork leg out of yokes, carefully prise out dust seal (if fitted), remove circlip, "dig out" old seal with screwdriver etc,taking care not to stab yourself or gouge the leg etc. Slide off over fork leg, replace with new seal, use a bit of plastic waste pipe from diy shop (or similar that fits over fork leg) to tap new seal into position, re fit circlip and dust seal. Job done. Piece of p*ss.......................

[fastdruid]

Self tappers into the top of the seal and use pliers wrapped in tape (to prevent scratching the tubes) to pull out.

Druid

[foo]

The choice is yours. I'd have a go at doing it the right way personally, before bothering to work out how to bodge it. Take the wheel out, and the forks out of the yokes. Turn them upside down and give the Allen bolt a good spraying with plus-gas --don't bother with anything else, plus gas works.

Go and have a cup of tea. When you come back, put the Allen key in, and tap it gently with a mallet to shock it loose. Just loosen if, don't unscrew it all the way. NOW you can turn the forks up, and loosen the caps --nip the stanchion up in the yokes if you have problems with it turning.

You can now pull the forks apart, have a good look inside them, clean out all the horrible old shite that will have collected at the bottom, and fit new seals --use a plastic bag over the top of the stanchion tube when you slide the seal on, so you won't damage the lip of it; and a splash of fork oil never did any harm either. When you put them back together, don't forget a new copper washer for the Allen bolt, and make sure you get the spacers at the top the right way up --there is a right and a wrong way, as I found.

[blow_away]

+ 1 on Foo's wise words

It won't take you much longer to do the job properly, and bodging the seals outs risks damaging the chrome of the fork slider.

This bike is going to be your commuter for along time, treat it right

[billysbones]

The choice is yours. I'd have a go at doing it the right way personally, before bothering to work out how to bodge it. Take the wheel out, and the forks out of the yokes. Turn them upside down and give the Allen bolt a good spraying with plus-gas --don't bother with anything else, plus gas works.

Go and have a cup of tea. When you come back, put the Allen key in, and tap it gently with a mallet to shock it loose. Just loosen if, don't unscrew it all the way. NOW you can turn the forks up, and loosen the caps --nip the stanchion up in the yokes if you have problems with it turning.

You can now pull the forks apart, have a good look inside them, clean out all the horrible old shite that will have collected at the bottom, and fit new seals --use a plastic bag over the top of the stanchion tube when you slide the seal on, so you won't damage the lip of it; and a splash of fork oil never did any harm either. When you put them back together, don't forget a new copper washer for the Allen bolt, and make sure you get the spacers at the top the right way up --there is a right and a wrong way, as I found.

What he said.

[eddie]

What he said.

Choice is yours. Way I described is "no bodge" its just quicker and less hassle. But if you want to clean forks out as well, then you have no choice but to take forks apart..........

[nigel.ted]

Cheers foo....you are right and it is my long term commuter,just realised i have acess to air tools at work and i have a manual...even i cant fuck it up!!!!!

or can i?????

nigel

Sorry thanks to every one else

[foo]

i have acess to air tools at work and i have a manual...even i cant fuck it up!!!!!

Sorry thanks to every one else

It's a piece of piss Nigel. I did the forks on my Bros, and it was an easy job. If you do things in the right order, you'll have no problem at all --especially if you've air tools, you can guarantee to get that allen bolt out. People make it out to be a much harder job than it really is, but you have to be really hamfisted to damage anything. The most important thing is to make sure it's all spotlessly clean before you put it together again.

You'll be fine, I have no doubt.

[nigel.ted]

Update...took the ntv for mot today..........it passed just

packed the seal with bog roll it worked a treat!!!!

But tester found a bit of play in the rear shock top mount says it needs a new bush,but according to local dealer it don't come seperate from shock.

fook that

will have a look at work in the week too me it looks like its a sleeve thats worn, will try to get me boss to make a new one.

Thanks peeps

nigel