scooble Posted August 29, 2012 Report Share Posted August 29, 2012 this is the condition of both my pistons in my KR1 that have done one and a half track days and one race day. I've seen pistons develop a thin even coating before, but not the kind of grainy appearance you see here. I am inclined to think that its not running quite right, but not quite sure what the problem is. As a bit of background, here is what I am running; the last meeting, I was running Motul 800 at 30:1 and prior to that i was running Castrol XR77 also at 30:1. Comp ratio = 7:1 the plugs I was using was B10 Iridium plugs and have only been used for 1 trackday and one meeting. The last meeting, I was running 60% Tesco 99 octance and 40% Avgas, prior to that, I was using Tesco 99 and octane booster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rs125plus Posted August 29, 2012 Report Share Posted August 29, 2012 that looks to be running hot and lean http://www.smellofdeath.com/lloydy/piston_diag_guide.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2T Institue Posted August 29, 2012 Report Share Posted August 29, 2012 Trisha looks a tad rich and could do with some advance, you should have a tan/brown 'map of Australia' on the crown Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooble Posted August 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2012 so a black map of the Hayling Island I assume is not good then. Timing is fixed unfortunatley, although I do now have a KR1S CDI which has a little more top end advance. AFR according to the dyno was about 12:1. I did suspect a blown crank seal, however, I gave the bottom end to Bob Farnham to inspect, but he said as far as he could see, the seals looked Ok. I've simply put the cases back together now making sure that all mating surfaces had a good even coating of three bond on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2T Institue Posted August 29, 2012 Report Share Posted August 29, 2012 AFR readings are basicaly useless get yourself a EGT probe then you can go to the track or dyno and get some hard data. It's not lean or hot, reading a wash pattern takes a bit of experience, but this is how I learned about it. If the piston is hot it will 'char' the oil that comes into contact with it, the higher the temps the closer to grey(death ash) you get the lower the temp the blacker the charring will be.Similar to a plug. The clear unchared parts of the piston have been cooled by intake charge so no charring occurs there. Which will idealy be for about 5mm in front of all the ports. You should have 'shadows' from the bridges between the ports. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erskimo Posted August 29, 2012 Report Share Posted August 29, 2012 also if i may put another thought into the chat, doesnt iridium & avgas not work that well together, this is not to take away any of whats been said as i agree with the above answers........i just run ye old normal plugs & replace more often when using avgas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRMotard Posted September 3, 2012 Report Share Posted September 3, 2012 first Iv heard of 100LL fuel causing iridiums to foul. Have a read through the ultra light forums, they use commonly use iridiums Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erskimo Posted September 3, 2012 Report Share Posted September 3, 2012 100LL ?. . . . . i have no idea what that is, no im talking about 130 avgas (walk into airport will jerry can & cash) lead can give plugs a hard time , i have had drames with iridium plugs & avgas so i stay with boring old type plugs, as for ultra lights arnt they the things that fall out of the sky with more regularty than most people have hot dinners (this could be due to fouled plugs, but more due to dodgy built so called flying machines) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRMotard Posted September 7, 2012 Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 In almost all developed countries, 100LL (100 low lead) is the most commonly available AVGAS. 100/130AVGAS which I beleive is what you are calling 130 avgas is being fased out as it contained high levels of lead, it is only sold in a few remaining airports. even if the old airport bowser says 130, Id question them what they are actually selling. I would be very surprised if an airport didnt sell SHELL 100LL as it is so very common. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erskimo Posted September 7, 2012 Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 In almost all developed countries, 100LL (100 low lead) is the most commonly available AVGAS. 100/130AVGAS which I beleive is what you are calling 130 avgas is being fased out as it contained high levels of lead, it is only sold in a few remaining airports. even if the old airport bowser says 130, Id question them what they are actually selling. I would be very surprised if an airport didnt sell SHELL 100LL as it is so very common. yes thats the stuff it has lead (you must remember this isnt euro & thing take longer to change here), as the old bikes like a bit of lead, ive been able to keep getting it (but by the sound of what your saying this may change) even when mixing it at 50/50 or even 25/75 it will still munch through a set of plugs, but i dont mind changing them around about each 5th tank full Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wazrs257 Posted October 20, 2012 Report Share Posted October 20, 2012 Any opinions as to how well or not, this is running? I've no idea of the total run time, but I've done 2 track days and a couple of hundred road miles on it, plus how ever many hours it had been used for before I bought the engine! I've heard people say Wisecos are a pain due to the extra bore clearance they require, but I've had no problems with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2T Institue Posted October 20, 2012 Report Share Posted October 20, 2012 Looks to be running OK but could run a lot better. Transfer flow does not look very good, if it was you would see clear portions of the piston in front the port windows. I think this is because of the crap transfer ducts, looks to need a bigger radius on the inner walls of the ducts. Especialy at the intersection of the transfer ducts and the bore(2), inner wall is flat(1) and we have some sharp edges (3) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRMotard Posted October 21, 2012 Report Share Posted October 21, 2012 sounds like someone needs a tube of JB weld and some butylene rubber strips its almost as fun as fingerpainting! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2T Institue Posted October 22, 2012 Report Share Posted October 22, 2012 sounds like someone needs a tube of JB weld and some butylene rubber strips its almost as fun as fingerpainting! They should have used JB on the Space Shuttle would have held them tiles on no problems Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wazrs257 Posted October 22, 2012 Report Share Posted October 22, 2012 Looks to be running OK but could run a lot better. Transfer flow does not look very good, if it was you would see clear portions of the piston in front the port windows. I think this is because of the crap transfer ducts, looks to need a bigger radius on the inner walls of the ducts. Especialy at the intersection of the transfer ducts and the bore(2), inner wall is flat(1) and we have some sharp edges (3) That's a spare cylinder with, as far as I know, standard porting. The one responsible for the piston photo I posted, has been ported but as it's still attatched to the rest of the motor, I've no idea what the inlet side of the transfer ports looks like! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CRMotard Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 That's a spare cylinder with, as far as I know, standard porting. The one responsible for the piston photo I posted, has been ported but as it's still attatched to the rest of the motor, I've no idea what the inlet side of the transfer ports looks like! If it was ported more than 5-10 years ago expect some of us to cringe when we see knife edges and polished surfaces haha but again its all fixable and can be done at home with some assistance from someone who knows their stuff (2t institute) to guide you on the correct shape. and if you completely balls it up you can easily remove the JB weld with the die-grinder, like a hot knife through butter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wazrs257 Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 I'm hoping not to see knife-edging! But you never know! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erskimo Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 I'm hoping not to see knife-edging! But you never know! put the knife down Warzrs275, it doesnt have to end like this we dont need a sad emo.................sorry had a odd week & a double oddity day (did run the quickcut on castrol R30 though, hp was down but the smell was sweet) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wazrs257 Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 put the knife down Warzrs275, it doesnt have to end like this we dont need a sad emo.................sorry had a odd week & a double oddity day (did run the quickcut on castrol R30 though, hp was down but the smell was sweet) 275? Big bore kits are cheating! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2T Institue Posted October 24, 2012 Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 I'm hoping not to see knife-edging! But you never know! Be amazed at how many still think that crap is 'port work' ............not that I ever did that at all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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