chrisfogarty Posted February 4, 2012 Report Share Posted February 4, 2012 Fuckin Batteries fucked on the Gixxer any of the PB massive got any good advise on a decent battery, my bike has a datatool alarm on it only had the bike a month its garaged but the garage has no power so unable to keep it on a trickle charge any advice or suggestions wellcomed also what about maintenance as youve probably guessed im shite with spanners and all that bollox so keep it simple for me as im a div, u know the craic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hipringle Posted February 4, 2012 Report Share Posted February 4, 2012 Why not get a secondhand car battery & connect that to the bike battery via leads after you charge it up, it,ll last for months then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisfogarty Posted February 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2012 Why not get a secondhand car battery & connect that to the bike battery via leads after you charge it up, it,ll last for months then. is that safe and will it work ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignige Posted February 4, 2012 Report Share Posted February 4, 2012 It'll work if the car battery is in good condition! Solar powered charger? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
overload Posted February 5, 2012 Report Share Posted February 5, 2012 Ditch the shitty alarm and your battery woes will be over in an instant. After you got a new one that is! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisfogarty Posted February 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2012 Yh good idea I don't think I'll do it though best to get someone who knows what there doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cibbersicks Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Ditch the shitty alarm and your battery woes will be over in an instant. After you got a new one that is! This ^ Bike alarms.... fuckin' useless wastes of money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kermit Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 I have the same problem, shitty Datatool alarm and a bike that's used very little. I put the alarm in service mode and remove the fuse. I disconnect the earth lead as well, just for good measure. Then when I want to use the bike I connect the earth lead, replace the fuse and she's good to go. Takes less than a minute. I'll get the bloody alarm removed, but having paid for the alarm to be removed from the Hornet, I'm baulking at paying to have it done to a second bike. Tight? me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug_R1 Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 I got fed up with the Datatool on my 636 and removed it, only to find it had been installed so poorly it's only function was as a tilt sensor, and a rider's seat removal warning. It was only spliced into the power feed and the indicators, and the number plate light for some bizarre reason. I expected a link to the fuel pump or ignition circuit at the very least. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisfogarty Posted February 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 I have the same problem, shitty Datatool alarm and a bike that's used very little. I put the alarm in service mode and remove the fuse. I disconnect the earth lead as well, just for good measure. Then when I want to use the bike I connect the earth lead, replace the fuse and she's good to go. Takes less than a minute. I'll get the bloody alarm removed, but having paid for the alarm to be removed from the Hornet, I'm baulking at paying to have it done to a second bike. Tight? me! How much will it cost do disconect the fuckin thing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kermit Posted February 7, 2012 Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 How much will it cost do disconect the fuckin thing My local auto electrician charge me £60 to remove the alarm from the Hornet. Oddly enough, hes said it was a pleasure to work on. The alarm had been installed correctly by someone who did the job properly and was therefore straightforward enough to remove. I'd read quite a biot on the web about removing it myself, but I chickened out and got him to do the work. Sold the 2 key fobs for £30 on ebay to offset some of the cost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisfogarty Posted February 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 My local auto electrician charge me £60 to remove the alarm from the Hornet. Oddly enough, hes said it was a pleasure to work on. The alarm had been installed correctly by someone who did the job properly and was therefore straightforward enough to remove. I'd read quite a biot on the web about removing it myself, but I chickened out and got him to do the work. Sold the 2 key fobs for £30 on ebay to offset some of the cost. good advice that, i,ll have to look into getiing rid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mohawk Posted February 7, 2012 Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 I've fitted a LiFe battery to my VFR800. The original one was a 4A/hr Race one at £129, which worked but did not like sitting for long periods of inactivity, would be below cranking power in 10 days. So I found an alternative, How about a nice 10A/hr one for £75 ? You have to do a bit of DIY assembly, but anyone can fit a screw right !? http://eclipsebikes....0ah-p-1011.html You need 4 of those, 4 x plastic holders & 5 x connector plates. Nominal Voltage is 3.2v (or 12.8v assembled) charge voltage is 3.65v (or 14.7v assembled). These work great, I've had mine fitted for 4 months now & even with a month sitting still it started the engine no problem. The standard battery weighs 4.35kg, this assembled weighs 1.4Kg, so saves nearly 3Kg ! The only fiddling required is to get it to fit, is to fit it in the battery tray. I choose the simple route which is to assemble the pack & use two of the connector plates to mount as wings, to allow connection to the existing battery terminal wires. This requires the removal of the battery cover flap as the new battery sits higher at the front. The battery tray is multi-part, so wants to fall apart if you use foam to pad out the battery fit, so you need to address that. I just cut the flap off along the folding seam & drilled a couple of holes in the corners of the tray to allow cable ties to hold the corners together. The more complex fit would be to lay the new battery on its side then it will fit in the tray, but the connectors won't reach, so you would need to extend the earth lead. I might do that next, now that I know it works OK. When you assemble the pack which takes 3 of the connector plates, remember + to - for series connections. Look at the current battery & orient the + terminal at the top rear left. The plastic holders are assembled in pairs & then the cells slid in to the bottom set, then turn the top set 90 degrees to the bottom set & slide on to the top of the cells. The metal connectors are added front to rear at the bottom & one is added across the front of the top pair of cells, this leaves the top of the rear two cells clear, add a connector plate to each sticking out to the side towards the battery leads, I insulated the middle part of all these plates with a couple of wraps of insulation tape. I used some lone thing cable ties around the outside of the pack top to bottom to lock the plastic holders in place & covered the exposed ends of the pack with insulation tape. You might have to flatten the battery lead connectors to line the holes up & use the old batteries bolts to bolt the leads on. Job done. The answer to cheap LiFe batteries for bikes Have fun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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