andysp1 Posted December 18, 2008 Report Posted December 18, 2008 word up bad people! i have heard about something that you can do to a flap in the air intake on the sp1. can someone please explain. I have k+n filters and blue flame exhaust and looking for that extra bit. I have also just bought a nitro x power commander of ebay. only cost 25 squid and was wondering if they are any good and what setting would be the best. As always your comments will be greatfully recived. cheers
Rainer Posted December 18, 2008 Report Posted December 18, 2008 The previous owner of my bike had already done the mod when I bought the bike. He removed some gubbins from the intake and covered up the hole with a carbon fibre plate. I'm not sure how helpful this photo will be to you as I haven't seen what it's like unmodded, but it might make some sense if yours is still standard. Also see here
andysp1 Posted December 18, 2008 Author Report Posted December 18, 2008 The previous owner of my bike had already done the mod when I bought the bike. He removed some gubbins from the intake and covered up the hole with a carbon fibre plate. I'm not sure how helpful this photo will be to you as I haven't seen what it's like unmodded, but it might make some sense if yours is still standard. Also see here cheers mate. I thought it might have something to do with that. Ill see if anyone else comes up with anything. Thanks again
andysp1 Posted December 18, 2008 Author Report Posted December 18, 2008 thanks mate . i thought it might have something to do with that think. Ill see if anyone else comes up with anything else.
vtr-1000 Posted December 18, 2008 Report Posted December 18, 2008 twist the diaphragm below the idiot lights anti clockwise,it will pop out,unhook from flap.think there's a circlip that holds the pin for the flap,remove and pull pin out.pull flap out.trace tube back to solenoid valve(behind oil cooler and front coil-right side of bike)disconnect wiring and remove(makes a good paper weight)just below front engine mount is vacuum tank,remove and discard,trace tube back to below headstock,cut back and insert suitable bolt to blank off(4mm) make sure it seals this tube or you'll have an intake leak.you may have to loosen right rad to gain access.all thats left to do now is cover hole left in snorkel.cut the lid from an oil container so as you're left with a disc and simply silicone on.jobbed don't know anything about £25 gizmo.have a pcr111 myself.save some pennies and buy one-well worth it,or a pcr11,just as good,but you can't hook it up to a lap top(cheaper though) ps the flap that you mention is to get the bike through drive by noise tests-it closes at about 4,500rpm and restricts about two thirds of the intake!what a load of bollocks!! your next free mod is to remove the secondry air supply system-more bollocks! pps,can help with most sp probs
andysp1 Posted December 18, 2008 Author Report Posted December 18, 2008 VTR-1000. you are a legend! Im gonna try that out over the weekend. So how do i get that secondary air thing out that restricts the noise level? And do you know much about the 5 mm spacer you should put under the back shock?? Some say do it others say dont, i have been using a 180 boot but i was told that putting the original 190 on makes it turn quicker. .
Liamo Posted December 18, 2008 Report Posted December 18, 2008 What was this valve thing supposed to do anyway? Emmissions an' shit?
vtr-1000 Posted December 19, 2008 Report Posted December 19, 2008 VTR-1000. you are a legend! Im gonna try that out over the weekend. So how do i get that secondary air thing out that restricts the noise level? And do you know much about the 5 mm spacer you should put under the back shock?? Some say do it others say dont, i have been using a 180 boot but i was told that putting the original 190 on makes it turn quicker. . its the flapper valve in the snorkel you're removing that restricts the intake noise level! and intake volume. the secondry air thing is a seperate system that bleeds air into the exhaust to help on emissions. go with the spacer,it will help the bike turn easier,you can also raise the forks in the yokes to help.don't go mad,a bit at a time. the 180 is taller than a 190 so helps again on tuning,i run a 190-55 or60 if i can get them. weight is the enemy-if your not using it,junk it cheap pcr111 on fleabay,ends tomorrow-item no.110326953065
vtr-1000 Posted December 19, 2008 Report Posted December 19, 2008 Noise emmissions. There's no real need to take everything off.....just pull the vacuum tube off, stick a self-tapping screw into it and jobs jobbed. hey Zakalwe,any chance of letting that little clip run for a few more seconds,i'm nearly there!
andysp1 Posted December 21, 2008 Author Report Posted December 21, 2008 just finished sorting out the flapper think. The bike starts but ive not tested out on the road yet, too cold. Thanks for all your help people.
vtr-1000 Posted December 21, 2008 Report Posted December 21, 2008 just finished sorting out the flapper think. The bike starts but ive not tested out on the road yet, too cold. Thanks for all your help people. big punch in mid range-much fun!
BUB Posted December 21, 2008 Report Posted December 21, 2008 http://www.rc51.org/valve.htm Just go to RC51.org All you will ever need to know about SPs is there Removing the PAIR clean air system won't give you any power, it just saves a bit of weight and clears clutter. PC111r with a custom map is what you want and a 42T rear sprocket. My bike had a Leo Vince full system and a PC111r, that was it.
franky Posted December 23, 2008 Report Posted December 23, 2008 best mods are big airbox/full system and a decent powercommander map. you'll make an honest 130bhp at the wheel but be about 15bhp in the midrange.
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